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Car Rust

What's the min. compressor CFM needed would you say to spray this stuff? I thought about buying the cans with the flexible nozzle as an alternative.

Would probably depend on the sprayer...but I have a 60 gallon IR 5hp 2 stage, so it's not like I'm ever going to have air issues. Given that it doesn't run as often doing underbody spray as it does when I use a die grinder, I'd imagine you could get away with doing it on one of those ~5 CFM compressors.
 
An ounce of prevention is worth it IMHO. We have been getting our cars treated with Krown rust for decades, very effective. I drive my cars until they are about 20 years old and so far all of them are pretty much void of visible rust. Most of the nasty rust starts on the inside where you can't see it thats were the Krown shines just opened the interior of my wife's RX tailgate and the entire bottom fold was filled with about a 3/16" puddle from application last year, that's not about to start rusting.

I have had some success with rust converter and then paint, you might slow that cancer down a bit but it's done. POR15 is pretty good stuff.

They had a photo album of older cars treated with Krown that were still rust free, the 71 Datsun was a really good example, it was like they took it out of a time machine. It looked a lot like this and it had original paint. Those things were total rust buckets.
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What's the difference between Fluid Film and Por-15 and which is the best approach in my case? I'll save the Krown on the next newer car I buy. I'll be happy if my 2006 Subaru doesn't turn into a rust bucket at year 20 :)
 
What's the difference between Fluid Film and Por-15 and which is the best approach in my case? I'll save the Krown on the next newer car I buy. I'll be happy if my 2006 Subaru doesn't turn into a rust bucket at year 20 :)
I have never used Fluid Film, so can't respond to that. POR-15 sell a kit with rust converter and epoxy paint. When I restored my vintage Mustang I used it for the differential housing, 20 years later it was still looking great (first pic)
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IMO all those spray on rubberized undercoating products are bad for any car that you plan to keep for a long time. I would never ever use it on a collector type car. Great for hiding rust but it traps moisture and any salt or rust captured then just continues to grow hidden until its so bad that it bursts through the under coating. At that point you have a really big problem.

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IMO all those spray on undercoating products are bad for any car that you plan to keep for a long time. I would never ever use it on a collector type car. Great for hiding rust but it traps moisture and any salt or rust captured then just continues to grow hidden until its so bad that it bursts through the under coating. At that point you have a really big problem.

This is true of rubberized or permanent undercoatings...things like fluid film or krown don't have this problem.
 
I have never used Fluid Film, so can't respond to that. POR-15 sell a kit with rust converter and epoxy paint. When I restored my vintage Mustang I used it for the differential housing, 20 years later it was still looking great (first pic)View attachment 34684View attachment 34682View attachment 34683View attachment 34684
Was it something like this? https://por15.com/products/stop-rust-kit
Doesn't seem to come with an epoxy top coat but seems like I can my own paint and clear coat after to block UV?
 
Was it something like this? https://por15.com/products/stop-rust-kit
Doesn't seem to come with an epoxy top coat but seems like I can my own paint and clear coat after to block UV?
Yes, same kit. I picked it up at the Barrie swap meet, was probably late 80's or early 90's. POR-15 does fade from UV, in my case it was under the car and I did not clear coat it, the shiny black eventually looked more like a matte finish, but in your case your finish coat would be whatever color match you get. Now that I think about it, probably picked up a pint or quart of black with the kit.

I miss attending the Barrie swap meet it slowly degraded over the years, But I found some serious bargains there.
 
Already coming through after I tried to grind off some rust and apple some primer. The rust is just too deep or coming strong from the inside. I'll give the POR-15 kit with a top coat of paint a go and hope that slows it down better than this. Seems like a better bet than just one step with the Fluid Film.
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I went thru this last year looking for something to deal with the rust on my truck frame. It seems that products that worked five/ten years ago don't work as well or even don't work at all now.

Loctite Extend worked good ten years ago but on my truck it only took a couple of days and the rust was coming thru again. I pestered the Loctite rep but all he could do was suggest I return the stuff to where I bought it. He said he talked with head office about my issue with the product but got nowhere.

I've heard the same story for POR-15, I read lots of reports from ten years ago where it work well but recent reports not so good.

The LocTite on very light rust seems to be okay but if the rust is that light why not sandblast the rust out and paint it properly.

IMO if you want the rust gone you need to cut it out and do it right, I don't see any shortcuts working.

Here's the link to my adventure with rust. If I had to do it again I'd find a frame in better condition than the one I have but they are very hard to find.

Good luck.
 
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