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Ammco 6" Metal shaper

Pulley drive belt covers. The Ammco shaper was missing any kind of belt guard cover and as I studied many pictures of different variants over the years. I considered making a pattern and casting a cover. The issue is the size of the cover and number of holes through it. Gravity casting on a larger thin part would be prone to stress and cracking, 2% shrinking as the part cools contributes to this. The time invested in making the pattern would be considerable and would also have to be a custom part as in this restoration I have used the Atlas 7b belt tensioner/clutch arrangement. Based on the information at hand I felt that sheet metal cover would be the best option. However flat sections of sheet metal gives a true home made wing it appearance and seeing that I have so much time invested, I felt that I could produce something just a bit more suitable in function and appearance. To accomplish what I can see in my mind I need to construct a hammer form or Buck to shape the .125" 4045 aluminum sheet. So once again I digress from metal to wood to make a metal part. The hammer form is made from 9/4 (2 1/4") hard maple, sometimes referred to as sugar maple or rock maple in the Niagara Region where I live. It is the stuff butcher blocks were once made from before health regulations no longer allowed them to be used in the meat processing industry. There is a place called the Wood Shed in Smithville Ontario that stocks may kinds of rough sawn, live edge and tree rounds for all kinds of projects. Once located on Regional Road 16 in an old Chicken Barn they were forced to move into the Industrial Park of Smithville due to a complaint of being non compliant use. ( Don't get me started )

First up, glue up the blanks to be processed.
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The blanks were pushed through my 3HP 20" thickness planer.

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At this time consideration was made to the size of the radius of the pullies that the guard would cover. One issue is that the tensioner moves nearly an inch from engaged to disengaged and needs to cover the belts at all times. A diameter of 6 3/8" was determined to be the inside measurement and was turned on the Harrison and the outside edge was radiused with a router bit on the back side of the part, turned in reverse.
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The round blank was cut in half.
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The length of the body of the belt guard is measured and fastened to the two radius ends with screws. A holding cleat is fastened to the body of the hammer form.

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The sheet metal blank is cut 5/8" larger than the hammer form pattern on all sides and is clamped to the hammer form. Lots of clamps needed to hold position and must be tightened with leverage and checked through out the hammering process.
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The hammering/forming is done with a leather mallet and or a dead shot rubber mallet. It takes considerable force to shape the metal. Alloys like 6061 and 7075 are not suitable for this kind of forming as they tend to crack and resist cold forming. At times hammer forming can work harden the sheet and annealling will be required to relief stress before tearing starts in the sheet being formed. As the metal is being formed around the radius it is being forced into a smaller area and to lay flat the extra metal must be taken up in the sheet. For this reason a soft face mallet is used. The sheet Mic'd at .124" when completed was now .135" it is now thicker than the base sheet being formed. In order to achieve a symmetrical shaped part the hammering is not concentrated to one location but rather moved around the work piece moving clamps as required to strike the sheet.
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Once forming has been completed the clamps are removed and the part is viewed from the back. There are a few wavy edges, however a strip will be formed and welded along this edge so they will not be seen.
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More to come in fabricating this part.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
 

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The next step in fabricating the belt pulley covers is to add a side to the formed cover part. A bit of measuring and it is now time to form a radius on the metal side. This is a Busy Bee 3 in one metal worker. Shear, break and slip rolls. 1/8" Aluminum material for slip rolling is at the max. for this machine.
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At this time I decided to weld a seam of the same material and see what kind of problems would it present. When TIG welding Aluminum at times it is like trying to join two lengths of solder. As the work heats, it pulls away leaving a gap and a mess. At times the resolution is to place a backing metal to act as a heat sink to prevent the opening of the weld joint. 1/8" aluminum does not present this problem. The test weld is a bit cold, but was a starting point for the finished part.
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After tacking welding began. I was still messing with the heat to get the weld to lay flat.
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A test fit of the cover. Question? Should I leave the cover solid or should I cut out slots like the OEM part? See ebay cover for sale, insane price being asked.


