how I spent my sunday....

[quitereal]

All this woodworking talk has got me so nostalgic *sniff*

Made a crude sled to surface a workbench once upon a time, but yeah a cnc with a spoilboard bit would be nice to flatten stuff.
We used to just work around planer snipe by planning to cut 3 inches off each end. Cut your pieces to length after the planing op. Chasing a cure for it seemed so quixotic

 

[Elektrishun]

Looks like a great project. Would like to see the table after the finish is applied.

When I served my apprenticeship we toured the Electrahome factory in Kitchener through trade school. The day we toured there were dozens of the old school cabinet televisions on an assembly line. Under each television was small piles of sawdust. The load of mahogany they were using was infested. They had every suit out in the factory trying to figure out what to do. Not sure if they fumigated or scrapped all of these television cabinets.

A few years ago reclaimed barn wood was in. I had a client that wanted a barn board dining room table made. We went to a local barn board wholesaler and he picked out some 3” thick hemlock planks 10 feet long. While he was picking out the boards the supplier told us they came out of a stall in an old dairy barn. Long story short I built him the table and I was chatting with him and mentioned for having been S#it and pi$$ed on for 100 years they came out beautiful. It had never even occurred to him barn wood would have that on it. Lol. He made me promise not to tell his wife!
Martin

I read a story in a woodworking book about a guy who was commissioned by a museum to build a piece of furniture that looked as authentically old as other pieces in the collection. In order to do so he said he needed source material that was already old, really old, which apparently was difficult to find at the time. So he took what wood he could find and buried it under well-aged manure. I forget how long it remained buried but by the time it was uncovered the manure had aged the wood sufficiently that it now had the look he required.

 

[TorontoBuilder]

All this woodworking talk has got me so nostalgic *sniff*
View attachment 55711
Made a crude sled to surface a workbench once upon a time, but yeah a cnc with a spoilboard bit would be nice to flatten stuff.
We used to just work around planer snipe by planning to cut 3 inches off each end. Cut your pieces to length after the planing op. Chasing a cure for it seemed so quixotic

exactly how we plan to deal with snipe... but it seems like such a waste

 

[Elektrishun]

Ammonia fuming wood is really a thing, works well on red oak, they used to notice it in barns because of the pee lol. Again better than modern stains and brings out the grain. Penetrates deep. I bet it was a beautiful table

Many years ago I wanted to build a keepsake chest for my son using solid maple. But I wanted the finished product to have an aged look, where it has the deep amber patina. I found an article in a woodworking magazine where it gave the details of how to artificially age maple with diluted Nitric Acid and a heating gun. I got the Nitric Acid from the Saskatchewan Research Council. Thinking back it seems odd that the SRC gave me a bottle of Nitric Acid.

I followed the instructions in the magazine and it worked really well. All the maple pieces had a really nice amber patina. About a week later I noticed that all the metal tools in my shop had a patina too - rust. So that ended the project. It freaked me out a little.

What freaked me out even more was when the city had a hazardous materials drop-off day scheduled through a local business. Perfect time to get rid of that bottle of acid. Had it in the trunk of my car with other items. Got my vehicle in line with a large number of other vehicles waiting to drop-off their paint, etc. As I got closer I noticed an employee with a two way radio talking to the people ahead of me asking what they had to drop off. When he got to me I told him what I had and he got a little excited when I mentioned the Nitric Acid. He called ahead and then had me fast tracked ahead of everyone else. In this instance the Nitric Acid was kinda like a fast pass for the rides at Disney.

 

[Martin w]

Laminate a piece of plywood or particle core with a piece of smooth Formica. Screw a wood cleat to catch the planer edge. Use this as the piece all your wood slides on going thru. This will stop most of the snipe. You can also lessen the infeed and outfeed roller springs on some larger planers, but having one continuous table on the bottom works the best, especially for small pieces. Also, as the piece exits the planer lift up on the material. Going in the planer push down on the work piece.

exactly how we plan to deal with snipe... but it seems like such a waste

 

[jcdammeyer]

Laminate a piece of plywood or particle core with a piece of smooth Formica. Screw a wood cleat to catch the planer edge. Use this as the piece all your wood slides on going thru. This will stop most of the snipe. You can also lessen the infeed and outfeed roller springs on some larger planers, but having one continuous table on the bottom works the best, especially for small pieces. Also, as the piece exits the planer lift up on the material. Going in the planer push down on the work piece.

I'm not sure I understand how to catch the planer edge.

 

[Martin w]

I'm not sure I understand how to catch the planer edge.

If it is a 20” planer use a 20” wide piece of plywood about 3-4’ long with a 3/4” x 3/4” solid piece glued or screwed on one end to prevent the piece from just sliding thru the planer. It only acts as a bridge so the rollers can’t push your workpiece down causing snipe. It has worked on every planer I’ve ever owned or used. Doesn’t eliminate all of the snipe but makes it less and a more useable piece.
Also use a laminate that is glossy so you have less friction. I also rub it with paraffin intermittently. It works best for planing multiple pieces at once or small pieces like glass stop and such.
Martin

 

[mickeyf]

my brother Tom stopping the cart with the planer from moving.

A couple of months back I put together a flip table (planer on one side, disc/belt sander on the other) with retractable wheels. Press the pedal which locks down, and the wheels are on the floor allowing easy movement. Release the foot pedal by nudging the lock to the side and the solid feet support it so that it does not move.

Also, that switch looks like the microswitches I have salvaged from microwave ovens and other things. I must have a couple of dozen in various current ratings.

 

[jcdammeyer]

If it is a 20” planer use a 20” wide piece of plywood about 3-4’ long with a 3/4” x 3/4” solid piece glued or screwed on one end to prevent the piece from just sliding thru the planer. It only acts as a bridge so the rollers can’t push your workpiece down causing snipe. It has worked on every planer I’ve ever owned or used. Doesn’t eliminate all of the snipe but makes it less and a more useable piece.
Also use a laminate that is glossy so you have less friction. I also rub it with paraffin intermittently. It works best for planing multiple pieces at once or small pieces like glass stop and such.
Martin

My planer cuts from the top so if anything the wood gets pulled up into the cutters after the last roller that holds it down is no longer on top of the wood. That creates the snipe at the end of the work piece.

Hasn't been used since I finished the CNC Electronics Cart 4 years ago.

 

[wmetfab]

I’ve killed and milled trees professionally for 23 years. Air dried black walnut is considered a higher quality than kiln dried. My kitchen table is 46 inch single slab black walnut. Air dried.

Show off! Lol