• Scam Alert. Members are reminded to NOT send money to buy anything. Don't buy things remote and have it shipped - go get it yourself, pay in person, and take your equipment with you. Scammers have burned people on this forum. Urgency, secrecy, excuses, selling for friend, newish members, FUD, are RED FLAGS. A video conference call is not adequate assurance. Face to face interactions are required. Please report suspicions to the forum admins. Stay Safe - anyone can get scammed.
  • Several Regions have held meetups already, but others are being planned or are evaluating the interest. The Ontario GTA West area meetup is planned for Saturday April 26th at Greasemonkeys shop in Aylmer Ontario. If you are interested and haven’t signed up yet, click here! Arbutus has also explored interest in a Fraser Valley meetup but it seems members either missed his thread or had other plans. Let him know if you are interested in a meetup later in the year by posting here! Slowpoke is trying to pull together an Ottawa area meetup later this summer. No date has been selected yet, so let him know if you are interested here! We are not aware of any other meetups being planned this year. If you are interested in doing something in your area, let everyone know and make it happen! Meetups are a great way to make new machining friends and get hands on help in your area. Don’t be shy, sign up and come, or plan your own meetup!

Machine Chuck stuck cx707

Machine
T

Theflyingwrench

Active Member
Hi all,
Looking for bit of advice, I have a new cx707 and wanted to remove the 3 jaw chuck but the d locks won't move.
New to it all and don't want to whale on it with a hammer.
Manual not much help but PM manual said simple turn the cam locks.
Can't budge them, what am I missing?
16802060163028003817630708976368.jpg
 
You're using the square key so that's a good first sign.
Are you turning counter-clockwise?
There is a line on the cam that when locked should be between 3 and 6 o'clock. When unlocked the line will point straight up to release the chuck. It maybe cro-maged on from the factory so using the 2 pound micro-adjuster on the key handle might be the only way to loosen it off.
If the cams are in the release position and the chuck won't release, gently tapping on the face of the chuck, back towards the headstock, will release the chuck from the taper. You may need to go around the face of the chuck a couple of times but it will release.
If you put a piece of stock in the chuck that will make a good handle to help hold the chuck.

Good to see you're using a way protector.
 
If above does not help, take a better picture of the cam for us to see where each is stuck.

Some people at the factory are ... strong. They may have turned the square chuck a little bit hard & you need to undo it with some man power.
 
YotaBota said:
You're using the square key so that's a good first sign.
Are you turning counter-clockwise?
There is a line on the cam that when locked should be between 3 and 6 o'clock. When unlocked the line will point straight up to release the chuck. It maybe cro-maged on from the factory so using the 2 pound micro-adjuster on the key handle might be the only way to loosen it off.
If the cams are in the release position and the chuck won't release, gently tapping on the face of the chuck, back towards the headstock, will release the chuck from the taper. You may need to go around the face of the chuck a couple of times but it will release.
If you put a piece of stock in the chuck that will make a good handle to help hold the chuck.

Good to see you're using a way protector.
Click to expand...
Hi yotabota,
Ccw for sure. The index is indicating around 5 OC and won't budge with gentle suggestion (from factory). Just wanted to be sure I wasn't missing something before I moved to a bigger suggested.

Stand back....
Thanks
 
If you are not joking about chasing the run out, mark the high spot, mark a chuck jaw reference, turn stock 1/3 of a turn and see what you have. I hope you are joking.
My old 9in Ultil. 3 jaw is so worn I would have to shim to get maybe .005 at 3in. Start with over size stock. LOL.
LOL, seems this stands for laugh out loud, I have been confused a time or 2, as thought meant "little old ladies" or "last one leaving."
Different places, different sayings.
 
Bandit said:
If you are not joking about chasing the run out, mark the high spot, mark a chuck jaw reference, turn stock 1/3 of a turn and see what you have. I hope you are joking.
My old 9in Ultil. 3 jaw is so worn I would have to shim to get maybe .005 at 3in. Start with over size stock. LOL.
LOL, seems this stands for laugh out loud, I have been confused a time or 2, as thought meant "little old ladies" or "last one leaving."
Different places, different sayings.
Click to expand...
 
