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Endmill Swap

#1
Have 2 large end mills I cannot use with my hobby drill/mill.
First item a 1 & 1/8 inch "Dormer brand" with partially threaded 1" shank likely made in England.
Second item a 1 & 1/2 inch "Qualcut brand" with partially threaded 1" shank made in England.

Please note: They are not tin coated although sunlight shining through our window might suggest that.

Both end mills were professionally sharpened several years back at a shop in Ontario then never used. Both appear to be approximately
1 to 2 thousands undersize by my measurements.

Would like to swap them out for small clean pieces of square or rectangular aluminum stock more specifically 1"x1", 2"x2", 6" to 12" long or something closein rectangular stock. Be advised presently I do not have a serviceable face milling cutter to clean things up.

Trust me you won't be disappointed.

Bill
 

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#2
Anticipated the 'Classifieds' forum would have my endmill swap message find some attention other than 40 plus views and NO replies.

Seriously someone out there must have a mill that will take 1" shanks as both are beyond the capacity of my hobby mill/drill.

Going, going and soon gone the way of the Dodo bird right to the recycle bin. How sad ….. !

Bill
 

Janger

(John)
Administrator
Premium Member
#5
I’ll see what kind of aluminum I’ve got on the bench. I was holding back since those cutters are so nice. Thought someone would love to have them. I would love to get them. I have some material I can trade. Do you want any round stock? I have some 2”.

I have some square aluminum but I’m not sure of the size let me check and get back to you William.
 
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#6
Hello Johnwa and Janger (John)

Suggest the best way for us to tackle an exchange would best be off list. Kindly contact this old codger at <removed by moderator>

Have no intention on being greedy a fair exchange and good home for said endmills is paramount. Unfortunately my facing tool picked up at a local garage sale requires new cutters so working on round stock might be something of a challenge.

I really need a 5" to 6" length of nice and clean 1' x 1" of square aluminum foe starters.

Cheers!

Bill in Moose Jaw
 
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Janger

(John)
Administrator
Premium Member
#12
Bill I contacted you with the forum private messaging. There is a envelope icon at the very top of the page - it should show a red mark when there is mail. Click that.
 

Bofobo

Well-Known Member
#19
So ... i have some home cast, but that means its rough, sorry about the whole post copy but pictures if what i have are in it
View attachment 1279 View attachment 1280 I tried to add a video of a small one but it has to be a you tube link and it's not on you tube yet.

I have options Murdoch, I started with simple first and that was a plain old LP 1lb torch, that works fine naturally aspirated but to melt copper a regular stream of compressed air ( I used my compressor)
Second and current fave for small scale was MAP gas with the fancy tip used for them. The MAP is not cheap tho (I don't remember adding air to melt copper) so once the bottle was empty I switched to LP again and that's great for up to brass without compressed air.
I use the MAP tip in my current forge as well creating a small shack of bits.
Third I have a tiger torch I could use but have not yet
Fourth I have a PA (princess auto) snow melter torch also as yet un used.
Fifth and most important I constructed the YOU TUBER "Grant Thompson "the king of random"s" "gas blaster torch" all pieces are common enough to buy with minimal expertise required and he shows the whole build, using a cordless drill, file, and tap and drill set for his chosen fasteners.

Now having seen the price of a tiger torch and others new, I don't think option 5 is the cheapest. It cost well over $100 to construct here in Calgary, the hose and regulator were the big ticket items in the build but it was kind of the first thing I did after getting my mill semi set up because it looked like a good starter project. It is naturally aspirated but you can force air in. And it will melt brass but I've not tried to add compressed air because my plaster started to fall apart, although it's on the to do list as my copper scrap needs consolidating very badly.

Many burner designs exist but they are all the same. small hole in gas line (seems that the bigger the hole the more fuel you can introduce (regulated) although that's just an observation from my LP tips and MAP tips and the mig welding tip) inside mixing chamber, air inlet (naturally aspirated or coupled to forced air(could be compressed too).
Create directional flow and keep hands clear of the business end when lighting.