Yup, should be fine. That’s generally about how I buy a machine. Strictly speaking it is cheap. Very like that it is 3 phase (unless it has been converted - in its’ original format it would be 3 phase), the voltage is ??. The two most common I have seen are the “200v” (anywhere from 208, to 240 and will run fine on a residential power + converter) and “600v” (which means 575v - so you’d need a PC and a transformer, not a big deal). Of course you could repower the unit (which I have not done) which seems like quite a bit of work compared to simply providing the nameplate requirement (which I have done quite a few times). If it is a 440v machine, it is very possible that the motors are dual voltage - pretty easy to sort out.
I question your comment that it is not useful for drilling with out having a quill. Lots of pretty high class mills have been made which do not have quill travel - obviously quill travel is nice to have, but certainly not a show stopper.
You are correct that you’d be on your own for parts - but as long as the main items are present, it is likely smaller issues can be addressed.
Yes, of course it may be clapped out, but your risk is extremely low; meaning it could be a complete boat anchor, but very unlikely (and your exposure is $2500 plus the moving cost). It certainly has plenty of rust.
I agree one should always inspect a machine under power. I have bought a thirteen machines, only two were powered when I checked them out (several were disassembled - rusty pieces of iron and boxes of parts ). Generally, if a machine is clean, rust free, powered and runs great - then it is out of my price range.
As a project machine, that one looks pretty straight forward, likely to be a decent running machine. Don’t kid yourself, it is a project and be prepared to spend time, effort and a bit of cash getting it sorted out.
Perhaps more to the point is whether you are comfortable with the size/weight space requirements and don’t mind doing some mechanical work. Let us know how you make out.
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