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Round Column Mill DRO upgrade.

Hi Folks,

Some background for this project:

I have a Rongfu round column mill that I purchased on Kijiji some few years. It was in fair condition and there was no motor or control system. The previous owner intended to install a CNC controller but couldn't get it to work and decided to sell the machine as is.

First, I completely stripped it down so that I could repaint it in my preferred machine tool colour: grey! After reassembly everything seemed to work OK save the main table feed screw.

The table would bind when it was moved over to the right side. There was (still is) some kind of misalignment between the lead screw and the handwheel mounts. I'm suspisous that some pieces may have been cobbled from a different machine, because the mounting holes don't line up well, and one of the cap screws goes in at an angle that is noticeably not 90 degrees. The quickest solution for me was to leave one of the handwheel mounting plates off on the left side. Not great, but it works.

I purchased a motor from PA and used a magnetic starter that I had lying around. The lack of a reverse function hasn't bothered me so far - no power tapping on this one.

The draw bolt for the spindle was an absolute embarassment, so I had to remake it.

The column lock was done with a couple of bolts that were so spalled that they were hard to turn with a wrench. I replaced them with new, and made a lock handle to mimick the spindle lock handle. The new handle feels just right.

Next I made a mobile cabinet to mount it all on. My basement shop is fairly small (400 sqft) so most of my machines (save the table saw) are on wheels so that I can get them out of the way when I need to. There's enough space in the drawers to hold all of the tooling, etc.

With those mods done the machine was getting near daily use. But the backlash in the lead screw, and having to count (and keep track of) handwheel revolutions in my head was bothering me. I decided that I needed a DRO to make things easier and I found one with really small sensors that I could fit under the table. I didn't want to mount something in front (blocking the limit stops - which I use a lot) or behind (reducing y-axis travel). I found that I could affix a magnetic scale directly to the underside of the table and that there was just enough headroom under the table for a sensor to sit right next to the main leadscrew nut. With this arrangement, the mill operation wasn’t changed in any way. The ‘y’ axis was dead easy, so ‘nuff said. The ‘z’ axis was handled by mounting the scale inside the machine head behind the spindle. All that has worked really well for a couple of years.

More recently, I mounted a different type of DRO on my lathe. Having used both for a while I really prefer some of its features on the newer DRO, and I now plan to install the newer system on the mill. The main issue is that the new DRO uses sensors that are quite a bit larger than the old one, so I’ll have to do some surgery this time to make it fit the way I want on the x-axis. The y and z axis should fit pretty well with just new mounting plates.

This thread will document this project.

First a pic of the machine in question:
Mill overall.jpg
 
Why can't you move the wheel anchor to where it needs to be and then drill and tap for the new (proper) location?

Are you sure the original nut (or a replacement) wasn't offset to create the end binding?
 
The offending offset seems to be pretty small, so old/new hole positions would overlap. I would probably need to remake the plate with new hole locations to do the job right, and decided to just leave it until it proved a problem,… which it hasn’t so far.

Besides, I acquired a brand new feed system at auction for a steal. Doesn’t fit this machine out of the box (looks like it is set up for a Bridgeport), so I’ll have to create a custom mounting plate for it anyhow. That job will see this misalignment straightened out. A future project.
 
If you already have scales mounted to your mill but want to upgrade capability with a different dro display, have a look at touch dro? Its ability is really amazing and allows you to pre program coordinates. And a whole pile of other abilities normal dro do not have. Really like your rolling base.
 
I did look at the TouchDRO, but they don't list the sensors as being supported. The sensors came as a package with the small 3-axis DRO that I bought initially, and are dedicated, I think.

[edit] ... and I tried disassembling the plug for the existing sensors and reading the outputs to try to get them to read on my newer (more standard) DRO display: no success.[/edit]
 
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The new sensors a taller than the headroom under the table, so I'm going to have to machine a small pocket for the x-axis sensor to sit in. The right tool for that job is a milling machine :/
 
The new sensors a taller than the headroom under the table, so I'm going to have to machine a small pocket for the x-axis sensor to sit in. The right tool for that job is a milling machine :/
Yeah, the old problem of needing a mill to work on the mill!

On Youtube, the NZ guy (can never remember the channel name) did no small amount of work add milling capacity to his lathe. Including adapting the dividing head to use in place of the tailstock. Pretty ingenious!

OTOH, maybe somebody in your neck of the woods could just let you use their mill!

Craig
 
Looking good. I did a lot of upgrades to my LC30 mill that made it more user friendly:
DRO
Motorized head lift
Thrust washers for head locking
Permanent levers for head locking
VFD
Parallel guide bars to maintain registration when lifting the head
Full CNC
Custom control interface.

After all that I sold it to pay for a small knee mill.
96B4F076-82E7-4821-89ED-7974F23AA6BF.jpeg
 
Made a hugh difference. My mill was in a location that made it difficult to get access to the head locking nuts. I would constantly drop the big wrench when loosening/tightening. So I made longer permanent levers and added the thrust bearings under the nut. I could tighten with very little force. Levers look pretty haphazard but worked really well.
Levers-small.jpg
 
Nope, everything is dry under the table. I thought of pulling the y-axis saddle and making a seal under the new cavity, but I don’t think there is any need to do so.
 
I have the same type King PDM-30 and would like to do the same. Will be getting ideas and hope to get started this year. Still trying to see what DRO's from china that people on here have had good luck with. Will also try to do that to my CX706 lathe
 
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