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14x40 oil change

PeterT

Ultra Member
Premium Member
#1
I decided to get after my gearbox oil change. Who knows if I have accumulated 2500 hours of run time since post-break-in change done by draining through the plug. That mode is inconvenient to access the plug & a real mess trying to route oil & sop up spillover in the chip tray. & on the floor I wanted to peek under gearbox cover plate so went in from the top this time. I pre-scored the bondo/paint around the lid & unscrewed the 4 cap screws.. Don't think it was ever off since new (1998) so it took a gentle chisel pry on the corner after a rubber mallet failed to motivate it off. Gasket seal is plain rubber looking & in good shape.

I was pleasantly surprised. The inside gearbox was painted white. I've heard of many offshore machines of this vintage that are bare steel (rust) or flake off primer. The oil was quite clear all the way to the pool bottom & no obvious shrapnel. The gears & shafts looked brand new actually. The floor looked good except for what look more like stains in the crevices, not even silt. I used my brand new shop vac & proceeded to suck all the oil out <just Kidding>. I bought a Canadian Tire super sucker hemostat looking thing & it worked perfect. Once I got it drained I worked a rag around the floor to mop up everything & look for any shrapnel.

Remember to only use one rag at a time & remove it so the patient doesn't go into convulsions after surgery. I replaced it with used ISO-46 hydraulic oil. I know we beat this subject to death in another post but I decided to run with this viscosity more or less as evaluation because its about half what my manual calls for (and what was in it). I can also get the same brand in lower viscosity & it wasn't expensive. 5L was exactly what it needed to sight glass full. Buttoned it up, wiped it all clean, ran the motor, no leaks. Oh whats this? The magnet I was going to put on a strategic spot of the floor. Sheesh. Next time. As I transferred my oil from bucket into disposal container I noticed thus gold panning dust sediment. All that came from a mop up area that was under the sliding assembly but by some casting webs. Maybe the oil whirpools or something.
 

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Alexander

Super User
Administrator
#4
Good work. I recently did a similar job on the mazak cnc at work. Same thing it went way to long without maintenance i hate that people don't take these things more seriously.
 
#5
I decided to get after my gearbox oil change. I replaced it with used ISO-46 hydraulic oil. I know we beat this subject to death in another post but I decided to run with this viscosity more or less as evaluation because its about half what my manual calls for (and what was in it).
Would like to review the above mentioned thread as it relates to gear oil change-out however I cannot seem to find same. Obviously not using the right formula. Can anyone point me in the right direction.

Bill
 

PeterT

Ultra Member
Premium Member
#8
William are you talking about searching the forum using a keyword and by formula you mean what viscosity number? Here is an example where I typed in 'viscosity' only because I remember we were discussing that aspect of oil properties related to lathes & gear boxes. This might be one of the posts.
https://canadianhobbymetalworkers.com/threads/wanted-metal-lathe.1071/page-4

Sorry if its not but maybe you could try other key words like 'ISO' 'oil' 'gear oil' etc. because I think t came up a few times. Sometimes gear box oil, sometimes way oil, sometimes cutting oil.... Let us know if this helps. If not just ask.
 

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#9
Hello PeterT - yes that works for me just what I was looking for thank you for that.

I purchased a Craftex B2227L 10"x18" lathe back in 2007, however the manual does NOT provide the ISO number or recommended gear oil yet it advises you to change-out the headstock oil after ten hours of use. Go figure! So I opted to go with Motomaster AW 68 only because my shop a single car garage gets quite hot during summer months. Have continued to use this grade ever since free of issues.
After reading the thread I would have no problem with dropping down to AW 46 if need be.

Worst problem I had with said lathe was cleaning off all the bright pink chicken fat after delivery. Yuck!

Bill
 

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PeterT

Ultra Member
Premium Member
#10
...cleaning off all the bright pink chicken fat after delivery. Yuck!
Haha. Yes we have all been there. I guess its better than collecting rust in humid climates where they are made. But i figure they must spray it on, it seems to get gets in every nook & cranny & places where you don't want it. If it is left on it turns into a harder wax like mung over the years. My apron gears had a coating of it. I just assumed it was bad grease.