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In the matter of the Disgusting Bridgeport.

@someidiot
Ho-kay... After a long and arduous journey, sumbitch is in my garage.
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Sorry my friend! Please don’t send her home!

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Spitballing but can you drill down through the holes in the base, through the pallet, to the floor? Then put bolts down through the holes, with a nut under the top side of the pallet. Cinch the bolt up to take the weight off the pallet. Then sawzall the pallet away and lower the mill via the threads. After the bolts are free, a bar should let you get the nuts remains of the pallet out from under?

Craig
 
trlvn said:
Spitballing but can you drill down through the holes in the base, through the pallet, to the floor? Then put bolts down through the holes, with a nut under the top side of the pallet. Cinch the bolt up to take the weight off the pallet. Then sawzall the pallet away and lower the mill via the threads. After the bolts are free, a bar should let you get the nuts remains of the pallet out from under?

Craig
Click to expand...

That seems doable. One question, though: How much of a dent in the concrete is 500lb on top of a 5/8" bolt going to make? I don't think I have a reason to be worried, but I don't think the slab is terribly thick, as it was poured with hydronics over styrofoam.
 
someidiot said:
"Machine jack" appears to be a very broad category. Can you direct me to the style you're thinking of?
Click to expand...

Here are some Amazon ones. Typically sold in pairs. You would need 3 pairs. But it's a good project to make your own.


someidiot said:
Actual Bridgeport, not a clone. The holes are there; just checked - 9/16" or 5/8", unthreaded.
Click to expand...

If you have that, you have this problem kicked. You don't need machine jacks. A set of 4 bolts threaded long enough to reach the floor will lift the mill above the pallet so you can remove the pallet and then simply lower the mill to the floor. They can also be used to lift it to put pipes underneath it to roll it into place, or to lift it enough to use a prybar to move it into position.

The end of the bolts can be slightly rounded - they won't hurt regular concrete. Cheap shit concrete maybe.

If you are worried about it, make feet for them.

My BP Clone is sitting on those bolts permanently.
 
Susquatch said:
Here are some Amazon ones. Typically sold in pairs. You would need 3 pairs. But it's a good project to make your own.

Click to expand...

Ah, okay - just little "aw, cute!" screw jacks. Those ones are pricey, but Starrett. I'm sure there are adequate cheapies.

Susquatch said:
If you have that, you have this problem kicked. You don't need machine jacks. A set of 4 bolts threaded long enough to reach the floor will lift the mill above the pallet so you can remove the pallet and then simply lower the mill to the floor. They can also be used to lift it to put pipes underneath it to roll it into place, or to lift it enough to use a prybar to move it into position.

The end of the bolts can be slightly rounded - they won't hurt regular concrete. Cheap shit concrete maybe.

If you are worried about it, make feet for them.

My BP Clone is sitting on those bolts permanently.
Click to expand...

As I said, I checked the tops of the holes and there aren't any threads. Doesn't mean there aren't any down at the bottom.

And I have been thinking of leveling feet because the slab was poured with a bit of a drainage slope (downhill is to the operator's right), so if I can find something sufficiently heavy duty they might aid in getting it off the pallet too.
 
someidiot said:
Doesn't mean there aren't any down at the bottom.
Click to expand...

Might be. Need to check. If not, cast iron is relatively easy to tap. Just make sure the tap is square with the hole. For cast iron, I am a fan of half turn in, 1/4 out, 1/2 in, 1/4 out etc.

Pretty sure my BP Clone has 3/4" bolts. And ya, handy as hell for levelling.
 
I'm not clear how the recommended jack bolts are going to go through the pallet to contact the floor? A picture of mill on pallet would be super useful here.

Maybe a bit more metal involved but just throwing out these low profile lifting bars used my Modern Tool to get machines on & off pallet jacks with one guy. In this case the (black) base frame was pre-attached at their shop because it was easier there. But you can see the basic principle - slide lifting cross bars in, put some scrap steel under the bolts for friction reduction & kinder to the concrete, jack the bolts & go from there. The point is nice gradual lifting side to side. You dont want the maching canted at much of an angle, they are very top heavy. Also note the scrap carpet between the machine base & pallet, ideally you want some stiction there. Also give some thought to a mill stand either now or in the future. The right working height is important & you get levelling & vibration dampening with basic machine pad mounts, homebrew pucks or purchased. But dont make the same mistake I made where the puck spacing was a frustrating 1/2" too close for the narrow style pallet jack to get in directly, which makes moving it with frame + feet intact that much easier. I didnt know much about pallet jacks but they are rentable in regular or slim. <headslap emoji>

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