• Scam Alert. Members are reminded to NOT send money to buy anything. Don't buy things remote and have it shipped - go get it yourself, pay in person, and take your equipment with you. Scammers have burned people on this forum. Urgency, secrecy, excuses, selling for friend, newish members, FUD, are RED FLAGS. A video conference call is not adequate assurance. Face to face interactions are required. Please report suspicions to the forum admins. Stay Safe - anyone can get scammed.

Tips/Techniques Evaporust turning steel black

Tips/Techniques
Susquatch said:
One of the blessings of living in the rust belt is knowing you live here. So my dies will never rust. I protect them as though my life depended in it.
Click to expand...
Is Ontario considered the rust belt just due to the Lakes n the Bay ? Or is it from the untold levels of ice melting compound that rot your folks vehicles out from under you?
 
KeeponDragon said:
Is Ontario considered the rust belt just due to the Lakes n the Bay ? Or is it from the untold levels of ice melting compound that rot your folks vehicles out from under you?
Click to expand...

It's the high humidity combined with high temperatures combined with high road salt that gets into/onto everything.

For things like reloading dies, it's mostly high temperatures and high humidity causing heavy condensation. If you don't dehumidify, cooler indoor temperatures will supersaturate the air so moisture condenses on anything and everything but especially metal.

Some folks around here think the metal actually sweats. It certainly looks like it. But it's an illusion.
 
KeeponDragon said:
Is that the process shown every now n then when a welder lays down a nice bead of dimes, they rub some liquid on it, and the discolouring wipes off?

I've used household cleaning vinegar (slightly higher acidic level) to remove mill scale and rust from material before working it. It's amazing how well it works. But like mentioned by evaporust, rinse a dry afterwards. I got the idea from that Mike fella from Scotland, makes the Big Giant Swords on youtube...
Click to expand...
Yup, Antox pickling paste.A delightful mix of hydroflouric and nitric acid. Has the unique property of drilling through your skin and dissolving the bones underneath. Brush on to a weld while the weld is still warm, wait a minute or so, wash off, weld bluing is gone. Leave it on too long and your nice polished stainless steel restaurant countertop is now like swiss cheese.
 
Here's a before an after of what cleaning vinegar can do
Phoooiee it stinks lol...

20231127_213035.jpg

20231127_213031.jpg
 
Susquatch said:
It's the high humidity combined with high temperatures combined with high road salt that gets into/onto everything.

For things like reloading dies, it's mostly high temperatures and high humidity causing heavy condensation. If you don't dehumidify, cooler indoor temperatures will supersaturate the air so moisture condenses on anything and everything but especially metal.

Some folks around here think the metal actually sweats. It certainly looks like it. But it's an illusion.
Click to expand...
this assumes of course that you consider 98% humidity to be high..........................................
 
6.5 Fan said:
Out here in SK. we say "it's a dry cold" :) Very few problems with rust from humidity here.
Click to expand...
In Calgary I never had any humidity rust issues but out here in eastern sk (mb border) it is an issue. Fluid film is your friend here. My dad (retired industrial mech at the potash mine) said fluid film was the go-to product underground which is impressive given it is mostly salt
 
kevin.decelles said:
My dad (retired industrial mech at the potash mine) said fluid film was the go-to product underground which is impressive given it is mostly salt
Click to expand...

I did an extensive 1 year comparison of various products on my plow blades. I had planned a thread on it soon.

Spoiler - The bottom line is that only two products provided one full year of protection. One was WD-40 Corrosion Inhibitor and the other was Fluid Film. But Fluid Film was MUCH less expensive and therefore it gets the nod.
 
That’s good to know. Most of my gear sits in an environment with little climate control. Not ideal but it’s what I have for now. I’ve used a few oil sprays to help and while I’ve seen fluid film I’ve never tried it. Off to the store…………
 
IMO evaporust chelates far more than carbon... If I was more curious I'd have the surface "defects" on my chuck analyzed.

I dont like sticky parts that come out of it and need washing in water, nor unintended surface changes. I stopped using evaporust after this experience

TorontoBuilder

Post in thread 'The evaporust version of Blendtec's will it blend...'

So 2 weeks further on and the chuck has gone from clean with only a few spots of hard crud on the studs, the entire chuck is now covered with metallic crud. Looks like it drew non ferrous metal out of the surface. I scraped a lot off but boy this looks like crap and not sure it will ever be useful again...

But I could not budge it before either. I opened the screw that releases the bearings and zip, nada, nothing will come out. Either they were lost long ago, or rusted in place from neglect. I never intended to use this EC collect chuck anyway...

I will chuck it in a vise and try to reef...
  • Wow
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top