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Several Regions have held meetups already, but others are being planned or are evaluating the interest. The Calgary Area Meetup is set for Saturday July 12th at 10am. The signup thread is here! Arbutus has also explored interest in a Fraser Valley meetup but it seems members either missed his thread or had other plans. Let him know if you are interested in a meetup later in the year by posting here! Slowpoke is trying to pull together an Ottawa area meetup later this summer. No date has been selected yet, so let him know if you are interested here! We are not aware of any other meetups being planned this year. If you are interested in doing something in your area, let everyone know and make it happen! Meetups are a great way to make new machining friends and get hands on help in your area. Don’t be shy, sign up and come, or plan your own meetup!
Blast! Sovol SV06 went sideways.
- Thread starter David
- Start date
I honestly don't know. It's been dead reliable till now. I've probably printed 20kgs of filament without a hiccup. I'm quite disappointed.
I'd already invested in a Klipper upgrade for it and that's what's giving me grief.
I think I'll get a Bambu A1.
I'll throw the original Marlin board back on the Sovol and sell it to recoup a few bucks.
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I made the move from Prusa to Bambu, it was the like skies opening up and sunshine beaming in. Go for it - I think there is big sale right now. Buy direct from Bambu.ca, they have domestic stock and are great to deal with, got it in a day or two irrc. I went with the X1 Carbon and filament server, more money, but the speed, reliability and capabilities the multi spool brings, no regrets.
slow-poke
Ultra Member
Interesting, can you expand on that. I'm a 3D printing novice (used Prusa paid $100 on Kijiji). It does have a lot of hours on the clock but has been completely reliable, it just works all the time I have printed perhaps 10 rolls of mostly PTA and PETG. What am I missing out on?
I had a lot of trouble with my Prusa so am biased and was glad to leave them. Their design is from the ed3 open source design, but they modified the heat break design and deviated dimensions from the ED3 slightly. This was the flaw that totally messed me up - endless jams and failed prints. Of course they were useless and I had to find the cause myself, which was brutal. I suspect this must have only been for a batch of printers, else everyone be screaming whereas most seem happy with them. Worse was their attitude, after having to figure it all out myself, I sent essentially an engineering report detailing my findings so they could perhaps put up alerts to help others struggling, and got a response along the lines of have you tried restarting it? All detailed here: https://www.metallum.shop/the-poor-experience-with-my-prusa-3d-printer/
My bias and annoyance at Prusa aside, I did get it working fairly well. Even then, the Bambu was a huge upgrade. Granted, Prusa may have improved since model, an i3 MK3S, but in moving to X1C combo, these are the game changers for me:
- It just works, every time.
- carbon rod design is lighter so the printer is far faster, that matters to me a lot more than I thought it would
- printer is on the network with desktop software so I can print right from the computer in another part of the house
- software is a lot nicer. Same basic idea, but lots more features like having multiple build plates on the go. Hard to list all the little things, but a lot nicer.
- built in camera so I can see what is going on (one whatever device), notices when finished, if a spool runs out etc
- Does time lapse photography, kind of fun to add to videos
- The filament server works flawlessly (and opens up new, pretty neat, possibilities like a layer on the top of support material that easily breaks off (massive win there) or multi coloured prints, I've used that for panel labels)
- Filament server is enclosed with spots for desiccant (lets you control humidity)
- Printer is fully enclosed (best for heat control and fume/odor control)
- Have stock in Canada
- Easy to order direct, and so far, great to deal with
- easily swap in a special hardened nozzles/hotend for abrasive materials
- hotends/nozzles are easy to change and are an assembly. Night and day from changing a ED3 hot end/nozzle
- Built in nozzle cleaner, head zips and a little brush cleans the the nozzle.
My bias and annoyance at Prusa aside, I did get it working fairly well. Even then, the Bambu was a huge upgrade. Granted, Prusa may have improved since model, an i3 MK3S, but in moving to X1C combo, these are the game changers for me:
- It just works, every time.
