Gloves
- Thread starter mbond
- Start date
no gloves around mills or lathes. The consequences of getting a glove pulled into a spinning chuck or cutter is much worse than a few cuts or slivers. To be blunt, your skin will tear easier than a glove, so a bare hand only gets cut when a gloved hand gets mangled.
Safety and Gloves
Just a reminder about gloves and machinery ( no gory stuff ) just telling about a YouTuber named Chui machining alone like we all do!
Because I’m like a dog on a bone when I know something but can’t prove it, so time for research!
Section G
Section G
Dan Dubeau
Ultra Member
I don't wear gloves when machining, but have taken a liking to wearing mechanix gloves for fab work and general shop stuff. Cutting, grinding etc. I'd like to try and find some better quality ones, as I find they just don't last long anymore, and the price keeps going up and up.... I recently bought a set of leather ones from Canadian welding supply, and am waiting for those to get in the rotation to try out. https://canadaweldingsupply.ca/prod...e-with-reinforced-palm?variant=41534251958445 They fit tight, and wear like mechanix gloves, but should hold up a bit better. I tend to wear through the fingers of the mechanix ones after a month or so. Normal leather work gloves fit too sloppy for me.
Sharp, Cutting, spinning tools that make chips are a no gloves operation. I make a judgement call when using abrasives.
Sharp, Cutting, spinning tools that make chips are a no gloves operation. I make a judgement call when using abrasives.
I don’t wear gloves except when using solvents and such I had a rag wrapped around my hand once washing the blankets on a Fairchild printing press in the 70’s, the rag was grabbed but I pulled free loosing just a couple finger nails the boss asked me how I feel and I told him I was happy which got me a strange look not telling him the reason was the blanket rollers have a 1/8 gap between them and I knew I wouldn’t fit. In 2019 I went on long term due to a motorcycle accident and at that time we had a 9 and 3/4 club consisting of about 6 guys.
140mower
Don
I don't wear them in the shop around the machine tools, but when cutting and grinding etc I have been using Watson 005 flexline gloves. I am kind of brutal on boots and gloves, and these last about the same as any other, but I like the fit and dexterity better than any other I have tried to date. If I am doing dirty oily work I have recently started using pr 88 creme, a kind of invisible glove, and that really helps the clean up. A little bit of soap and water, or even just water and it rinses away....
This is a cool solution. If it works for me.
I generally hate gloves. Its a rare day when I wear gloves, hats, or coats even in Winter at -40.
Usually, I just get greasy hands. I've found all those fancy shop soaps (pumice, orange, etc) don't work nearly as well as Yellow Sunlight Dish Soap. I've also compared it to Dawn Dish soap. Sunlight is clearly better. YMMV.
So tell us more about this pr 88 cream. Does it form a solvent barrier?
140mower
Don
pr88 Skin Protection Cream — PR 88 Industrial Skin Care
<strong>Skin protection cream</strong> - the classic product for oily, greasy and highly adhesive substances. Protects the skin when working with oil, grease, paint, graphite, soot, tar and bitumen products, dust, (PU) adhesive, artificial resins, polyester, silicone masses, mineral fibres etc...
I have to confess that I haven't personally used it with solvents yet, but the claims made suggest that it does. It really shines after a hot sweaty date with the grease gun and diesel oil changes....... As long as what I am working with isn't water based, it seems to hold up very well.......
Where to buy it?pr88 Skin Protection Cream — PR 88 Industrial Skin Care
<strong>Skin protection cream</strong> - the classic product for oily, greasy and highly adhesive substances. Protects the skin when working with oil, grease, paint, graphite, soot, tar and bitumen products, dust, (PU) adhesive, artificial resins, polyester, silicone masses, mineral fibres etc...www.pr88.com
I have to confess that I haven't personally used it with solvents yet, but the claims made suggest that it does. It really shines after a hot sweaty date with the grease gun and diesel oil changes....... As long as what I am working with isn't water based, it seems to hold up very well.......
Huh.... I guess I gotta spend some more money. Sounds promising. Here it is on Amazon.
PR88 Barrier Cream 100ml
Hand Protection- 1/10 Liter/3.5 Fl.oz. : Amazon.ca: Beauty & Personal Care
Hand Protection- 1/10 Liter/3.5 Fl.oz. : Amazon.ca: Beauty & Personal Care
a.co
Way better deal on 1L
PR88 Barrier Cream https://a.co/d/3wAuFTA
Now I wonder if there is something else that works with water based stuff like water based paint or agricultural chemicals & pesticides.
Former Member
Guest
Gloves, I prefer leather, doesn't snag easily, decent protection. If I'm going to wear something around machinery its leather, tight fitting and thin.
Everything else is just to risky.
Everything else is just to risky.
don't forget about the drill press....no gloves around rotating spindles
I find slivers are more an issue handling than machining, and you just endure. Blowing parts off after machining helps. Get a loupe (with head wire or band), exacto knive and dumont tweezers. The ultimate sliver remover is a stereo zoom microscope....probably the most frequent use mine sees.
Last edited:
Six O Two
(Marco)
Seems like I might be an outlier here, but I wear nitrile gloves in the shop pretty much all the time. I spent many years elbows deep in oil, grease and solvent and now I'd rather keep my hands clean. Also, I seem to be a sliver magnet and the nitrile gloves cut that down 95%.
When doing fab work, I'll usually also wear thin leather work gloves. My shop is unheated and in the winter my hands are pretty much useless without some sort of covering.
Yes, I wear gloves around the mill, lathe and drill press, table saw, etc. I figure the nitrile ones will rip if snagged. If it's cold and I am wearing work gloves around machines, I accept that I'm taking a risk and going against proven wisdom, and I try to be careful. YMMV.
When doing fab work, I'll usually also wear thin leather work gloves. My shop is unheated and in the winter my hands are pretty much useless without some sort of covering.
Yes, I wear gloves around the mill, lathe and drill press, table saw, etc. I figure the nitrile ones will rip if snagged. If it's cold and I am wearing work gloves around machines, I accept that I'm taking a risk and going against proven wisdom, and I try to be careful. YMMV.
