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Hitch extension

Doggggboy said:
Almost did that. My new theory with this camping setup is to keep it as simple as possible, even if that means more work.
The handle of the jack is bolted on. This means it can't get lost or have a dead battery when you need it. I've got the cordless drill ready but plan on using the speed wrench on the stabilizers since they don't hold much weight and are easy to spin manually.
The whole idea of getting away from it all kinda loses some impact if you take it all with you.
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Many years ago, a current CAF member bribed a helicopter crew to drop him on an island with an undisclosed amount of liquor. With instructions to pick him up 4 days later

God bless our military
 
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RVers know this but for others. The front jack is important on a travel trailer, it is used for leveling length wise. A RV needs to be level, not for filling your whisky glass to the brim like the Finnlanders and Japanese do, rather for the RV fridge. The fridges are absorption type , not the compressor type like in your wife's kitchen. The refrigerant pools the bottom, if uneven they don't work as well and wear out quicker. They are expensive to replace.
 
Downwindtracker2 said:
A RV needs to be level, not for filling your whisky glass to the brim like the Finnlanders and Japanese do, rather for the RV fridge.
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That's true at the campground and on the road.

On the road it also affects brake performance, handling, and tire wear.

If they actually paid any attention to it, it could also affect fuel consumption. But I have no reason to believe they have a clue about that.
 
Older small RV fridges were 3 way, propane, 12 volt, and 110 volt. The larger current RV fridges use heat instead of compressing . The 110 volt option is just a heater. You'll find compressors on the the cooler/freezers . Before electrification, they use to run fridges on kerosene . I had an old one that ran on propane at my cabin.
 
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