Chipping slag

ColinB

Member
My current project has more than my normal stick welding, so I’ve been doing more than my normal slag chipping and it’s pissing off my carpel tunnel. I’m using a traditional chipping hammer, with spring handle. I hold it lightly and the slag chips off easily but it’s still leaving me with a numb hand. Are there better chipping alternatives?
 

Dan Dubeau

Ultra Member
If you've got a good compressor you could try a needle scaler, but a knotted wire wheel (inline, not cup) on an angle grinder is a great alternative to the chipping hammer. I usually just use that instead when I'm doing a lot of stick welding too. Of course it would be nice to just get the slag to peel like the pros do :D.
 

Ironman

Ultra Member
I have found the needle scaler works very well to remove heavy rust as well, like on truck frames. I prefer a wire wheel and safety glasses myself
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
You can buy needle scaler attachments that should work on a cordless drill.

Never tried one though.
 

phaxtris

(Ryan)
Premium Member
Premium Member
needle scaler, air hammer, wire wheel

biggest thing is just to let it cool before chipping, the slag comes off a cold weld much easier than a hot weld
 

Jswain

Joe
x2 on the needle scaler. And if you already have an air hammer IR makes a cheap attachment to go onto the end.

Bonus is it cleans up crusty rusted metal probably cheaper then anything
 

ColinB

Member
Thanks for the advice. A wire wheel seems to get it off, as long as I give it one hit with the chipping hammer, to get it started. I have a good air supply, so might buy a needle scaler, if I see a good deal.
 

ColinB

Member
I use a wooden handled chipping hammer. I find that the meatal spring type hammer handle slips in my gloved hand.
For a better grip drill some 3/8" dimples in the wood handle. no slippage.
I reached for one of my ball peen hammers yesterday and noticed my hand went for an older one. I realized it was because the newer one's handle is slippery. I'm going to dimple it or something, to make it grippier.
 

David T

New Member
Hmmm, what welding rod are you using? If it's 7018 on Carbon Steel, proper heat, and no undercut, the slag should practically peel itself off. I have been a red seal welder for 34 years mostly on carbon with a bit of SST through out my career.
 

Aliva

Super User
Try 7024 the slag peels on its own. Only problem is its only good for flat welds but sure looks good. We used to call it jet rod welds very fast.
 

ColinB

Member
Hmmm, what welding rod are you using? If it's 7018 on Carbon Steel, proper heat, and no undercut, the slag should practically peel itself off. I have been a red seal welder for 34 years mostly on carbon with a bit of SST through out my career.
I'm not in my shop right now, but I think it is 7018 and yes, just carbon steel. It's not that the slag is hard to chip. It's mostly about the condition of my wrists after about 300,000miles (500,000km) of riding large twin cylinder motorcycles (a Harley and several Norton Commandos), along with a career using computer keyboards all day and I still bicycle (at least recumbents get my weight off my wrists). Arthritis doesn't help either. I have a bit more stick welding to do this afternoon, on my current project. I'm going to try taking off my heavy leather welding glove, to make gripping the chipping hammer easier.
 

phaxtris

(Ryan)
Premium Member
Premium Member
You don't have to use something that resembles a chipping hammer that relys on wrist action, the flat end of a sleever bar/line up bar/pry bar works pretty well, slide it against the surface until it hits the toe of the weld, slag pops off

I don't very often use a chipping hammer, i can never find it, sleever bar, wedge, piece of scrap, and if it's a weld that has to be really clean I skip everything and just wire wheel it straight away, just be aware of the big chunks that go flying
 

wmetfab

Well-Known Member
I know this is an old post but i saw it and took some pictures of my scaler.

Its been invaluable over the years, does a job nothing else does.
Used it repairing dirty truck and trailer frames, farm machinety removing filthy rust dirt and scale and cleaning welds at times, and also peening welds.
The best feature is that it gets into the corners and tight spots that no other tool can get into.
I recently used it on a flail mower repair where the 3 point hitch support joins to the bent plate body.
It was great for removing the powder coating and cleaning the crack where mini grinder would not work.
Under the body, the crack there was a bent lip full of dirt and rust, completely impossible for any tool to get in there, save for the scaler.
 

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