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I want to paint the cover and will first once completed sand blast, primer and colour coat. To fasten the cover an indexing pin was installed along with a stud and hand turn nut.

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The larger cover was made first so that I could cut the hammer form to make a cover for the motor side of the machine.
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No need to show progress as it is the same as machine side belt cover.

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When man, machine and metal all come together this is the kind of weld I like to see happen.
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Motor side pulley cover completed.
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Belt covers completed and are surprisingly sturdy.
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TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
 
The next step in fabricating the belt pulley covers is to add a side to the formed cover part. A bit of measuring and it is now time to form a radius on the metal side. This is a Busy Bee 3 in one metal worker. Shear, break and slip rolls. 1/8" Aluminum material for slip rolling is at the max. for this machine.
View attachment 62446
View attachment 62447

At this time I decided to weld a seam of the same material and see what kind of problems would it present. When TIG welding Aluminum at times it is like trying to join two lengths of solder. As the work heats, it pulls away leaving a gap and a mess. At times the resolution is to place a backing metal to act as a heat sink to prevent the opening of the weld joint. 1/8" aluminum does not present this problem. The test weld is a bit cold, but was a starting point for the finished part.
View attachment 62448
After tacking welding began. I was still messing with the heat to get the weld to lay flat.
View attachment 62449
A test fit of the cover. Question? Should I leave the cover solid or should I cut out slots like the OEM part? See ebay cover for sale, insane price being asked.


View attachment 62450
I want to paint the cover and will first once completed sand blast, primer and colour coat. To fasten the cover an indexing pin was installed along with a stud and hand turn nut.

View attachment 62451

The larger cover was made first so that I could cut the hammer form to make a cover for the motor side of the machine.
View attachment 62452
No need to show progress as it is the same as machine side belt cover.

View attachment 62454
View attachment 62455
When man, machine and metal all come together this is the kind of weld I like to see happen.
View attachment 62456
Motor side pulley cover completed.
View attachment 62457
Belt covers completed and are surprisingly sturdy.
View attachment 62458
View attachment 62459

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
very nice!
 
Since no one suggested that I cut holes in the belt covers it was time for paint. I sand blasted the covers behind the barn and prepared for painting. The sandblast medium was kind of course so the covers took on a textured look.

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Covers have been installed and I have also wired the motor and on off switch for the work light, ( still looking for one ) . The Atlas 7B clutch is a nice feature to have as I can bump the drive to relocate the ram when setting up. I used flex conduit because the motor has forward and reverse switching and required 5 conductors plus a ground wire to be run.
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While the paint was drying a started on making a new clapper box from the section of cast iron sent to me. First was to cut the blank to rough size and face with my 3 1/2" 6 cutter Tungaloy facing mill.
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I used a boring head for the .875" relief on the pivot bolt.
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A few pictures of my TOS FN20 that I converted to CNC Mach3 12 years ago. I am using DC servo's 72 volt on the X and Y axis with shared power supply and a 90 volt on the Z Axis as it has a separate power supply and must lift the table and work which are at least 200 pounds. If you are ever in need of used electrical equipment EMC Hamiton is the place to go. I purchased the enclosure with removable back board for only $50 at the time along with terminal strips, contactors and lots of control wiring as well. I think I only paid $120 for the lot.
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To connect the motors and encoders I used multi pin plugs that allows me to disconnect each servo and encoder and swap to another axis for trouble shooting.
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Almost done.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
 
Restoration Completed... well almost. As in any project problems arise and I will get into that in just a bit. Sadly I will have to take the machine apart.

