Tools You Can't Buy

terry_g

Ultra Member
I have a truck in the shop with Meritor Full Pressure hydraulic brakes. The brakes need to be bled after a component replacement.
The manual says not to manually bleed it it must be pressure bled. I need an adaptor to pressurise the brake reservoir. The Meritor manual
does not give a source for one and the Snap-On dealer can't supply one so I made one. I bought an 18" length of 2" round aluminium and
spent a couple hours machining the lock ring. It was a real pain machining the bayonet lugs. A 1/8" end mill running at 900 rpm. I cut a snap
ring groove in it to make it in two pieces.

1.jpg

The finished lock ring waiting for some final deburring. A little touch up with a file and the ring fit the reservoir perfectly.
2.jpg
Made the rest up and pressed it together. The manual says to put 35 PSI in the plastic reservoir and if you have difficulty bleeding the brakes raise
the pressure to 45 PSI. I think I will do that with the hood closed.

3.jpg

4.jpg
 

jcdammeyer

John
Premium Member
I have a truck in the shop with Meritor Full Pressure hydraulic brakes. The brakes need to be bled after a component replacement.
The manual says not to manually bleed it it must be pressure bled. I need an adaptor to pressurise the brake reservoir. The Meritor manual
does not give a source for one and the Snap-On dealer can't supply one so I made one. I bought an 18" length of 2" round aluminium and
spent a couple hours machining the lock ring. It was a real pain machining the bayonet lugs. A 1/8" end mill running at 900 rpm. I cut a snap
ring groove in it to make it in two pieces.

View attachment 36666

The finished lock ring waiting for some final deburring. A little touch up with a file and the ring fit the reservoir perfectly.
View attachment 36667
Made the rest up and pressed it together. The manual says to put 35 PSI in the plastic reservoir and if you have difficulty bleeding the brakes raise
the pressure to 45 PSI. I think I will do that with the hood closed.

View attachment 36668

View attachment 36669
Wow! Nicely done.
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
I think I will do that with the hood closed.

Too funny! But good idea!

Nice adapter! How did you do the taper on the locking ramps? Looks like a difficult feature to do without CNC. I picture a complicated setup with the lock ring at an angle to cut that ramp....... A great butt cheek leak test.
 

jcdammeyer

John
Premium Member
Too funny! But good idea!

Nice adapter! How did you do the taper on the locking ramps? Looks like a difficult feature to do without CNC. I picture a complicated setup with the lock ring at an angle to cut that ramp....... A great butt cheek leak test.
The one darker picture on the right shows what looks to be something lifting that side of the rotary table up a tiny bit. And there's a faint shadow on the bottom left under the rotary table. So I'd guess it's tilted.

Move tool under tab. Plunge to thickness depth. Turn until tool leaves tab. Raise tool. Rinse and repeat on the next.
 

terry_g

Ultra Member
The rotary table is not tilted it must just be the light. Being the adaptor seals in the neck
of the reservoir it doesn't need to have ramps to make it seal.
 
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