Air Dryers

Janger

Janger

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I'm supposed to only use compressed "Dry air" in the tool changer on my mill. Nobody seems to be able to define exactly what that is. i.e. what relative humidity and temperature do you mean by that? Define it! well, the people who sold this to me said "I don't know what that is exactly or exactly what equipment is required but if there is rust on any warranty return parts then the warranty won't be honoured. we suggest you get a refrigerated dryer as that desiccant based campbell-h inline filter you have isn't good enough." Does anyone on the forum really understand this subject? and the different equipment one can get? desiccant, regenerating desiccant, refrigerator dryers - circulating or non circulating? Prices are all over the place used, new, etc... People also are making all kinds of contraptions of various kinds & mods on their equipment. For me I don't usually run continuous tools it's just a big burst now & then when changing tools and blasting the air wand for 10-30s. 10 CFM.

Also I have an automatic drain valve on the bottom of a 60 gallon compressor. It goes off every 20 min or so allowing any condensed water from the tank to be removed automatically.
 
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Janger

Janger

(John)
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I have something like this but from Campbell-H https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/3-8-in-air-filter-and-dryer/A-p8502098e
this is what the dealer said was insufficient.Princess also used to sell a big tube full of desiccant, yellow pipe thing, dealer also said inadequate.

This one: https://www.kmstools.com/devilbiss-camair-ct30-desiccant-cartridge-dryers-99905
has a quite big desiccant bag in there. 10lb bag and it's for paint spraying. It's much bigger than the photo looks. $600ish. The dealer couldn't say if this was good enough or not.

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-SMC-Pneumatics-ID400-04Z-X53-Heatless-Air-Dryer-w-AWM40-03G-Mist-Separators/163893998723?_trkparms=aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=20160908131621&meid=696620997a59485483cfcb568d2dad72&pid=100678&rk=1&rkt=10&mehot=none&sd=163893998723&itm=163893998723&pmt=1&noa=1&pg=2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100678.m3607&_trkparms=pageci:12df71fb-4b7d-11ea-a6cc-74dbd1804ddd|parentrq:2bb2fa3b1700a9c5731dbf45fff4bf70|iid:1

This is a SMC two tower desiccant based which regenerates the desiccant, one tower is on while the other is regenerating. Reading elsewhere these things use a lot of air to do the regeneration.

Then there are refrigerated dryer types.
https://www.kmstools.com/drystream-25-cfm-refrigerated-air-dryer-13830
quite expensive at $1500 or 1800

Occasionally there is a used one for less.

So what the heck?
 
CalgaryPT

CalgaryPT

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The cynic in me thinks it is kept purposefully vague so as to allow wiggle room for warranty claims. Sad right?

I'm of the opinion—and I get corrected on this a lot—that in Calgary, this is a lot of overkill. I've used compressors with basic air filters like the CH blue ones, for 90% of my tools over decades without problems. I think I mentioned in a post a while back that my 20 year old CH 60 Gal compressor is in great condition on the inside. I put a bore scope in the maintenance bung and was shocked that there wasn't more rust. I don't baby it like some do; it is always pressurized and I drain it irregularly, but moreso in the summer.

I run those little CH filters on all my air lines including plasma. When I had the CNC table I had a yellow pipe desiccant on it. I actually don't see any difference in consumable consumption w/o it. Granted, I am cutting less now; but the tips don't look any different to my eye. Calgary's mean humidity is in the range of 60%, whereas a place like New York can be 80% or 90%. We are relatively dry here of course. In fact, the only plasma air issue I ever had was occasional clogging caused by old desiccant that made in into the lines.

Now, I don't spray paint. And that I know is a real issue. But $1500 or $1800—that's a big investment. Where was the tool manufactured John? Maybe that gives a clue as to why they are so cautious. I could buy a whole new compressor for half that. Is it a case of spending more on tool's protection than the tool is worth?

I hope you find an affordable solution that will give you peace of mind, or at least makes you think the risk is a prudent one John.
 
Janger

Janger

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66F2FD9D-4B05-41C2-A0F5-88D991C548E4.jpeg
What about a big truck air dryer?
Around $200, it’s rebuildable, and probably 3/4” npt fittings for good flow. I’m pretty sure mine has a dessicant inside it.

If you want to go the cheap route buy a used one and throw in a new cartridge.

I was told to mount my air dryer as far away from my compressor as possible, to give the air a chance to slow down and cool off
 
S

ScottyM

Active Member
Apologies if this is in the links you posted, they won’t open on my phone, but generally dryness is measured by dew points. Essentially at what temperature droplets of water will start to condense out of the air. The higher the dew point temp, the more moisture in the air. Industry standard is usually -40 degC dew point for air. But realistically you just want your dew point below the coldest temp your air will see. If your lines are all inside and only hit 15 degC coldest when releasing pressure then theoretically 10 degC dew point will be enough. As long as water isn’t condensing. Now 10 is still a very high dew point and I’d recommend going lower as it will be very easy to do.

I do a lot of painting on my car restorations and run a devilbiss CT30, they say it provides -40 dew point at its rated flows. Picked it up on sale for 350 at KMS I think, some stock clearance. I have put that thing through the ringer and it has been perfect. Would highly recommend.
 
Janger

Janger

(John)
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ScottyM said:
Apologies if this is in the links you posted, they won’t open on my phone, but generally dryness is measured by dew points. Essentially at what temperature droplets of water will start to condense out of the air. The higher the dew point temp, the more moisture in the air. Industry standard is usually -40 degC dew point for air. But realistically you just want your dew point below the coldest temp your air will see. If your lines are all inside and only hit 15 degC coldest when releasing pressure then theoretically 10 degC dew point will be enough. As long as water isn’t condensing. Now 10 is still a very high dew point and I’d recommend going lower as it will be very easy to do.

I do a lot of painting on my car restorations and run a devilbiss CT30, they say it provides -40 dew point at its rated flows. Picked it up on sale for 350 at KMS I think, some stock clearance. I have put that thing through the ringer and it has been perfect. Would highly recommend.
Click to expand...

Thanks Scotty. I’ve looked at that unit. I would be using it pretty intermittently. Any sense of how long the desiccant lasts? Do you heat it and try to reuse it?
 
S

ScottyM

Active Member
Janger said:
Thanks Scotty. I’ve looked at that unit. I would be using it pretty intermittently. Any sense of how long the desiccant lasts? Do you heat it and try to reuse it?
Click to expand...

I’ve had mine about 5 years now, painted many vehicles and lots of plasma cutting. Not intermittent use at all and haven’t had to change the cartridge. Air has always stayed clean and the cartridge indicator is still green. It separates a lot of water out at the bottom before hitting the desiccant. Make sure to drain after using and it will last a long time. I use it most heavily in the summer, live by a lake and the humidity is always high.
 
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