• Spring 2024 meetup in Calgary - date Saturday, April 20/2024. discussion Please RSVP Here to confirm and get your invitation and the location details. RSVP NOW so organizers can plan to get sufficient food etc. One week to go! More info and agenda
  • We are having email/registration problems again. Diagnosis is underway. New users sorry if you are having trouble getting registered. We are exploring different options to get registered. Contact the forum via another member or on facebook if you're stuck. Update -> we think it is fixed. Let us know if not.
  • Spring meet up in Ontario, April 6/2024. NEW LOCATION See Post #31 Discussion AND THE NEW LOCATION

Horizontal band saw

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
Have you backed off the spring that controls the downforce?

No. I didn't think of trying that because the saw actually likes a bit more manual downforce.

On the strength of your suggestion, I'll try that when I get home next week too.
 

gerritv

Gerrit
This guide has done me very well over the years. The end result is very accurate, as in square, cuts. I use the bi-metal blades from Princess Auto, not a huge fan of Starrett pricing, not even sure of their quaility after fixing a bunch of dial indicators.

gerrit
 

Attachments

  • Basic_blade_adjustment_and_tracking_-_rev-1.pdf
    29.8 KB · Views: 12

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
This guide has done me very well over the years. The end result is very accurate, as in square, cuts. I use the bi-metal blades from Princess Auto, not a huge fan of Starrett pricing, not even sure of their quaility after fixing a bunch of dial indicators.

gerrit

This is a very well written article Gerrit. I could only wish for a few photos.

Thank you.
 

gerritv

Gerrit
what photos do you need? The side-side bearing mounts have 1 axle bolt with flats, the other is round. The one with flats is the eccentric one. On my saw that is the inside bearing.
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
what photos do you need? The side-side bearing mounts have 1 axle bolt with flats, the other is round. The one with flats is the eccentric one. On my saw that is the inside bearing.

For right now, you have hit the nail on the head.

By inside, I assume you mean inside of the bandsaw loop.

Thanks, I think I see now why I couldn't find one. I was looking for a classic eccentric shoulder not one with multiple flats. So I assume it has to be removed to select an appropriate pair of flats to obtain the right pinching force. That probably also means there are only 6 set points or so.

I'm not home till next wednesday, so I'll check it then along with the other suggestions I have received.

I hope no-one thinks I'm complaining though. The saw is a million times better than my best manual hack saw. I'm also quite pleased with the cut quality.
 

gerritv

Gerrit
When you replaced the bearings (you did replace them right? :) they are dirt cheap to buy), one shaft on each set will have been an eccentric. Loosen the nut slightly, then turn the shaft using the hex next to the bearing to get the 0.025"+ setting for blade clearance. (the wierd angle of the bearing is an optical thing)
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20220518_131018.jpg
    IMG_20220518_131018.jpg
    492.7 KB · Views: 14
  • IMG_20220518_130928.jpg
    IMG_20220518_130928.jpg
    450.2 KB · Views: 12

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
When you replaced the bearings (you did replace them right? :) they are dirt cheap to buy), one shaft on each set will have been an eccentric. Loosen the nut slightly, then turn the shaft using the hex next to the bearing to get the 0.025"+ setting for blade clearance. (the wierd angle of the bearing is an optical thing)

Actually no. I did not replace any of the bearings on the saw. They all seemed just fine.

I guess that will be added to my priority to do list.

So now I'm confused again Gerrit. Is the eccentric shaft round or with indexed flats?

When I loosened these Bolts,

IMG_20220518_131018~2.jpg

nothing would turn and neither one appeared to have an eccentric shaft.
 

gerritv

Gerrit
There is a hex on those botls on the other side of the casting (between the casting and the bearing). As is my second photo above.
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
So you turn the one between the bearing and the shaft? Or do you have to pop it out and index it?
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
You guys have lost me:confused: This adjustment does what to the blade?

I believe it adjusts the blade pinch clearance for the guidance bearings against the blade.

Not that I have ever done it, but I wanted to! Mine are pinching the blade too tightly. I couldn't find the eccentric described in the user manual. Gerrit is showing me where it is.
 

YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
I believe it adjusts the blade pinch clearance for the guidance bearings against the blade.

Not that I have ever done it, but I wanted to! Mine are pinching the blade too tightly. I couldn't find the eccentric described in the user manual. Gerrit is showing me where it is.

Did you have difficulties installing the new blade?
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
Did you have difficulties installing the new blade?

Yes. It kept wanting to pop off the drive wheels and it's hard to get it between the bearings.

If I tighten the blade tension too much it stalls. If I loosen it too much it pops off. To get it to stay on I had to apply manual down pressure.

When I get home I will

1. Back off on the cutting spring which should increase cutting PRESSURE. Odd arrangement but if it works, it works!
2. Adjust the bearing clearance.
3. Run through the document Gerrit supplied above for other adjustments.

That's the plan anyway.

Of course that all has to be balanced with how horny mother nature is. I gotta plant seed asap.
 

Tom O

Ultra Member
I have a older hand held saw that I got from the pawnshop it would kick the blade off when cutting i finally figured out that it was biting into the cut but with the top / forward wheel being out of adjustment the blade was pushed off the wheel it works great now.
 
It is a brand new Starrett Intense Blade. But it seems like it is being pinched too tightly. The new blade is a tiny bit thicker. The manual says to use the eccentric to change the pinching force. But I can't find an eccentric anywhere. This may be the result of poor eyesight or refrigerator blindness. I have only cut aluminium so far. Other than drag through the rollers, the blade tension is minimal.

This problem too will be simple when solved.
The eccentric is the bolt holding the bearin
Actually no. I did not replace any of the bearings on the saw. They all seemed just fine.

I guess that will be added to my priority to do list.

So now I'm confused again Gerrit. Is the eccentric shaft round or with indexed flats?

When I loosened these Bolts,

View attachment 23954

nothing would turn and neither one appeared to have an eccentric shaft.
the nuts just loose, the excentric on underneath the bearing (guide) both sides (or should be). Same crappy casting everyone uses.

Can you send me a pic(s) of the tension pulley.
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
@gerritv , @Degen , @Tom O , @YYCHM and anyone else I missed.

I am home now.

The eccentric is on the outside not the inside. I bet that's an assembly issue because it's on the inside on other members saws and my manual says inside too.

There is no eccentric indexing. At first I thought there are no flats either. But they are there - just very hard to access. I had to make a thin wrench that was thin enough to fit between the bearing and the extension bar. The eccentric is a very tight friction fit.

After relieving the blade pinching force, the blade no longer pops off. Yippee!

Here is the drive @Degen, and the top gear is after that. Hope it shows whatever you need. The blade looks like it's touching the drive, but it isn't.

20220524_194432.jpg

20220524_194437.jpg
 
Top