Recent content by Brent H

Hahaha!! We will get ya tuned in June early!!! .

Only about a month and a half and we get to have some fun!!! How long is your piece of 1.25? 3 thou on a cut might suggest you need a tweak in the tailstock - dial that in, and then run a light pass. Your “grinding” of the piece may also be causing some issues as it runs against the follow...

Wow @Chicken lights - very cool!! And yep, all cast and then finished, probably by hand. Looks amazing!

@Susquatch - you are very correct, I worked on the water for 33 years and I love to fish but I don’t and never have owned a boat - LOL

@Susquatch : I have a spool gun for my welder. As this was pretty thick stuff I had it cranked up to 180 amps, argon gas and 0.030 Al Super Glaze 4043 The above pic is the stainless power box I bent up for the brains of the operation.

So my cousin needed a “tiller head” for his fish sonar. No better time than to mill up a big hunk of aluminum. This is a 3 inch x 4-1/4” piece of round stock: So after the above operations I used a slitting saw to slice a slot between the stainless cap screws so the piece would clamp...

I have a pdf of the manual and several other manuals on the tools. If you PM me with your emails I can set you up. I should be up and running mine in a few weeks. Sorting out the shop has taken quite a bit of time and the sharpener took a bit of a back seat.

That is a bummer. Mine is a 240 three phase. My cutter/grinder came from a small sharpening shop near Brantford so perhaps the motor had been changed? Since you need a new motor you can just go with a 120 or 220 single phase as the grinder should only run in one direction and the belt rail...

@JohnH : here is the listing for the belt. It is from ebay. They have increased $20 since I bought mine but it should be a one time only thing. As far as the motor goes it should be 3/4 Hp 240 V I believe and I have just a small VFD for mine. I will check on that and get back to you...

@TonyK - I can link You to the belt.

Sorry late to the game, but in any ship board install we have no, no threaded flange bolt holes. Has to be through holes and bolt with nut. Corrosion, cross treads, etc. you can also add butterfly valves that seal between flanges and only the flanges are bolted with the valve sandwiched.

Update: I used this to mill this: Everything went well until the three jaw chuck decided to come loose! Not the jaws but the thread on to the rotary head. Saved things but lesson learned. It worked great!

Hey @JohnH - I am just in the process of receiving a full set of oz32 collets that will allow me to get every endmill sharpened. If you have specific interest (pics) let me know and I will repost. It will take a bit as all pics are off into other folders.

@jstem4 - my one Utilathe has shims on the outer V to move the headstock and it corrected the lathe - great work!!

@skippyelwell - I have that tap on hand as I had to make that part a few years ago. Just saying….