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Compressor Question
- Thread starter YYCHM
- Start date
It's not a ball. It's some sort of rectangular brass button.
It's got some burrs on the corners that I'm going to clean up. As it stands it works for a minute or two than then sticks in a blocked state.
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So, after cleaning up the check valve I was able to get the tank up to 20 PSI before the compressor stalled the motor and tripped the 20amp breaker. The check valve leaks and what was in the tank drained out through the valve. I'm still getting the impression the check valve is fighting the fill process and the stall is premature. I'll have to check out your Amazon check valves. How can you tell which ones are pneumatic and which ones are for water?
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Still haven't found a suitable check valve replacement
Where does the valve mount ?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The brass piece jury rigged off the manifold that's plumbed to the head with 1/2" tube and compression fittings. Jury rigged for sure as that check valve had a Princess Auto tag on it. The port on the manifold is 3/8 NPT. This is a Sears Canada compressor from the 60's.
Well... I cobbled things together to try the 2 HP motor....
Got to 50 PSI and then she starts sputtering and the belt either slips or the motor stalls and trips the 20 amp breaker.
I changed the motor wiring to spin CCW and that didn't change anything.
I then removed the check valve from the equation all together and got the same 50 PSI stall.
So, the only thing I can think of now is that the check valve isn't doing it's job or the compressor head is toast.
I ordered this https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B007GDXXRQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 as it has the 1/2" compression fitting on one end and male 3/8" NTP on the other end. I'll have to re-plumb the head.
Got to 50 PSI and then she starts sputtering and the belt either slips or the motor stalls and trips the 20 amp breaker.
I changed the motor wiring to spin CCW and that didn't change anything.
I then removed the check valve from the equation all together and got the same 50 PSI stall.
So, the only thing I can think of now is that the check valve isn't doing it's job or the compressor head is toast.
I ordered this https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B007GDXXRQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 as it has the 1/2" compression fitting on one end and male 3/8" NTP on the other end. I'll have to re-plumb the head.
I'm not using a pressure switch yet. If and when I can get to 150 PSI I'll try the switch that's on the machine.
I'll keep it in mind though.
Thanks,
Craig
Hmmmm.... wish I had spotted these guys before ordering from Amazon...
CA-12 Load Genie 1/2" x 3/8" Self Unloading Check Valve – compressor-source
I suppose if they charge $10 US for postage which is typical it's the same price as the Amazon one I ordered....
CA-12 Load Genie 1/2" x 3/8" Self Unloading Check Valve – compressor-source
I suppose if they charge $10 US for postage which is typical it's the same price as the Amazon one I ordered....
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Johnwa
Ultra Member
Your motor pulley looks like it’s for a wider belt. The belt could be bottoming out rather than squeezing between the sides. That would explain the belt slipping. The compressor pulley should be fairly heavy so it acts as a flywheel. The only other thing I can think of is that you need a good electrical supply. A 240V supply might be best. My 1hp motor would occasionally trip the breaker.
The flywheel effect from the heavy head pulley crossed my mind as well.
As it stands I'm thinking the real culprit here is the faulty check valve as it behaves in a very erratic manner. It's almost as if the valve is opening and closing out of sync with the compression and intake strokes. At times it sounds like a miss firing engine. If the new check valve (which I should see today) doesn't improve things then I'll collect that single cylinder head from you and give that a try.
Of interest is that I'm not seeing any visible method of pressure unloading on the current arrangement?
Craig
From doing some research there appears to be 3 methods of pressure unloading.
1. A port on the discharge side of the head goes to an unloader valve that is actuated by the pressure switch.
2. The check valve has an unloader port on it that opens when there is no air flow into the tank.
3. The pistons have small bleeder ports.
Is your compressor 2 cylinder? It sure looks like the same thing but smaller? The tank on this 24+" long by 14" dia.
Johnwa
Ultra Member
Craig you’re giving my memory cells a work out this morning. A couple of years ago I had to repair the check valve. That’s when I found out that a Craftsman check valve was worth more than my compressor. I vaguely recalled a small hole in the top of the fitting so I went and checked. Sure enough there is a small bleed hole that I can feel a puff of air from on each compression stroke. It would be easy to duplicate if the part you ordered doesn’t have one.
Mine is a 2 cylinder and as mentioned before has a 1hp motor.
Mine is a 2 cylinder and as mentioned before has a 1hp motor.
This could very well explain what I'm experiencing then. I'm sure my head is going into a pressure lock situation due the check valve not sealing and there being no unloading port. Once the belt starts to slip the head pulley is rather hard to pull through by hand until some pressure is bled off.