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Tips/Techniques 3DP typical machine threads

Tips/Techniques

PeterT

Ultra Member
Premium Member
This got touched on elsewhere, but I'll expand the topic here. What is the collective wisdom for printing threads in general for workshop items? I'm about to experiment & just wondering beforehand. Nothing onerous, not a 3DP trailer hitch to be sold on Ebay LOL. Mostly prototyping what will ultimately be metal. OTOH if printed threads work for the application why not use it.

- I could generate a true thread but extra work in my particular CAD app. No drag & drop vee/helix profiling like Fusion. This would theoretically make the part ready to go, but now all the other factors - accuracy of print vs class of thread, orientation of threads relative to print action, print goobers etc.

- I could spec a pilot hole only, print & tap no different than metal. But (my limited understanding) this could be bad news if the threads cut into the hole ID skin into the mushy / low density infill. So spend time in the print software to somehow increase the local hole density/thickness? is this even a thing?

- partial thread form intending to be finish tapped? (even more work)

- skip the whole thread printing thing & integrate provisions for metal thread inserts from onset?
 
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I think a lot depends on the size of the hole and thread pitch.
A small thread like 10-32 is not really a viable thread to 3D print with any kind of accuracy. It can be tapped though.
Larger threads like 1/2-10 might work due to the size of the thread.
That said considering that the larger thread is likely to see more load the ultimate strength is a consideration.

And as you note hole orientation is a factor. I try to design such that all holes are axially oriented to the Z axis. I've never found a support style that works well for holes with axial orientation in the X or Y axis.

Personally I use brass inserts for anything that needs accurate, and durable threads.
 
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This got touched on elsewhere, but I'll expand the topic here. What is the collective wisdom for printing threads in general for workshop items? I'm about to experiment & just wondering beforehand. Nothing onerous, not a 3DP trailer hitch to be sold on Ebay LOL. Mostly prototyping what will ultimately be metal. OTOH if printed threads work for the application why not use it.

- I could generate a true thread but extra work in my particular CAD app. No drag & drop vee/helix profiling like Fusion. This would theoretically make the part ready to go, but now all the other factors - accuracy of print vs class of thread, orientation of threads relative to print action, print goobers etc.

- I could spec a pilot hole only, print & tap no different than metal. But (my limited understanding) this could be bad news if the threads cut into the hole ID skin into the mushy / low density infill. So spend time in the print software to somehow increase the local hole density/thickness? is this even a thing?

- partial thread form intending to be finish tapped? (even more work)

- skip the whole thread printing thing & integrate provisions for metal thread inserts from onset?
I tried a fair number of threads in PET and PLA and while standard large size threads can work, I had to design special profiles to have any decent holding power on my pneumatic chisel. It took tweaking on the internal grub clearance to get a good fit

I prefer heat stake insert for smaller threads, and even used threaded insert for wood
 
In the astronomy area, printing .75 and 1.0 mm threads have been done many times. Mind you that attachments are large in diameter like 42 mm X .75. Most success has been using .1 mm layer height. Here is a link to an area I found out of 133 pages discussing threads. Check post # 793. Hope this helps.
Pierre


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I'm sure I even have some of these heat set inserts to experiment with. I'll have to research how to increase fill density around the hole location if that's a prerequisite

@djberta when you say thread inserts do you mean a particular style? I'm also familiar with the ones with aggressive external threads like for wood etc. but assume that would be too coarse for 3DP application even if heated?
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