Hi folks,
OK, so I spent a bunch of time over the weekend, playing with this Organoclay I found online.
First of all, caveats:
- I’m no expert at this. If I say something dumb, please correct me!
- I’m no scientist. I tried to be precise with measurements, etc. but it was not a “six sigma” situation.
- Maybe I got lucky. If you decide to buy some of this, I can’t guarantee that it will work for you. Or maybe it will work better for you. What do I know?
That said, I found this organoclay product from a company called Natural Pigments (
https://www.naturalpigments.com/). They have a Canadian site, but the organoclay is not listed on it. You have to go to the US site. They sell the organoclay in two sizes: 4 ounces for US$7.20 or 500 grams for US$18.70. Shipping is extra, and you may have to pay duty, depending on how much you buy, etc. The vendor sells the product as an additive for oil paints, to stiffen it, so that it doesn’t run down the canvas. So definitely designed to absorb oil.
From what I’ve read, Bentone 34 was the magic ingredient in Petrobond 1, and Bentone SD-1 was the magic ingredient in Petrobond 2. The difference being that SD-1 did/does not need a catalyst to bond the oil to the sand. It is “self-catalyzing”. The clay I ordered used to be Bentone SD-1…but it has been replaced with the reportedly equivalent (?) Pangel B10. Pangel is made by a Spanish company called Tolsa, that offers a rainbow of organoclay products. It is a very fine, beige powder. Wear your masks!
So I mixed up three batches of oil sand, based (more or less) on the old K-bond recipe:
- 100 lbs sand;
- 6 lbs organoclay;
- 3 lbs oil; and
- 0.2 lbs catalyst.
Except I scaled it all back, starting with 5 pounds of sand (50 mesh silica) per batch, and made the assumption that Pangel B10 is also self-catalyzing, so I did not (initially) add any isopropyl alcohol, glycol, etc. as a catalyst. In each of the three batches, I used a different oil: SAE 30 non-detergent, clear mineral oil, and a low smoke 2-cycle oil (each of which I’d seen recommended at various points online).
After mulling each batch for a half-hour or so, there wasn’t much going on, so I added some more oil to each one, and then a bit more, trying to keep them all equal. Frustrated, I then added some propylene glycol as a catalyst anyhow, and things began to happen. The sand began to clump and stick together better. It became clear that the SAE 30 was the most successful. However, when I rammed up a mold, planning to see how it handled bronze, the parting powder was essentially ignored, and cope and drag tore chunks of sand out of each other. I reasoned that the talc was being soaked by excess oil. So I began adding a little more sand, a little of this, and then a little of that. Mostly guess-work, based on what the sand felt like. Eventually though, I got to a texture very much like petrobond, excepting for the larger grain size of the sand (mine was only 50, whereas petrobond is more like 130 or so?). With this sand, I was able to ram up a mold, the talc did its job, and the mold came apart cleanly.
The ”recipe” I had arrived at tallied up as follows:
- 8 lbs of sand
- 0.5 lbs of organoclay
- 0.25 lbs of SAE 30 non-detergent oil
- 0.03 lbs of propylene glycol
But I ran out of time, and haven’t yet actually poured any bronze into it. I’ll see how this week goes, but it may have to wait until next weekend. I also have some propylene carbonate on the way, which is supposed to be the “ideal” catalyst, and I also have a small quantity of olivine sand (much finer mesh) on hand, that I may mix up, to see how it behaves.
But all of this to say, it looks promising. I may fool around with proportions some more, but the current batch feels like petrobond in the hand, has equivalent green strength, and “moves” the same way that petrobond does when you pack the mold. Fingers crossed…
Patrick