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Disk finishing aluminum

Does anyone know the best way to correct mismatch on aluminum. I have about up to a 0.01 step on my housings. I would like to avoid machining from the sides if possible. Other areas are just a shitty finish from vibration. I will be adding a touchup pass on those (top angled surfaces). Still I might need to disk them. I am wondering if there is special disks that won't load up made for aluminum.
Depending on the kind of final finish you want I've used an orbital sander with an 80 grit pad. this levels the surface and leaves a burnished, but even look. If you desire a mirror finish, keep increasing the grit size up to 220 then 400. Then apply jewelers rouge to a buffer and polish away. It's worked for me, but can be time consuming.
 
Agree again but I've got that covered with Dewalt.

Which Dewalt? Are they really as small and handy as the M12? If not, then my tools are better than yours! ROTFLMAO!!!

Just kidding. If you have stuff that works nobody needs to be spending more needlessly. I was really reacting to your earlier comment which I thought was expressing the view that there was no real value in expanding your M12 stable and the charger was underutilized with just the one tool to use. But maybe I was reading way too much into your comment.

Basically, I've become a Dewalt 20V fan for the big stuff and a Milwaukee M12 fan for the little stuff.

My Makita 18V is gathering dust. I really should try to sell them.
 
I've mostly got 20v Dewalt also, but those insidious 12v Milwaukee - the die grinder is superb and those little drill drivers are so cute!!! -err, handy.

Somebody I know has almost all Makita 18v stuff, It works great, but 4 of his 6 batteries only fit some of his tools. We're always looking for those 2 - 2AH batteries to drill something.
 
Which Dewalt? Are they really as small and handy as the M12? If not, then my tools are better than yours! ROTFLMAO!!!
The Dewalt is the pistol style 12 volt one. It is light enough to not be a pain but on the downside it uses the smaller 12 volt battery.
I'm not married to any one brand with Ryobi, Dewalt, and Milwaukee all taking up space on the shelf here.
I do find that the Ryobi batteries are the least reliable, but cheaper than the Dewalt batteries.
Haven't had any problems with the M12 batteries yet, other than they are next to impossible to release from the tool.
 
Haven't had any problems with the M12 batteries yet, other than they are next to impossible to release from the tool.

This is true. My kids bitch about that too. But I have big hands and sausage fingers. Those little tabs that make it tough to release usually give up fast.

I have failed two of the early batteries. Milwaukee gave me new replacements and told me that the later ones are much better.

Makita 18V batteries are horrible. They have some kind of internal charge counter in the battery itself that gives up when there is really nothing wrong. Over half of mine have failed. I no like.

The dewalt 20s are nothing less than amazing. I've abused the crap out of them and they keep going.

I was recently told that I need to try the 60s in the 20v tools. I dunno bout that......
 
Makita 18V batteries are horrible. They have some kind of internal charge counter in the battery itself that gives up when there is really nothing wrong. Over half of mine have failed. I no like.
That may be just a bad cell in the pack. Seems like if there is a battery management system and a bad cell is detected, then for safety reasons,(fire) it won't charge any of the cells. Unless you have a battery spot welder it is difficult to just replace the bad cell. Lots of videos about this on the CHANNEL THAT SHAN'T BE WATCHED;)
 
That may be just a bad cell in the pack. Seems like if there is a battery management system and a bad cell is detected, then for safety reasons,(fire) it won't charge any of the cells. Unless you have a battery spot welder it is difficult to just replace the bad cell. Lots of videos about this on the CHANNEL THAT SHAN'T BE WATCHED;)

Could be, but...... It seems like I have a bad cell in 6 different packs then.

I tried replacing the individual cells in one pack. NFG - the management chip won't allow a recharge. I got so pissed off one day that I went and bought my first Dewalt 20V. I've never looked back. I use the other 2 batteries once in a while for tools I don't have in Dewalt (eg small leaf blower).

The failed battery packs all sulk together on a spot on my shelf reserved for disgusting crap I hate.
 
Could be, but...... It seems like I have a bad cell in 6 different packs then.

I tried replacing the individual cells in one pack. NFG - the management chip won't allow a recharge. I got so pissed off one day that I went and bought my first Dewalt 20V. I've never looked back. I use the other 2 batteries once in a while for tools I don't have in Dewalt (eg small leaf blower).

The failed battery packs all sulk together on a spot on my shelf reserved for disgusting crap I hate.
Entirely possible. All four of the bad Ryobi packs had one bad cell. All it took was some time in the shop with a soldering iron and now I have four bad packs and scars on my thumb. There was a sale on the new 18 volt ryobis and they have been much more reliable.
 
Entirely possible. All four of the bad Ryobi packs had one bad cell. All it took was some time in the shop with a soldering iron and now I have four bad packs and scars on my thumb. There was a sale on the new 18 volt ryobis and they have been much more reliable.

That wasn't really my point. It is possible they each have a failed cell. But I doubt it.

The real point is that it doesn't matter. That proprietary chip they have in the battery pack makes it impossible to replace the cell. The chip knows it was changed and tells the charger not to charge it.

No happy chip, no charge. System sucks.

Besides, the 20V system feels WAAAAY better and so far nothing has failed.
 
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