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first mill??

The BB CX603 appears to be 99% identical to any of these:

Sharp VO-A1S
Kao Fong KF-VO-AIS
Husky A1S
Clausing 8520 ?
LuxMill AM VO-A1S (UK?)
McMillan VO-A1S (Australia)
Myford VMF ?
MSC
ENCO
KBC
Craftex
Jet JVM-830
Grizzly 1004/1008
Phoebus PBM-AIS Mill
Select Mill

Depending on how long ago it was made and by whom it was sold/marketed, some of these could have one shot lube, power feed, and other bells and whistles. I have the first one ("Sharp" made in Taiwan 1980's? I'll have to check...) and got it here on the island about a year ago for $1750, in perfectly good shape. These do come up from time to time. But any machine you buy used may or may not be in good condition, and you do have to be able to evaluate that.
 
My first and only milling machine is a TOS FN20. There is a saying when looking for something. "If it is coming to you, it won't get by you". I looked for mill years ago and came across the mill I now have. It was too small for most machine shops to pick up and too larger for most to want to put it in their basement. In reality it comes apart and the heaviest part is 400 pounds. Sure it is heavy but it is possible to put in a basement. When it comes to tools I find it the opposite of wanting tools. Once you have it you can use it more than you ever thought possible. TOS FN 20 circa 1977 removable table, came with rotary index. 40 taper which allow a lot of tooling choices. Go to the auction and resale places, great deals on tooling. Power XYZ. I have converted to CNC with manual option and pendant. Accurate to .001" or better. Flood cooling although I have installed alcohol cooling mister. 3 phase with converter, and Freq drive for the spindle. Always remember your project is only as good as the tools you have to make it. When milling more mass is better.

TonyK

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
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When I set up my workshop ~20y ago I decided that a generic RF 45 would suit my needs and in fact it has served me well. I did retrofit with a VFD and DRO. I used a 2hp VFD (same power as the motor supplied) but 1 1/2 would be adequate for most purposes. Nowadays DROs are far cheaper than when I bought back then and once you have one you will wonder why anyone tries to do without.
 
johninsarnia said:
I forgot to add that I also fitted a power feed on the X axis and bought a 4" Kurt type machine vise (don't bother with anything else.)
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Sounds like Johninsarnia needs to drive an hour south and see how well a Girardi Vise works....

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slow-poke said:
Very interesting. The updated lathe CX706 -> WM250V
Looks like:
+ 1.5HP 3P motor with VFD, they claim loads of low speed torque (I believe them)
+ wrap up cover on the Z axis leadscrew

I'm curious how the pricing compares with BB
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I can pretty much guarantee it will be less expensive than BB.
That was one of the reasons I ordered direct. Shipping from BB was going to be almost $800.
My mill was $3000 to my door all in.
 
johninsarnia said:
I was being generic here, I really meant a vise where the moving jaw does not lift when you clamp on the workpiece - which happens with the cheapie types.
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It's ok. I was just having fun with you. But the invite is for real!
 
I was taught to hit the part in the vise with lead hammer. Since they are hard to find now,I use a dead blow. You can feel it tight against the parallels.. For a RF-45, 5" is about the right size.
 
I purchased an on sale BusyBee 4" Kurt style vise for a drill press vise. It was too big and awkward , so I put it aside. When I got a little 6" shaper, I saw a use for it. The vise was a piece of garbage poorly made on a shaper no less. The moveable jaw was pushed by a metal ball with a angle cut. I guess that's the Kurt style part. I worked on the vise, it's now acceptable for the shaper. I have a good Japanese conventional 5" vise for the mill. After that BB vise I appreciate the precision.
 
Hi MooseMeat, i've got a Craftex lathe mill on this site up for sale, check at "Craftex Lathe Mill Combo For Sale". its not a bad starter machine, just too small for what i've got in mind to machine.
 
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