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Tips/Techniques welding tabletop overhang
- Thread starter Canadium
- Start date
Tips/Techniques
Kind of depends on how thick the top is, and if you are beating on it with a 10 pound hammer.
I made mine with a 2 inch over hang on one side and 1.5 on the other, this was to allow using clamps to hold things while welding. While I will also tac/spot weld things to the table, it makes for extra clean up which may not be easily possible with larger, heavier projects on the table.
As my table top is only 1/4 inch and I don't plan on using anything bigger then 1lb. hammer, lightly on it. Ridgeity, is not great with this much over hang and thickness, but it's what I had. The legs weigh more then the top, 2X2 Sq.tube, 3/16 wall and the frame work give it some heft.
Nearly have the old leg vise all mounted with a receiver hitch setup mounted vertical so I can put my pipe chain vise on when needed. May put another receiver on/in to allow both to be mounted at same time, but as the top is only 2ftX4ft. it's a bit small.
Can foresee may need a hoist to remove the leg vise in the future.
May put a few holes in the top in the future, never had any in other tables, so not sure, and the other tables were much bigger and thicker. Though even they had at least 1.5 inch over hang.
Sometimes miss a 4ft.X8ft. table with a 1inch top, sometimes not.
I made mine with a 2 inch over hang on one side and 1.5 on the other, this was to allow using clamps to hold things while welding. While I will also tac/spot weld things to the table, it makes for extra clean up which may not be easily possible with larger, heavier projects on the table.
As my table top is only 1/4 inch and I don't plan on using anything bigger then 1lb. hammer, lightly on it. Ridgeity, is not great with this much over hang and thickness, but it's what I had. The legs weigh more then the top, 2X2 Sq.tube, 3/16 wall and the frame work give it some heft.
Nearly have the old leg vise all mounted with a receiver hitch setup mounted vertical so I can put my pipe chain vise on when needed. May put another receiver on/in to allow both to be mounted at same time, but as the top is only 2ftX4ft. it's a bit small.
Can foresee may need a hoist to remove the leg vise in the future.
May put a few holes in the top in the future, never had any in other tables, so not sure, and the other tables were much bigger and thicker. Though even they had at least 1.5 inch over hang.
Sometimes miss a 4ft.X8ft. table with a 1inch top, sometimes not.
My table is 30”x56” with a 1/4” SS top. I added 5/8” clamping holes on a 12” x 8” pattern. The overhang is zero on the back and sides and just 1” on the front. I was given this table by a downsizing friend. It had seen lots of use (and abuse) in a small fab shop. The front overhang is quite beat-up. I think 1” overhang is plenty for 1/4” plate and it is just enough for clamping.
As the saying goes “some is good, more is better” On my round-to-it list is adding twice as many clamping hold down holes.
The SS top is great but magnets don’t work - thus the need for more clamping holes. Also a mag drill only works if it is clamped down. I modified a small drill press (shortened the column) so that it can sorta replace a mag drill.
If I was building a new table from scratch - I’d start with a 3/8”thick plate of steel for the top. (Why 3/8” - to keep cost and weight down and also 1/4” is a bit thin for the hold down clamps to get a good & straight grip.)
IMO 1.5” overhang on front and both sides is enough for clamping. The overhang thickness of the top would be increased by adding 1/4”x2” angle to the underside of the plate as an overhang edge reinforcement. The clamping edge would only be a bit over 1.5” since the inside corner of the angle iron is not square.
The negative to the edge reinforcement is distortion from welding. I’d use small stitches at 18” centres & let it air cool. Then several intermediate stitches with cooling time. Experienced welders can chime in here for advice to help reduce distortion.
As the saying goes “some is good, more is better” On my round-to-it list is adding twice as many clamping hold down holes.
The SS top is great but magnets don’t work - thus the need for more clamping holes. Also a mag drill only works if it is clamped down. I modified a small drill press (shortened the column) so that it can sorta replace a mag drill.
If I was building a new table from scratch - I’d start with a 3/8”thick plate of steel for the top. (Why 3/8” - to keep cost and weight down and also 1/4” is a bit thin for the hold down clamps to get a good & straight grip.)
IMO 1.5” overhang on front and both sides is enough for clamping. The overhang thickness of the top would be increased by adding 1/4”x2” angle to the underside of the plate as an overhang edge reinforcement. The clamping edge would only be a bit over 1.5” since the inside corner of the angle iron is not square.
The negative to the edge reinforcement is distortion from welding. I’d use small stitches at 18” centres & let it air cool. Then several intermediate stitches with cooling time. Experienced welders can chime in here for advice to help reduce distortion.
MrWhoopee
Well-Known Member
I also inherited mine from a friend who was downsizing. It has a 1/2" top with 4" overhang. The overhang is much more than needed for clamping, but the top is thick enough that it doesn't cause any problems. The table was made from a machine base that was modified during manufacture. The top is blanchard ground and carefully adjusted flat on its frame. I use it exclusively for TIG and I never beat on it or tack anything to it. I would like to put some tapped holes in it for clamping, but I would probably have to buy a mag drill to do it.
Rent one.