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Several Regions have held meetups already, but others are being planned or are evaluating the interest. The Ontario GTA West area meetup is planned for Saturday April 26th at Greasemonkeys shop in Aylmer Ontario. If you are interested and haven’t signed up yet, click here! Arbutus has also explored interest in a Fraser Valley meetup but it seems members either missed his thread or had other plans. Let him know if you are interested in a meetup later in the year by posting here! Slowpoke is trying to pull together an Ottawa area meetup later this summer. No date has been selected yet, so let him know if you are interested here! We are not aware of any other meetups being planned this year. If you are interested in doing something in your area, let everyone know and make it happen! Meetups are a great way to make new machining friends and get hands on help in your area. Don’t be shy, sign up and come, or plan your own meetup!
expired propane bottle ?
- Thread starter cuslog
- Start date
You have to thoroughly purge the bottle with water, as in fill it to over flowing. Can't be any air in it as propane is heavier than air and a layer of propane may remain in it.
Photo of the cobbled up lead smelting pot. Made it a bottom pour, muffin pans should slide under to make lead "Muffins".
Now wait for the rain to stop, don't think I want any water sneaking into 700+ molten lead.
View attachment 17065
My hat goes off to you if you can make that work. I tried that very same arrangement and failed miserably. What did you use to clean the rust out of it?
Need a pic of your valve seat please.
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Not easy to get apart now for a pic.
The plug in the bottom: drilled in the lathe (60 deg. center drill) for the seat. Turned a 60 deg. included angle on a piece of 1/4" drill rod for a "needle". Lapped them together with valve lapping compound (had to do it a couple times before it would seal water tight.) I think getting the "needle and seat" at least close to being on the same axis is important (some forgiveness but not a lot).
Used a wire wheel on a small grinder to get the rust out.
Is there a guide above the plug to keep the 1/4" drill rod aligned.
Tom O
Ultra Member
I
You can use a beer keg that’s stainless steel for a good size furnace I use a #6 crucible and a 6x6”x10“ square tubing for aluminum maybe even a mini keg..
You can use a beer keg that’s stainless steel for a good size furnace I use a #6 crucible and a 6x6”x10“ square tubing for aluminum maybe even a mini keg..
No guide, but there's a recess about 3/4" dia. x 1/2" deep and then the butt of the1/4" NPT plug with the seat cut in it (3/16" hole through). The washer on the side limits the travel of the handle so it can't come all the way out and then not find the seat again. I had remembered a bit of a panicky moment with my previous pot - with no restraint, I pulled the needle a bit too far out the "seat" and it didn't find its way back into the seat. 3/16" hole fills a muffin tin pretty quickly, then if you can't "get it back in the hole", with 700+ deg. lead pouring out and onto your bench
- things can get exciting pretty fast.Are you gent's planning on melting some lead soon? I've got a collection of wheel weights I would like to melt down and make a counterbalance weight for one of my mills. I need about a 10 pound weight. The web states a soda can weighs around 5 pounds so I'm figuring a tall beer can for the mold would bring me close. (Open to other ideas on an easy mold to use.)
I can pay for fuel and time. (You can also keep the rest of my lead if you can use it. )
I can pay for fuel and time. (You can also keep the rest of my lead if you can use it. )
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historicalarms
Ultra Member
Just offering up my experiences with lead smelters. Cuslog, if you keep your discharge spout short & real close to the heat source( by close Im meaning still in it if possible) the small discharge orfice you are using will work but if you try to discharge out to the side of your pot (much safer & easier to control muffin pans) you will need at least 1/2" outlet, anything less will freeze off in very short order.
My smelter has a similar pointy needle valve set up and after a couple of "preliminary versions" I settled on a system that the needle is absolutely condoled from opening to closing by my hand, when i wish to shut the stream off I can put a lot of pressure on that point for a positive shut-off. My pot will easily hold over 40 lbs per melt (but for safety reasons I try to limit to not over 20 lbs) and a leaky valve would get very dicy in a quick hurry.
The thing does work quite well at its present version, Craig & I did close to 200 lbs from lead pig to muffins in less than 2 hrs a few years ago.
