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Air compressor reset

If you have done all the checks as suggested above then it might be a faulty thermal overload which can be replaced.

Thermal O/L switch

I would want to see what is happening with an clamp on ammeter before replacing any parts.

And I would follow-up with slow-poke's advice and rule out the capacitors since that is a common point of failure.
 
If you have done all the checks as suggested above then it might be a faulty thermal overload which can be replaced.

Thermal O/L switch

I would want to see what is happening with an clamp on ammeter before replacing any parts.

And I would follow-up with slow-poke's advice and rule out the capacitors since that is a common point of failure.
Unfortunately I don't have an ammeter :(
 
Will the size be marked on the them?
Is there a way to test them?

That site I linked to will help to determine a replacement.

Based on what you've stated it is working but is it working to spec or opening the circuit prematurely? It works based on current draw and usually a bimetallic strip that bends as it heats up. Too high of a current over a period of time and the strip bends opening the circuit.

Edit: If the thermal overload switch were to be tested you could use a meter and measure resistance while manually pressing the button to see it is "open" or "closed". But that doesn't determine correct operation under normal working conditions, just whether it is fully closed or open.
 
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Unfortunately I don't have an ammeter :(

The forum Sparky's can provide more guidance but you might want to consider one of these. The clamp goes over a wire & measures current. Or most units also have plugs to attach test leads so it acts like a regular multi-meter. Some are AC current only, I'd recommend AC/DC so you are covered. Note the clamp goes OVER/AROUND the wire, not clamped ON the wire).

1750793675529.png
 
Sometimes getting a clamp on meter into position easily and safely can be difficult. I built one of these for getting in between a receptacle and 120 volt equipment (there are commercial versions).

IMG_20250624_142853.jpg


You can obviously do the same for for 240 volt with the right cord ends.
 
It states 17.x A
On start-up it should pull that many but not more if all is right?
Yes, if you see the current significantly higher than the rated FLA for an extended period of time and the thermal overload "trips" you know the switch is working properly.

In the manual it suggests waiting 10-15 minutes for the motor to cool down before attempting a reset but you stated the motor doesn't feel hot.
 
Yes, if you see the current significantly higher than the rated FLA for an extended period of time and the thermal overload "trips" you know the switch is working properly.

In the manual it suggests waiting 10-15 minutes for the motor to cool down before attempting a reset but you stated the motor doesn't feel hot.
I need a new 9V battery for my infrared thermometer but the motor was about baby bathwater warm :)
 
Unfortunately I don't have an ammeter :(

Time for another you suck???

Everyone who plays with wires needs a good multimeter! With your GD Luck, you will find a brand new fluke free someplace. Maybe there is one under the seat of that car you just bought.
 
Will the size be marked on the them?
Is there a way to test them?
Yes the size will be marked.

Watch the video on how to test.

IIRC you have a Fluke77? If so I'm not sure what series?

I think the series IV has a capacitance range, not sure about the previous versions.

To test it properly you will need a DMM with a capacitance selection.
 
Yes the size will be marked.

Watch the video on how to test.

IIRC you have a Fluke77? If so I'm not sure what series?

I think the series IV has a capacitance range, not sure about the previous versions.

To test it properly you will need a DMM with a capacitance selection.
I have a Fluke77III, doesn't look like it measures capacitance.
 
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