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I’m working on a project that requires a whole bunch of 3/8” UNC holes in 3/4” thick mild steel plate. I recently acquired a Big Daishowa ACCU412 tapping head.
Tapping head has a JT6-MT2 tanged shaft. My mill is MT3. So I’ve ordered a JT6-MT3 shaft for use with a drawbar. Snag is I can’t get the existing shaft off the tapping head, and I’m worried about trusting a tanged MT2-MT3 sleeve under the forward and reverse load under power tapping.
Am I safe using a sleeve, or should I bite the bullet and spend the money ($40) to get the proper JT6 removal wedge so I can use the drawbar arbor?
You might be safe with the sleeve, but I wouldn't. Assuming it's not an integrated arbour, I'd swap out the old MT taper for the bigger one in a heart beat.
I agree with @ChazzC, the tapered wedges work great. I even made a few CRings out of washers to take up the space that existed on a few of my tools. It would be great to buy the right arbours for all my tools, but my ancestors brought a few red headed Scottish Girls home with them and I'm pretty sure I have a little Scottish blood in my viking veins, so I share arbours when I can. The wedges get lots of work. They are great tools. I don't use a hammer - I just put the wedge and arbour assembly in my shop vise, squeeze them together, and off they come!
In general, we all know tapers can slip without a compressive load. Bigger is always better when it comes to Morse and Jacobs Tapers.
Proper wedges are hardened steel so they can be used repeatedly. For limited use, you can make your own! Mill (similar) tapers on each piece and have at it.
I was gunna mention this but didn't. So I'm glad Craig did. For the first time I needed them, I made my own out of plain steel washers. The wedge Jaws simply spread apart. The steel has to be high strength. This is not a time to cheap out with the steel. After my first failure, I simply bought the high strength wedges and smiled. I did make a constant thickness C - style spacer out of a washer though and it worked fine because it sees no spreading forces.
Proper wedges are hardened steel so they can be used repeatedly. For limited use, you can make your own! Mill (similar) tapers on each piece and have at it.
Yes, I was concerned about the plastic wedges, but the width of the Echo ones may be worth a try, my wedges are hardened and purchased long enough ago that they reasonable so I think I also have some for arbors I don’t (yet) have.