To mill the radius slot on the clapper box I removed the table from the TOS FN20 and bolted the dividing head to the front T slot face of the machine. A simple adapter was made up to hold the clapper box at the pivot point.
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A 5/16" end mill held in an ER collet tool holder was used for the bolt slot, 3/4" end mill was used for the outer radius held in NST 40 collet.
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The clapper pivot pin hole has been laid out on the side of the clapper box and drilled on the TOS FN20, Table has been installed.
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The clapper box has been installed on the Ammco Shaper.
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Problems. I started the machine heard a clunking sound on each stroke. What happened was that the Tang on the side cover was being hit and sheared off. It appears that the adjusting bolt for the stroke was hitting the cover, It appears that this bolt, bushing and locking sleeve were too proud and were not contained in the body of the shapper. As I had said in earlier posts the person that I purchased the shaper from had done work to it. Looking at the parts that had been made I could see no reason for the amount of metal on each part, so I removed the parts and in total trimmed down the bushing face, bolt head and locking sleeve to obtain .100" less protrusion and I could now install the cover without interference. I section of 1/8" x 1/2" stainless flat stock was installed to make a new tang to hold the side cover. The machine worked without any interference to the side cover.
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On set up to do a test run of the shaper I wanted to reduce the amount of driven stroke, I aligned the marks on the side of the machine, loosened the holding bolt but was not able to slide the driven pin on the bull gear in the dove tail. I did try and move it with a small pry bar and was able to move it about 1/4" and stopped there as considerable force was required to move the slider, the machine will need to come apart so that I can straighten out what ever is binding. So in the video below, the stroke is longer than it needs to be and that is today's project. Taking the machine apart. Almost there.


TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
 
If I loosen the nut on the power feed side, it allows me to move the drive pin on the bull gear easier. Not sure why, just a bit, not much, then retighten everything.
I would post some pictures, but that is still to be figured out in the future. A very good job, well done. Also check the pivot pin and linkage up to the ram. There are some lube spots there, they can be seen on mine through the ram slot and lubed, might need a clean out, just some holes with a bevel around them.
 
If I loosen the nut on the power feed side, it allows me to move the drive pin on the bull gear easier. Not sure why, just a bit, not much, then retighten everything.
I would post some pictures, but that is still to be figured out in the future. A very good job, well done. Also check the pivot pin and linkage up to the ram. There are some lube spots there, they can be seen on mine through the ram slot and lubed, might need a clean out, just some holes with a bevel around them.
I think you are on to something here as I have taken the drive shaft from the bull gear and mounted it in the bench vise. The centre shaft pulls toward the drive side nut to lock the stroke slider. Ignorance may have caused a lot of this problem on my part. Will report back tomorrow after Mass and a visit to my dad in the nursing home. Thanks for this comment.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
 
Mine has a slotted screw head on the adjuster tightening bolt/screw though the bull wheel. I can see where this could get messed up over time and poor fitting screwdrivers, possibly resulting in a fix using a bolt/nut replacement setup of some kind. And maybe more stick out, hitting access cover tang.
The nut on the power feed side also allows the feed to be set so it moves when the ram is on the return stroke, ( this reverses depending on which way the table moves). In other words, you do not want the table moving on the forward cutting stroke, it gives a tapered cut and loads the advance mechanism unnecessary.
This you may already have known, but hey, there’s lots of things to forget.
If I could just remember every thing I learned!
 
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Thank you for your post. I have looked into what is happening for stroke adjustment and have found the following. Machine torn down, and main drive shaft removed.

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The crank slider was bent and prevented adjustment.
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It appears that at some time in this machine's life heating of the slider was done. I lapped the slider base and sides on my diamond lap after a straightening attempt with a soft face mallet in the vise.
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The centre dove tail boss of the main shaft is drawn to the working side of the machine by the adjusting nut. This is how the drive pin of the hub is secured. ( Please see attached video for explanation. )
Based on what I saw with the markings on the ram drive arm I thought this bushing locked and changed stroke on the drive arm, this is not the case.

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This is how the assembly is without the drive arm.

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The following video shows stroke adjustment. Everything now working, restoration of the Ammco 6" Metal Shaper completed.



TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
 
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