Not really a project...more of a learning experience. I experimented with hot forge riveting after reading about Titanic failure theories in the late 1980's because I was so curious about how the plates were originally sealed in Ireland. I was surprized to learn that they weren't "sealed" as we today think about it—but rather "caulked" using a method of pulling the faying edges against each other. They were not in fact "caulked with sealant" or hammered with oakum or other materials like they did in the wooden shipbuilding days. When I learned why aircraft are still riveted as opposed to welded, I branched into solid riveting.
I used to work night shift as a security guard at the old NOVA Service Centre on Blackfoot Trail when I was in university, and the old guys in the shops used to teach me cool stuff. One was rivet strength in their lab and I was shocked how strong these little things really were. They had a non-destructive lab and I geeked out when these techs worked overtime and showed me their work. There's some math involved in rivet selection, which I kinda like. Here's a great tutorial that gives all the formulas:
The paper you see in the RedBox tool kit is actually my formula sheet; it's critical to getting a proper fit and you can't just wing it here. The only real wiggle room here is with respect to the initial drill size (in 32nds). In the aircraft industry this is critical. But for your average metal worker it isn't as critical as rivet head size, diameter and length.
The fun part arose when years later when I saw how Steampunk solid rivets look, which I liked. I use lots of pop (blind) rivets, but there is a cool place in a workshop for solid rivets, especially if you do artistic stuff. I tried manual hammering in the 90's and got OK results. I borrowed a old air tool years later and liked that even better. So I bought my own from Aircraft Spruce Canada a few months ago and now love it. If you haven't tried this company, they are worth a look. Canadian to the core, killer shipping times, and great tools!
Photos attached. Note that Aircraft Spruce Canada only sells aircraft type rivets (AL and anodized AL) but lots of others are available online: brass, copper, steel, etc. Lots of options. I have the RedBox 737 kit, which I really like. Guns come 2X, 3X and 4X.
I used to work night shift as a security guard at the old NOVA Service Centre on Blackfoot Trail when I was in university, and the old guys in the shops used to teach me cool stuff. One was rivet strength in their lab and I was shocked how strong these little things really were. They had a non-destructive lab and I geeked out when these techs worked overtime and showed me their work. There's some math involved in rivet selection, which I kinda like. Here's a great tutorial that gives all the formulas:
The paper you see in the RedBox tool kit is actually my formula sheet; it's critical to getting a proper fit and you can't just wing it here. The only real wiggle room here is with respect to the initial drill size (in 32nds). In the aircraft industry this is critical. But for your average metal worker it isn't as critical as rivet head size, diameter and length.
The fun part arose when years later when I saw how Steampunk solid rivets look, which I liked. I use lots of pop (blind) rivets, but there is a cool place in a workshop for solid rivets, especially if you do artistic stuff. I tried manual hammering in the 90's and got OK results. I borrowed a old air tool years later and liked that even better. So I bought my own from Aircraft Spruce Canada a few months ago and now love it. If you haven't tried this company, they are worth a look. Canadian to the core, killer shipping times, and great tools!
Photos attached. Note that Aircraft Spruce Canada only sells aircraft type rivets (AL and anodized AL) but lots of others are available online: brass, copper, steel, etc. Lots of options. I have the RedBox 737 kit, which I really like. Guns come 2X, 3X and 4X.
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