Next I need to look into a thrust bearing for smoother tightening.
I'd love to do this too. Please keep us informed.
Next I need to look into a thrust bearing for smoother tightening.
..... with all of these awesome tools and gadgets that you are always making, how the hell do you find time to get anything done? Very cool, I will add it my list of things I do after my 110th birthday, too busy pissing away my time before then...At great risk of outing myself as a complete OCD nutjob maniac who just doesn't know when to stop (most of you know that already) ..... here's my quick change vise jaw system. Spring loaded ball detents snap into grooves on each insert. You lose some daylight, but for me (same vise as the OP's) its never been an issue.
Why would you ever need rubber vise jaws? lol, they do get used, mostly as a third hand to hold a propane torch
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I keep a copper bar 1/4 x 2"x12" on my welding table. It is an awesome tool when filling holes, and it needs to be at least 1/4" thick to dissipate heat and remain unmarked when the arc is on it. I tried 1/8" copper and it will pit easily.Copper is a little less vulnerable to MIG welding spatter damage than Al.
I have exactly the same thing. Very handy welding accessory.I keep a copper bar 1/4 x 2"x12" on my welding table. It is an awesome tool when filling holes, and it needs to be at least 1/4" thick to dissipate heat and remain unmarked when the arc is on it. I tried 1/8" copper and it will pit easily.
Great tip, I had a 1/4" by 2" by 18" length for the longest time, it's 5" shorter now that I made one of the jaws with it, will keep a reasonably long piece for future fill the hole type welds.I keep a copper bar 1/4 x 2"x12" on my welding table. It is an awesome tool when filling holes, and it needs to be at least 1/4" thick to dissipate heat and remain unmarked when the arc is on it. I tried 1/8" copper and it will pit easily.
I figured the welder would have some exotic filler rod that would allow him to weld the two together, he explained I can't weld those two together anymore than if one of them was made of wood.
My experience with "Bi-Metallic" welding goes back to 1976: the ship I was on was undergoing a major overhaul at Jax Shipyards and one of the changes was a large, enclosed Signal Bridge that was fabricated from Aluminum plate to keep the weight down. Since the deck it was to be mounted to was steel, special Aluminum/Steel strips were used – about 12" high, with steel on the bottom & Aluminum on the top. We were told that these were "explosive welded," very expensive (the NavSea Project Manager gripped about this), and had a long lead-time.Although it is not easy - aluminum and steel can be welded together. The below article (link attached) explains how it can be done.
More common is the need to weld copper to steel. For some concrete structures (ie in an electrical generating station) it is necessary to weld copper grounding cables to the reinforcement steel. This is normally done using the Cadweld process.
‘Explosive welding’ is also mentioned in this TWI article. This is where a collar of high explosive is detonated and causes extreme pressure to fuse metals together. A colleague of mine, while working for Ontario Hydro, helped develop explosive welding techniques for repairing transmission lines.
Can you Weld Aluminium to Steel?
It is possible to weld aluminium easily to most metals using mechanical fastening or adhesive bonding. However, to weld aluminium to steel requires other techniques such as arc and friction welding.www.twi-global.com
I made a set of aluminum jaws with a magnetic mounting just like the PA ones, works well.No advantage other than not having to remove your hard jaws . The copper jaw plates just slip over the hard jaws saving time . Also , copper is softer than aluminum in most cases .