Hi All,
Sorry for the confusion. I was referring to the test bar. I was shimming to get the ways parallel to the spindle, taking taper out. I had about 0.0015" taper over 6" to start and shimmed to here but I'm wondering if most people would try to improve it further?
Thanks
 
Theflyingwrench said:
What do you guys think...should I chase this .0001" @6"? Just setting up the lathe now.
Click to expand...

I've been holding off commenting. You have been a member for a while but you don't post a lot so I can't gauge your sense of humour or your seriousness.

I think the pack has already had their fun. I was gunna ask about magnetic field strength in your area, gravity, temperature gradient, lighting, methodology, instrumentation, etc etc.

But for once in my life, I'm gunna resist the urge to join in on all the fun and instead just say "Congrats! Nice lathe!" ya, a tenth at 6 is enviable for most of us.

When you say shimming, I assume you mean the head. But it's hard to tell from your photo what kind of head/bed system you have. Please tell us more!

How is the rest of that gem checking out?
 
Hi Susquatch,
You comment is a demonstration of wisdom, we never know how people will respond. As for me I am good for it, many years in the aircraft industry and I can appreciate a good smart-ass comment, not to worry.
I did check the gravity density in my shop and had to move the lathe to the other side of the shop because it was beyond standard tolerance in the first install (smart-ass here).
But in serious sense I have been following posts here from time to time before I got my lathe and have found people here are the right mix of light-heartedness and good information, at least for my taste.
Your post got me thinking that maybe I am approaching my alignment a bit incorrect. I am shimming under the tail stock feet to take the taper out.....but maybe this is not the best way to do it....maybe I will have a dip in the middle of the lathe ways now (bending them)... so I got a copy of the Precision Matthews manual (BBT manual is very barebones) and found that there are adjustment screws under the headstock of the 707.
PM manual also says to run an indicator down the length of a rod locked in the chuck (unsupported at T/S) to determine the alignment (head-nod, I'm guessing). Not sure about the indicator on a unsupported rod since it will pick up issues with the rod and then I would have put those errors into my head adjustment. Is this the standard way to do this?
I'm guessing I should remove the shims from under the T/S feet and begin adjusting the screws in the head stock to do this right?
Anyone out there with experience on this method vs what I have done?
I'm not in a rush, I enjoy all things mechanical and getting it done right and tight is the way I want to go unless what I have done make no difference.

Yup,.....lots of questions here LOL (BANDIT, I think it means "Lunch Orders Lost")

Thanks for all the input everyone!
 
Sorry, didn't realize that's what you were doing. Took a look at the picture again and enlarged it, then I could see the cuts you made, looked like black lines at first. I was first thinking, Wow, only .0001 wobble 6in. from the chuck and he wants it less.
Guess that is why always tried to have something to eat the morning before leaving for work, or grabbed something on the way out on a call out. LOL
 
Leaving the shims where they are, I would try your experiment with a 2” bar. If the result is the same or better, leave everything just the way you have it now.

Then put a precision ground, 12” test bar between centres and adjust the tail stock to take out any DTI reading errors between HS and TS end of the bar.
 
Anyways, if I am understanding what you are doing and have done, looking at the picture, the tail stock is not there. Any shims put under the tail stock at feet?? Will lift, angle, and or tilt the tail stock in relation to the head stock bore centre line.
Have you levelled the lathe/bed? Is lathe sitting on a firm surface? Please do not move the adjustment screws under the head stock, not for awhile yet.
Start by putting lathe firm surface, level six ways from sunday with a fairly accurate level, I start length wise, then do across the bed as close to head stock as I can, remove chuck if need be. Don't try to get everything prefect at each spot, as often levelling one place will move others. Move tail stock towards head stock, so can put level across bed to level end, take a look at where bed feet/ mount is, try to get level over this area.
Now sit down, take a moment to wonder how long it takes Bandit to tell a story. Any way, keep doing this until lathe is as level as you can make it. If you haven't given up yet, now get out the real accurate level and do it all again.
Some times there will be a slight twist in the bed or a low spot length wise on the bed, don't get super angry yet, it can take a bit of time for machinery to settle in place, a day a week, or ?? This can be related to temputures, what it sitting on, vibration from the train going by and so on.
If you are familiar with all this, good, have a thought about what you want to make. Parts for cultivators , or parts for the latest greatest million rpm turbine. The accuracy needed should be related to what is needed to do the best work for the job. Unless you want super, super no matter what.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top