My bride and I are planning our last home. We favour log construction.
So, tell me about that log construction of yours. What do you like and what do you hate? Would you do that over again?
From your photo, it looks like inside walls are also that log profile. Why did you do that instead of framing?
The construction decisions long predated us. It was built in/around 1970 by a Calgary company called "Cee-Der Log". I think there was a descendant company out in Airdrie, but have no idea if they're still around. These machined logs are sometimes generically referred to as "Pan Abode", which is the company out in BC that still does this stuff.
What happened in our case is that (thanks to my wife being horsey - a mistake I would not make in a second life), we moved in 1991 to an acreage on the edge of the city on which this was the main residence (already rented out along with the front 5 acres) and a barn and 25'x25' metal bunkhouse on the back 15, which we rented. Skip ahead ten years (and abbreviating a
lot of detail - some of it rather entertaining), and the property was sold to a developer building the next subdivision. We'd been rural-property-hunting for a while, found some undeveloped land in the woods a little further from the city and pulled off a very risky, high-pressure deal in which we paid a buck for the house (which would have been bulldozed anyway) and moved it to a foundation we'd had put down on land we didn't own yet, because CMHC won't insure a mortgage on land alone, just on a habitable property. All did not go smoothly, but ultimately we pulled it off.
So there was nothing about this that involved choice, as a major component of being able to do the deal at all was getting the bank to recognize as $100K worth of equity the house that we'd just paid a dollar for (this involved having an appraisal done by someone who had enough imagination to put on paper "
This house on
that piece of land will be worth..."
So, to your questions: What do I like? That it's really goddamn solid. A few years ago we had a 75' tall spruce blow over in a big windstorm and nail the house. There'd been a whole bunch of (very) near-misses over the years, but this wasn't one of them. About the top 20' hit the house, (almost) breaking off the roof overhang, but stopping there. If it had been a stick-frame, that tree would have cut through the wall like hot butter, all the way down to the foundation (suboptimal in the middle of December). All of the walls - inside and outside - use the same logs, so although one could stick-frame inside, that's not what happened here (but I did in the new basement - the old basement was rudimentary, just room for furrnace and laundry, and no inside stairs). It's certainly a PITA to add wiring - the odd outlet or switch or light involves ship augers and the Hole Hawg - but leaving the basement ceiling unfinished has made that sort of thing reasonably doable (it's just a bungalow).
The major dislike would be energy efficiency, but even that is contentious - it's hard to get people to agree on the R value of solid wood. What I do know is that although the inside walls feel warm, if you happen to leave a pillow pushed up against one while it's -40 outside, that pillow is gonna get frozen to the wall because it too is an insulator and what you've just done is moved the thermal gradient in. Nothing to be done about that, though, that won't seriously compromise the appearance and reduce the resale value (inside
or out) - just comes with the territory. The roof, though, is another matter. It's a vaulted ceiling (i.e. no attic), and the original roofing was simply a 2" layer of styrofoam with shingles nailed over it, which is about five different kinds of wrong. Aside from the heat loss, the result was nightmare ice dams that - sometimes - cause water to trickle down the walls, though, I might add, if you're going to have that problem, better it be out where you can see it rather than trapped inside a wall, growing mold. That was an extremely inconsistent problem, year to year, given that we're smack in the middle of the Chinook belt, so no two winters are alike. The solution is a properly-designed roof, meaning an air gap
above the roof (so the interior cosmetics aren't lost), polyisocyanurate ("iso") insulation over that, then shingles. On the other hand, if you opt for the non-wood ceiling over the living space, you can just do a conventional attic and roof. But again, we were working with what we got.
Here's an extra little kicker, though: Prior to our moving out to the original property in '91, though,
some mouth-breathing, knuckle-dragging moron painted the entire exterior white. So for the last five or six years, concurrent with the construction of a massive (about 1K ft^2, though I've never gotten around to actually measuring it) deck spanning the entire front of the house, we've been (water+abrasive) blasting off the paint, sanding, and staining. Didn't quite finish this year (the scaffold we'd borrowed got called back a little too soon), but next year for sure. But it does raise the issue of maintaining the finish.
My question to you would be: Do you know whether you want to take the milled-logs approach like this, or actually cut+fit logs? The next-door neighbors (a portion of whose property we bought to put this house down on) built a
real log house as we were in the process of moving our out here. That's an entirely different skill set I have no knowledge of.
Does that help? If further questions, happy to continue to blab on about it.