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? for the woodworkers here

little ol' e

Jus' a hobby guy
Just purchased a Dewalt job site table saw for my youngest son. Its the small 8 1/4 (DWE-7485)

I have never used a table saw so my question is...

Other than the supplied push stick, would you suggest the " Advanced Micro Jig Gripper" . I have seen mixed reviews on these, say they work great if kept clean, some more experienced woodworkers don't seem to have any use for them.

I'm thinking of buying the $105.00 one on amazon.
I want him to be safe using the saw, however, I'd hate to buy it if it will just become a door stop.
Sounds like he will be using it for small wood projects for his own interests rather than ripping plywood etc.
 

Dan Dubeau

Ultra Member
IMO the "gripper" is a solution in search of a problem. There are no shortages of those in the woodworking gadgets realm...... If you want to buy him some usefull pushstick for all situations he'll encounter, the ones in this package should cover all the bases. Way more bang for the buck with these one.
https://www.amazon.ca/POWERTEC-7100...26-864b-52f1c2af890e&pd_rd_i=B00LPR5I1I&psc=1

You can of course build your own out of some scraps. I've got by with home built ones for years, but have accumulated a few similar ones to those shown above, and find they work great.

Edit: These ones from lee valley are IMO a better buy, and probably better quality.
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho...MIh4vz6oed_gIVS_3jBx1mKw5MEAQYAiABEgJqfvD_BwE
They don't include the long saw handle type one, which I prefer for thin ripping, but you can easily make your own from some plywood scraps.
 
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kevin.decelles

Jack of all trades -- Master of none
Premium Member
I favour push sticks made of 3/4” plywood. They are sturdy, and ultimately sacrificial. When you push into the blade one too many times simply make another one.

I find some of the plastic ones “slippery” and this creates a mental barrier when my finders and knuckles are in the danger zone
 

phaxtris

(Ryan)
Premium Member
Premium Member
you can never find those kind of gadgets when you need them.....always seems to be a piece of scrap laying around though
 
Gutsy move.


Likely the most....useful, versatile, miss used, dangerous tool in any shop.

YouTube a couple of table saw injuries. You and he should watch them.

Ensure it has all the safeties, if possible.

That said a good friend of mine and avid work worker cut off a finger tip so quick he said.

I've seen and experienced wood "spears" thrown by saw blades (one in High School, tossed 40ft through one side of a block wall that stopped it, that one wasn't me).

So the only two words here is Safety First, this is one tool that does bite and when it does generally its not good.
 

trlvn

Ultra Member
...he will be using it for small wood projects for his own interests rather than ripping plywood etc.

For smaller parts, I think a table saw sled is a safe way to work:

iu


The track of the blade is blazingly obvious, you can use hold-downs for really small parts, etc, etc.

Your son's saw is a lot smaller than the one pictured and only has one slot. Still, I think a smaller-scale sled would be a good project.

Any tool can be dangerous. But the user is the biggest variable, IMHO. Too often, a story about an accident starts with: "I was getting tired but I just wanted to ..." or "I lost concentration for just a split second because...".

Craig
 

DavidR8

Scrap maker
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
Of all my tools the tablesaw (1965 Unisaw) and jointer scare me the most.
I put a Sharkguard on the Unisaw and I feel more safe. Even so I have a bunch of push sticks and blocks for both machines.
 

Maker Mike

Active Member
Premium Member
I would second the crosscut sled. Lee Valley has some very good runners made out of aluminum with adjusters, or you could make some with plastic set screws for adjustment. I find the hardwood runners can be a bit fiddly.

Always ensure the piece you are cutting is much longer than it is wide. I broke my thumb when a piece kicked back on me because it got cocked when going through the blade.

Keep the splitter on if it has one, especially with hardwoods which will relieve stresses and move as it is cut. When starting out don't do anything but textbook cuts. Never use Jimmy Diresta as an example of good table saw use.

