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Cast iron weights from elevator shaft - AND then vehicle lug nut issues

I think the 555$ price is because he doesn't know how much to list them for.....or at least that's what I would hope

What would you want to do with it ? Kinda hard to hack up into useable pieces
 
I just thought I’d point it out just in case anyone has a project in the future with It being local.
 
@Tom O I thought maybe you had a plan that's all

@YYCHM sounds right, a guy could be generous and give him 50$ per plate even, that's 20c a lb

I would wonder though if it's actually cast steel and not cast iron, they are pretty hard to tell apart from a glance, if a guy were to offer him some bucks it would be smart to do a spark test
 
There is a anvil in there somewhere lol. I’ll have to see I am getting my front brakes done on my 150 tomorrow $600. + for pads and new rotors seeing as they don’t turn them anymore.
 
There is a anvil in there somewhere lol. I’ll have to see I am getting my front brakes done on my 150 tomorrow $600. + for pads and new rotors seeing as they don’t turn them anymore.

I don't know if your willing to consider doing it yourself, pads and rotors is a pretty simple 1hr job, if so you can get a set of pads and rotors on rock auto for half that delivered
(I looked up a 2009 f150...don't know what year you have but it should be similar cost)

It would leave some room in the budget for that big ol' chunk of cast
 
There is a anvil in there somewhere lol. I’ll have to see I am getting my front brakes done on my 150 tomorrow $600. + for pads and new rotors seeing as they don’t turn them anymore.
I just recently did front rotors and pads on my pickup as well and assumed that no one commercially turned rotors anymore as rotors can be cheap to buy new for SOME vehicles. After doing the job, I phoned a machine shop in Lethbridge and asked if they still did them and yup they do, about $42 a rotor. My new rotors cost $120 a piece. My rotors are about 13" diameter and I couldn't do them myself on my lathes.
 
I just recently did front rotors and pads on my pickup as well and assumed that no one commercially turned rotors anymore as rotors can be cheap to buy new for SOME vehicles. After doing the job, I phoned a machine shop in Lethbridge and asked if they still did them and yup they do, about $42 a rotor. My new rotors cost $120 a piece. My rotors are about 13" diameter and I couldn't do them myself on my lathes.
Would they clear the ways if you made a rotor arbour?
 
I just recently did front rotors and pads on my pickup as well and assumed that no one commercially turned rotors anymore as rotors can be cheap to buy new for SOME vehicles. After doing the job, I phoned a machine shop in Lethbridge and asked if they still did them and yup they do, about $42 a rotor. My new rotors cost $120 a piece. My rotors are about 13" diameter and I couldn't do them myself on my lathes.
I saw a posting on Home Machinist where a fly cutter was used on a mill, the disc was mounted on a rotary table.

Facing brake discs on a mill.

I'll probably try this the next time I have a brake job. When I had access to a brake lathe I would buy a new set of discs and rotate the take off set through the lathe at my convenience and put them on the shelf for the next use.

D:cool:
 
I saw a posting on Home Machinist where a fly cutter was used on a mill, the disc was mounted on a rotary table.

Facing brake discs on a mill.

I'll probably try this the next time I have a brake job. When I had access to a brake lathe I would buy a new set of discs and rotate the take off set through the lathe at my convenience and put them on the shelf for the next use.

D:cool:
Never considered this. I will have to give it some thought. I kept my old rotors just in case I could find a way of resurfacing them someday.
 
Never considered this. I will have to give it some thought. I kept my old rotors just in case I could find a way of resurfacing them someday.
My first quick thought would be to machine two pieces of round bar, the first would go in a 4 jaw on the table, then the disc, and then the second, clamping the mounting surface of the disc between them. Both pieces of round bar and the disc would be centered so that the works could be flipped in the 4 jaw to do the second side. This assumes the round bar and disc are all true on their faces - and the faces of the disc mount surfaces are true to each other etc.

This is assuming it's not an integral hub type and there could be a simpler way of fixturing as well, perhaps using the disc bore?

I'll have to think more about this....

D:cool:
 
A brake lathe has a tool bit on both sides of the disc and cuts both sides at the same time to ensure both sides are parallel...that's the most important part of the whole deal

you don't even need to have it perfectly concentric to the bore as the pads don't cover then entire rotor surface, but if they are not parallel you will feel it in the pedal, as the disc gets wider and skinnier it will pulsate in the pedal as the hydraulic pressure changes...even squareness is not massively critical as the whole caliper assembly is floating

Brake lathes are pretty simple deals...but they cut both sides at the same time....so if you can be sure to cut both sides perfectly parallel then you're golden
 
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