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Does Anyone Still Make The Real Swiss or German Multifix Tool Post? (not an offshore clone)

Why do people not like multi-fix? what bugs you? I briefly used one at SAIT while taking their intro lathe course. I liked it, seemed quick and efficient generally. It did seem to accumulate chips and require cleaning before changing tools. I did not like the 4 post on a lathe I use to own as it rotated unexpectedly when under load e.g. when parting. Maybe that was a poor 4 post? Operator error? I bought a BXA wedge type post and found it much better. I didn't like the price of the tool holders on the multi-fix but found it convenient. So curious why people don't like multi-fix.

The multifix is not as stout as the 4way. Especially with a large boring bar. I can part off under power with the 4 way toolpost, but not so much with the multifix. I can have 4 tools set up in a 4 way and rotate to different cutting tools easier. Setting tool height is way easier on the multifix. Also easier to change to a different cutting angle or to get closer to a shoulder.
My multifix is a CA size on a 20” swing

Just my opinion. I still keep the multifix on my lathe so it’s not as bad as I make out. Lol
 
I'm a big fan of Multi-Fix posts. I ran a bigger (18"x80"?) VDF (German) lathe for many years with an original Multi-Fix post and it was lovely. Had no issue parting/grooving under power feed (1/8" wide carbide tool) and taking heavy cuts (1/4" radial DOC in turning and boring, 5/16" deep cuts in facing).

In my opinion, if you have a tool post moving under load, you have 1 and/or 2 problems: Poorly mounted/fastened or Too heavy of a cut for your machine.

The 2 great advantages I found with the Multi-fix was it made for very quick tool changes (I had a variety of holders, maybe 12-14 in total) and the indexing feature made it very versatile and repeatable.

I often made hydraulic cylinder rods and large die posts out of IHCP rod (usually 2" to 3" in Ø), and I could quickly and easily rough out a radius by going index-cut-index-cut-index-cut.

I have a small, direct from China, Multi-fix on my Chipmaster now. From my research when purchasing it, even the "German" or "Swiss" modern Multi-Fix posts are still made in China and just final machined in the EU. Like others, I've found the Chinese variant to be great quality and very precise.
 
Multi-fix was it made for very quick tool changes (I had a variety of holders, maybe 12-14 in total)
That would make it quick for sure. I have only 3 and one boring bar holder. I keep looking to add more but it kind of breaks the bank and they are hard to find used. I have it mounted with a dowel so it can't move under load. I find I get more chatter when parting with it than the 4 way. I just take my time, and it works well.

I am a wanna be machinist, who likes old heavy machinery. My father was a tool and die maker. I learned tons from him. He talked me out of going into the trade when I was a kid. Probably for the best as I like it as a hobby better.
Cheers
Martin
 
Adam Booth uses a Multifix on all of his lathes - so rigidity is definitely not an issue with them - if you're taking cuts deeper than he does on that Pacemaker then I'm not sure any toolpost will suffice. But you really need to pin them to get the best rigidity out of them. He uses PeWe Tools when he buys a new one but also has an original Swiss Multifix as well as the Emco version.
 
I mentioned earlier of the versatility of the Multifix. It has 40 indexable positions through a 360° circle. Therefore each position is equal to 9 degrees.

Here, I needed to cut off a 1"OD hardened shaft. I didn't want all the mess with a cutoff wheel, and a hacksaw won't touch it. So onto the lathe and used a carbide cutoff tool. Easy peasy. But now to chamfer the end. I could have used a file; I could have attached a 45° chamfer tool, but I'd have to remove a tool from a tool holder and set the height; but since the cutoff tool is still attached, rotate it to the 5th position (5 x 9°=45°), and plunge cut. You can't do that with the Aloris type QCTP without loosening the bolt, rotate it to a measured 45°, and then reset to 90° after you chamfer.
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