And yes water of any sort in a lead melt will invite a visit from the tinsel fairy instantly...and put more 700 deg. heavy lead in the air quicker than you can even think of moving out of the road. When that lead explodes (and it does very violently) it will throw tinsel 30 ft in every direction....not fun to cleanup and even less fun to be in the middle of one.!!
I may have to get mine out before fall yet, I have 2 five gallon pails of WW (unsorted as of yet and will contain large amounts of zink I'm afraid) about 300 lbs of pure lead water pipe to smelt down...that water pipe is going to be a chore as it is just crumpled up a bit and still contains water...will have to start each melt from a cold start for that stuff.
My smelter has a similar pointy needle valve set up and after a couple of "preliminary versions" I settled on a system that the needle is absolutely condoled from opening to closing by my hand, when i wish to shut the stream off I can put a lot of pressure on that point for a positive shut-off. My pot will easily hold over 40 lbs per melt (but for safety reasons I try to limit to not over 20 lbs) and a leaky valve would get very dicy in a quick hurry.
The thing does work quite well at its present version, Craig & I did close to 200 lbs from lead pig to muffins in less than 2 hrs a few years ago.
And yes water of any sort in a lead melt will invite a visit from the tinsel fairy instantly...and put more 700 deg. heavy lead in the air quicker than you can even think of moving out of the road. When that lead explodes (and it does very violently) it will throw tinsel 30 ft in every direction....not fun to cleanup and even less fun to be in the middle of one.!!
I may have to get mine out before fall yet, I have 2 five gallon pails of WW (unsorted as of yet and will contain large amounts of zink I'm afraid) about 300 lbs of pure lead water pipe to smelt down...that water pipe is going to be a chore as it is just crumpled up a bit and still contains water...will have to start each melt from a cold start for that stuff.
historicalarms
Ultra Member
when I was exploring making cannon projectiles for my pop can bore unit i considered using pop cans as molds but thought na they would just flash melt through that thin stuff...but after looking high and low for a sub with no joy I decided to try it...and I have never had one melt through yet.
My cannon wadcutters will weigh in the neighborhood of 4 lbs. or more at 1/2 can full so think you will easily get 8 lbs. in a full can.
DPittman
Ultra Member
I seem to be collecting too many of those...10 year expiration period happens too fast. I used to be able to get them recertified but haven't been able to find any place that does that anymore. Seem like a bloody waste to me. Very similar to child cat seats ...doesn't matter if they are perfectly fine, if they are older than 10 years they go to the landfill.
When I was a teenager, I worked at my stepfathers radiator repair business on school breaks. The headers would be un-soldered (which I got to do sometimes) and then they would be soldered onto a new radiator core.
Luckily for me I wasn’t allowed to solder up the repaired radiators.
To reassemble, the new cores and reused headers would be leant up against the soldering bench and the parts heated with Oxy-Acetylene.
Generally the radiators were too low to solder comfortably. So an old drum was used to stand them on, an old lacquer thinner drum… which eventually got rusted…
I wasn’t there when the drum exploded, but it apparently made quite a bang. Luckily no one was seriously injured.
Which reminds me of another story. We were sitting at the cottage maybe 10 years ago and heard an explosion type thud followed 5 minutes later by the sound of sirens. The neighbour maybe 300’ away was winterizing his boat and he was using a shop vac, which ignited fuel vapours. I understand he was burnt fairly badly. The cottage was sold some time later, don’t know if it was because of injuries or the fun of owning a cottage having disappeared…
Ironman
Ultra Member
I helped the guy change my valves and re-cert my tanks last spring. The tanks were secured with a chain wrench fastened to a 6" pipe upright with a cradle welded to it. The Wrench was piece of 3/4 plate with a slot burned in it. and 24-30" handle. Removal was simple. He smoked the valve handle with the wrench which knocked the handle off, and put the wrench down from the top vertically, and gave'er a grunt. Putting the new one in was done with more finesse.Ya..... I want to see that wrench and the method that was used to secure the tank
Grizzly Adams
Active Member
Snipe. I've filled them with water and drained to remove any propane.Ya..... I want to see that wrench and the method that was used to secure the tank
Former Member
Guest
Just remember even empty used propane tanks can still cause explosions when cutting or welding. Please use the correct precautions.