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2 Kinds of Help Wanted

TheLocalDrunk

Active Member
I have a cheap 3D Printer at work.
Sometimes I can get good prints, sometimes its crap. Im not that strong with the machine. Wondering if anyone is up in the NE of cowTown that might be able to swing by, look at it, and give some tips and suggestions to upgrade/fix/setup and or tweak so it is not poo.

Second one. The issue I am having right now is on a tablet stand. Its not printing well and Im wondering if someone could print it out for me if possible. (Unless its a quick fix for my printer here)
 

TheLocalDrunk

Active Member
Lets try something different.

Control Boards for 3D printer. Does anyone here have experience with different control boards? (Someone that can make a comparison between them)
 

Johnwa

Ultra Member
I’ve only used the Ramps controller that came with my printer. What sort of problems are you having with the print?
There’s a 3d printing group that meets up the last Thursday of the month. Lots of knowledge there.
 

kevin.decelles

Jack of all trades -- Master of none
Premium Member
My printer uses the ATmega2560 board. No complaints and nothing to compare to. Not proprietary in that you have full control of the firmware and can alter it as you wish

My printer is a geeetech i3 pro-b , cost < 300 cDN . Had to be assembled

I like it for the fact that parts are cheap (new board is 40-50), and there are thousands of people hopping them up and sharing parts/ideas

Small print bed (20x20) but suitable for my needs




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

TheLocalDrunk

Active Member
I’ve only used the Ramps controller that came with my printer. What sort of problems are you having with the print?
There’s a 3d printing group that meets up the last Thursday of the month. Lots of knowledge there.


The main problem right now is bed adhesion with some larger pieces.
But the ever the general print quality is garbage. Resolution is too poor. Doesnt always follow a straight path.

We've tried all sorts of different settings.

The board we are using is a makerbase (will get the exact model ver in a few mins) and updating/changing the firmware is a nightmare

IMG_2456.jpg IMG_2457.jpg IMG_2458.jpg
 

TheLocalDrunk

Active Member
My printer uses the ATmega2560 board. No complaints and nothing to compare to. Not proprietary in that you have full control of the firmware and can alter it as you wish

My printer is a geeetech i3 pro-b , cost < 300 cDN . Had to be assembled

I like it for the fact that parts are cheap (new board is 40-50), and there are thousands of people hopping them up and sharing parts/ideas

Small print bed (20x20) but suitable for my needs




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for the info!
Our print bed is 300x300x300
But that board should still work for it eh?
 

kevin.decelles

Jack of all trades -- Master of none
Premium Member
Bed adhesion is an ongoing challenge and there are many variables (many)

I’m getting good results now after muck trial And errror

Good levelling is key (rig up a dial indicator bracket for best results) . You’d be surprised at what u think is level vs what the dial indicator will show you

Next, heated bed is a must and I have to pre heat mine for 20 min to get best results . I find that waiting is best

Once the bed is heated I clean with isopropyl alcohol before each print..... I found this to be one of the biggest factors

And finally, printing in an enclosure ( with adequate venting) and disabling cooling (for Petg) were the last two items




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

TheLocalDrunk

Active Member
We have a heated bed.
Tried multiple temperatures.
Tried on a naked bed, painters tape, stick glue, 3M spray adhesive........ nothing seems to work so far.
(We do clean it with iso also. one thing we have an abundance of here)

Using a dial indicator is a good idea, will try that next.
 

kevin.decelles

Jack of all trades -- Master of none
Premium Member
I went with a magnetic flex bed and that made a huge difference. I was printing on glass before that w/glue or hairspray with poorer results


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Colten Edwards

Fabricator
heated bed at 70 degrees for PLA, around 90 for ABS. your first layer is too far away from the bed from what I can see. need to lower the nozzle. Use glue stick for adhesion. unless your printing ABS then it's acetone/ABS mixture which is painted on the bed. Nozzle temp should be around 190-205 for PLA, much higher for ABS.

I've use RAMPS with ATmega2560's(8-bit), several 32 bit boards which can give nice results and are definitely faster processing. Right now I'm using Duet2 boards in both my printers. These boards are nice. The internal web interface is great. There is a wireless and a wired version of the duet2/3. For software, I've use Marlin, smoothieware and now RR for the duet. I prefer RR right now.
 

TheLocalDrunk

Active Member
heated bed at 70 degrees for PLA, around 90 for ABS. your first layer is too far away from the bed from what I can see. need to lower the nozzle. Use glue stick for adhesion. unless your printing ABS then it's acetone/ABS mixture which is painted on the bed. Nozzle temp should be around 190-205 for PLA, much higher for ABS.

I've use RAMPS with ATmega2560's(8-bit), several 32 bit boards which can give nice results and are definitely faster processing. Right now I'm using Duet2 boards in both my printers. These boards are nice. The internal web interface is great. There is a wireless and a wired version of the duet2/3. For software, I've use Marlin, smoothieware and now RR for the duet. I prefer RR right now.
Thanks
i don’t think my steppers are “calibrated” properly too. So we will be re adjusting all of that and I will be following Kevin’s suggestion and hooking up a dial indicator to it to get more exact numbers.
 

Colten Edwards

Fabricator
Both of my printers are Tevo/Cr10 clones. The smaller of the two is basically a tevo with linear rail's all around. The larger has a 20" square bed and has linear rails all around. 3/16 aluminum beds with a 120v heater on the small one and a 220v on the larger. Both have Duet2 with wifi and touch screen controls. If you look on facebook, there's a CB10 group which published the plastic parts needed to make a clone. I used my CNC router to create metal parts instead of plastic ones. There are better parts available from thingiverse where someone did a complete CR10s in fusion360.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/487732514958605/?ref=group_header
 

Janger

(John)
Administrator
Vendor
I have the Prusa with the magnetic flexible metal base. It’s coated with powder coating paint. The company suggests cleaning it with acetone when prints are failing to stick properly. I did that not so long ago and was surprised how much black guck came on what looked like a perfectly clean bed. Maybe try that too.
 
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