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Fixing Slow Leak in Tractor Tire

Some Tweels will solve the slow leak problem....

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Speaking from experience, it's a bitch to get the tires of those small wheels, I just prefer to let the tire shop with power equipment do it, just paid 37. for a tube installation on a similar unit.
 
I have switched any and all the small tires that are on such as Lawn Tractors and farm implements, to tubes. Trying to polish the rust strike off of the rims so a tubeless tire will work, is a mugs game!

We have in our farm shop, a cheapo tire press that makes breaking the bead on a small tire almost a non-issue. Always break both sides, it gives you the option to put the wired inner edge of the tire, into the deepest part of the rim, so you do not get yourself screwed over by the lack of 'stretch' available! You may only have to access one side, but having both sides broken, makes manipulating the tire around on the rim, THAT much easier!

Some of the stuff I am dealing with is 40-50 years old, and does not have an existing supplier of available parts...
Some of the suppliers no longer support the particular product... Which is a PITA.

Have found leaks with soapy water, or simple submersion in a suitable tank of water. The soapy water also serves as a pretty darn good lube to get the tire seated in it's groove, too. Always handy to have a bottle around! Was fairly fortunate, as I grew up, that I had access to a large concrete tank of water (remnants of the cooling for a commercial dairy) that I could take a full size truck tire in to and submerge to see where the leak was, but for stuff like lawn tractor tires, a tank made of a half of a plastic barrel would work well.

I have also fixed no few puncture wounds on tubeless tires, by dosing the rough reamer that is sold for using plug patches in your car or truck tires, with cheap cyanoacrylate (aka, Super Glue) available cheaply at many tool outfits and hobby shops (~$6-8 per fluid Oz). To make it work you need to be on your game, and get the tool soaked in CA glue, in and back out again before the stuff gets a chance to set up. Ran out the tires on at least one truck, until wires were starting to show, rather than replacing them out of pocket which I could ill afford at the time... Some of those had several plugs as well as a couple or three super glued holes... About the only no-go for me was sidewall cuts. The rest left me fixing it myself, or pulling out the spare, which was often the best tire I owned! 🙂
 
And if that happens on grass you won't grow grass in that area for quite some time after.
I had new tires put on an 1850 Oliver. The tire guy just cut the tire instead of pumping the calcium out, right under a newly planted Golden Locust. I thought for sure that tree would die, but the tree is twice as big now as it was supposed to get. My best shade tree, even better than the maples
 
I had new tires put on an 1850 Oliver. The tire guy just cut the tire instead of pumping the calcium out, right under a newly planted Golden Locust. I thought for sure that tree would die, but the tree is twice as big now as it was supposed to get. My best shade tree, even better than the maples

Good to know. I just found some "decent" tires for my old massey for free, and have been wondering about how to get rid of the old calcium loaded ones. I was going to gash the old ones, and drive the trails....But it doesn't run yet.
 
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