- carbon rod design is lighter so the printer is far faster, that matters to me a lot more than I thought it would
- printer is on the network with desktop software so I can print right from the computer in another part of the house
- software is a lot nicer. Same basic idea, but lots more features like having multiple build plates on the go. Hard to list all the little things, but a lot nicer.
- built in camera so I can see what is going on (one whatever device), notices when finished, if a spool runs out etc
- Does time lapse photography, kind of fun to add to videos
- The filament server works flawlessly (and opens up new, pretty neat, possibilities like a layer on the top of support material that easily breaks off (massive win there) or multi coloured prints, I've used that for panel labels)
- Filament server is enclosed with spots for desiccant (lets you control humidity)
- Printer is fully enclosed (best for heat control and fume/odor control)
- Have stock in Canada
- Easy to order direct, and so far, great to deal with
- easily swap in a special hardened nozzles/hotend for abrasive materials
- hotends/nozzles are easy to change and are an assembly. Night and day from changing a ED3 hot end/nozzle
- Built in nozzle cleaner, head zips and a little brush cleans the the nozzle.
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I have 4 printers. 2 ender 3 s1, 1 ender 3 neo and a cr30 belt printer. All running with octoprint and all having had upgrades done to them. I played with klipper and have since taken it off and put marlin back on as I'm working on getting them all ready to sell. Looking online the enders might get 100 to 150 each and the belt printer maybe 900, so I can likely cover the cost of the p1s. Friend has a p1s with the ams and he has printed way more in the last couple of months then I have in the same time frame. We are both working on printing Mandalorian armor for cosplay. I have to spend about half my time working with the printers and then they print pretty slow, the cr30 is really slow to get any quality, even after a lot of upgrades. My buddies p1s prints all the time and so much faster. He started way after me making the parts and he is now way ahead of me with 1 printer. These new printers are in an entire new category and evolution.
get the filament switcher too. it's nice.
I might spring for that once the bank account recovers
When my SV06 is working (which up until this week was every time) the print quality is very high as is the speed.
But now I’m a bit leery of it crapping out.
The prusa slicer now supports plates. See above, just drag the parts off the surface and the second plate appears. Many of the things in the bambu slicer are in the prusa slicer but sometimes it's not obvious. Certainly the connection and remote control stuff is more work to get going. There are things in the prusa interface on the printer I like which are not on bambu yet. For example on the prusa if one of the objects you are printing is no good you can tell it to stop printing that object and keep going with the rest. I'm not sure bambu does that. I do really like my bambu too though. One thing though I do find is the prints coming off the bambu in PLA are really weak. Is that because it's PLA? I generally only use PETG on the Prusa and PLA on the bambu.
The layer height might need to be a smidge lower for PLA to get better adhesion
@Janger, abit hard to say why the PLA prints seem weaker, though you appear to be comparing 2 different materials, being printed by 2 different printers. In general, if I remember rite, PLA is weaker then PEGT, unless it is a reenforced PLA of some type. In general, heat of head, size of nozzle, layer thickness, speed of travel, type and amount of infill, optimization of layers can/will all effect strength of any print.
If I remember rite the Bambo unit is a push and play, can you tweak the settings on it for various materials and makes of material?
My knowage of 3d printing is slowly growing, but for sure I do not have many of the answers!! And the newer breed of printers is changing many things, in hand with more mix’s of stronger, reenforced materials that are showing up often.
Are the same prints, using the same PLA stronger from the Prussian printer?
If I remember rite the Bambo unit is a push and play, can you tweak the settings on it for various materials and makes of material?
My knowage of 3d printing is slowly growing, but for sure I do not have many of the answers!! And the newer breed of printers is changing many things, in hand with more mix’s of stronger, reenforced materials that are showing up often.
Are the same prints, using the same PLA stronger from the Prussian printer?