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Adjustable Pedestal Feet for 12x36 Lathe


Active Member
Hey everyone, I know this isn't a very intricate project like some of the other cool stuff on here, but figured to share it anyway as the 12x36 import lathe seems to be a fairly common unit. I had thought of making a workbench and getting rid of the pedestals altogether, which is what TheLocalDrunk did (and made a very nice job of it), but figured that I had most of the materials on hand (mostly project leftovers) for this route rather than having to buy metal. When I first got it, I didn't want to drill the floor for anchors (don't trust the concrete in my yuppie-neighborhood suburbanite home attached garage). At the time all I had was a carpenter's level and some wood wedges, so believe me it's much better now. I was even spinning an out-of-balance workpiece the other night without feeling like the lathe was going to jump in my lap.
LatheFeet1.jpg LatheFeet2.jpg LatheFeet3.jpg LatheFeet4.jpg LatheLevel1.jpg LatheLevel2.jpg
I know it's preferable to use a longer machinist's level to set machinery up but this is what I have. It's amazing how different it feels being more stable, level, and at a better height for not having to hunch over as much. Now watching kijiji for a cheap used roller cabinet to remove the casters and slide under the chip pan. Will need that as I lost my QCTP tool holder shelf that was on the wall behind the lathe and it would be nice to have the tool holders handy.

Biggest nuisance on install was finding out that the bases of he pedestals are about 1/4" out of square, so had to use the die grinder on one bolt hole of each of the pedestals. After that, set level in both directions, ensured even amount of torque on all jack screws, and really all it cost me was a piece of 1"-14 ready rod, a few bucks in bolts, a spray can of paint, some scrap, and some time.
Nice! Looks like store bought:)

How did you manage to put the hex heads on the leveling screws?

I like the looks of your mill table. Looks Solid.

The RCBS reloading press looks a little out of place in there?
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Active Member
Thanks, I'm happy with how they turned out. I used the lock nuts (made from 1-1/2" hex stock) as a simple indexing method on the mill. Lock one nut against another, make sure they're out of phase from each other, and you get an indexing method and work stop at once. Ok for making hexes to engage socket wrenches, but wouldn't use it for really precise parts. If you'd like to see how I did the hexes, it's on my latest YouTube video, just search for "Everett's Workshop" and it'll come up. Made a 3-parter video series, including a few of my screw-ups, it's the beginning of part 3 of the build.

As for the reloading press, I do reload when I need to but unfortunately fatherhood has cut into my range time so it's less necessary of late . . . Got that press from my grandfather when he passed in 2001, and it was old even when I was a kid. Maybe when my Little Goober is bigger we might need to roll some more of our own and go play at the range :)


Active Member
Yep! My round drops that made up the feet were 3" across, the pucks Gorilla-glued right on there and match the diameter. It added 1" of lift as well as provided some hard rubber dampening of vibration to the floor. They're just Canadian Tire sale specials but that's all that's needed. The only annoying part of putting them on was scraping off the excess Gorilla glue that oozed out of the joint but even that wasn't too bad.