Make a push stick that you like, then make a couple more so you aren't tempted to use an inappropriate piece of scrap when you can't find the correct one that you just put down a minute ago. I have a micro-jig and I do use it, but I wouldn't say it is any safer that a good wood push stick.

Make sure the fence is adjusted properly so it doesn't pinch the work when it leaves the back end of the saw blade.

My 20 cents.
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
I'm not a fan of those fingers either. I have many push sticks though. I even have a few thin ones for special jobs.

I've seen a few accidents and I know a few guys with missing fingers. I've also had a piece of wood get fired across my own shop.

I don't have any formal safety training but my rules are:

1. Keep your fingers away from the blade and the line of fire for the blade.

2. ALWAYS USE PUSH STICKS

3. NEVER STAND IN THE LINE OF FIRE. NEVER.

4. Make double sure nothing is in the blade area before you hit the power on switch.

5. Wear safety glasses.

I'd happily embrace other suggestions.
 
For smaller parts, I think a table saw sled is a safe way to work:

iu


The track of the blade is blazingly obvious, you can use hold-downs for really small parts, etc, etc.

Your son's saw is a lot smaller than the one pictured and only has one slot. Still, I think a smaller-scale sled would be a good project.

Any tool can be dangerous. But the user is the biggest variable, IMHO. Too often, a story about an accident starts with: "I was getting tired but I just wanted to ..." or "I lost concentration for just a split second because...".

Craig
I agree, most experience users get caught with a distraction of some sort simply because of familiarity and complacency. Unfortunately we are all likely guilty of this.

And for those that say never me.....liar, liar, pants on fire.
 
Push sticks are one of those evils that we need......but.......occasionally they add to the danger.

I would vote Saw Stop, but I feel this causes even more complacency and sets us up for injury.
 

phaxtris

(Ryan)
Premium Member
Premium Member
complacency for sure has gotta be a #1 for injury on these types of tools, then probably in a close second is distraction

some of the stuff i see on site carpenters do with saws just makes a guy shake his head, because they use them all of the time im sure the thought is " i know what im doing" forgetting that a table saw takes your finger off like yesterday, i wont even approach a guy on site running a table saw until he turns the thing off, i can wait, i want buddy to go home with all his digits intact

but hey at least radial arm saws stopped being popular!
 

TorontoBuilder

Ultra Member
For smaller parts, I think a table saw sled is a safe way to work:

iu


The track of the blade is blazingly obvious, you can use hold-downs for really small parts, etc, etc.

Your son's saw is a lot smaller than the one pictured and only has one slot. Still, I think a smaller-scale sled would be a good project.

Any tool can be dangerous. But the user is the biggest variable, IMHO. Too often, a story about an accident starts with: "I was getting tired but I just wanted to ..." or "I lost concentration for just a split second because...".

Craig
+ 1

The number one aide to user safety is to never work while tired or distracted.

never cut small pieces without some sort of aide, whether it is a sled (every table saw should have one), and zero clearance inserts

use push sticks. (+1 on scrap plywood sticks)

never use the stick to clear small pieces near the blade while the saw is running
 
without a doubt, my table saw scares the bejebus out of me more than any other tool I have. Far more than my two old dewalt radial arm saws.
I've had my radial arm saw fire a board at me.....:oops: I've also milled Aluminium with the Radial Arm Saw, still have all my fingers...but I had an occasion to do a count once or twice.

Anything with exposed big rotating cutters keeps me on my toes.
 
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curmudgeon

(Steve)
The only time a table saw has spilled my blood was due to a worn push stick.

I was ripping fairly small stock, using a push stick along the fence in my right hand, and my left hand was acting as a feather board keeping the stock tight and square to the fence. The worn push stick slipped off the end of the stock and then knocked my left hand thumb into the spinning blade. Thankfully I had set the blade depth correctly for the thickness of the stock and the blade was not high enough to cut my thumb too deeply.

I would have been in my early teens at the time; so caught heck for dripping in mom's kitchen; caught heck for causing her to drive me to the hospital again; and then really caught it when we returned and dad came in. My thumb healed remarkedly well with no loss of function; just a very unusual profile and fingerprint. I was so very lucky!

A dull blade is dangerous; in this case it likely contributed to the push stick slipping.
A "just high enough" blade likely prevented worse injury.
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
The most dangerous tools on my farm are not used in the shop. But they have the same characteristic risk induced by complacency and familiarity.

Tractors are unbelievably dangerous. But the worst has to be a three point hitch post-hole auger. Followed closely by a Bush Hog. Followed closely by anything attached to a rear PTO. None of them have any real interest in your fingers. They love big body parts and whole buildings.
 
complacency for sure has gotta be a #1 for injury on these types of tools, then probably in a close second is distraction

some of the stuff i see on site carpenters do with saws just makes a guy shake his head, because they use them all of the time im sure the thought is " i know what im doing" forgetting that a table saw takes your finger off like yesterday, i wont even approach a guy on site running a table saw until he turns the thing off, i can wait, i want buddy to go home with all his digits intact

but hey at least radial arm saws stopped being popular!
The higher end Commercial Radial Arm saws have a feature called cut control, basically on the grip is a trigger that allows the saw to move out, released the saw movement stops or can retract. Sears machines had this high end feature.

BTW I bought my RA saw before buying a Table or mitre saw as they are vastly more versatile.

One more note is using the correct hook angle on saws:

Table Saws should be positive and not exceed zero, pulls the material to the table and prevents lift or flutter (leading to launch or injury) as material passes over the blade.

Mitre Saws and Radial Arm Saws should be negative and not exceed zero as the should push the material down and against the fence (same concept as noted above)

There are few exceptions to this but until you need them following this will add protection.

It is important to note the most Big Box stores only sell only Positive rake blades and maybe some Zero (even though they are sold for mitre saws, buyer beware!) Specialty sharpening shops can get you Negative hook angle blades.

Once you go this route you be surprised at how much more controllable your cutting is.

Another thing is clean the resin from the blade, there are specialty cleaners but Oven Clean works great, spray, clean (maybe scrub) rise and dry well (to prevent rust). Your blades last and stay sharper longer.
 

darrin1200

Darrin
I guess in reality, I am more woodworker than metal worker. LOL
As was mentioned above, there are a lot of ways to push wood through a saw, but the best way is with a well thought out plan and full attention.
I have two grippers, and swear by them. Getting them was the only way I could get myself to use the saw again, after the incident. It involved pushing a piece through the saw with a push stick. It was completely my fault, and I am back to a high confidence level with the saw, but let’s just say I can only count to 4-1/2 with my left hand.
The gripper is not the final answer in wood safety, but they are used for most of my cuts. Along with a few versions of the push stick.
edit: Most of the cutting I do, is thin strips (under an inch).
 
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darrin1200

Darrin
The only time a table saw has spilled my blood was due to a worn push stick.

I was ripping fairly small stock, using a push stick along the fence in my right hand, and my left hand was acting as a feather board keeping the stock tight and square to the fence. The worn push stick slipped off the end of the stock and then knocked my left hand thumb into the spinning blade. Thankfully I had set the blade depth correctly for the thickness of the stock and the blade was not high enough to cut my thumb too deeply.

I would have been in my early teens at the time; so caught heck for dripping in mom's kitchen; caught heck for causing her to drive me to the hospital again; and then really caught it when we returned and dad came in. My thumb healed remarkedly well with no loss of function; just a very unusual profile and fingerprint. I was so very lucky!

A dull blade is dangerous; in this case it likely contributed to the push stick slipping.
A "just high enough" blade likely prevented worse injury.
This is what I was doing with my incident, but my piece was too thick for the length and flipped up off the blade. My left hand (feather board) took its place.
 
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