Rotary Table Disassembly help

V

van123d

Well-Known Member
I just acquired a 10" Liang Yu Rotary table that I am trying to disassemble and clean. I have hit an issue where I am at the point where all fasteners have been removed that I can see, and either the table needs to come off or the worm gear needs to pull out but neither are budging. The worm gear has pulled out about an inch but thats as far as I can get it to go. Does anybody have any ideas what I am missing here?

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The table before disassembly started.

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Bottom after removing backplate, spanner nut and bearings. That upper race probably could be removed but I have no way of getting purchase on it. I have tried tapping on the shaft with a wooden block to see if the table starts to separate but I am hesitant to give it more than a light tap.


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Worm gear pulled out about an inch. Very tight to move in either direction right now.

I am stuck right now so I appreciate any suggestions.
 
Dabbler

Dabbler

ersatz engineer
If it is the normal type, the worm gear backlash adjustment needs to come off next. (unless I'm misunderstanding)

-- are you in the Calgary area? I could come over...

FWIW getting it back together is harder. My old 6" the YYCHM has now, took me hours to get it back together perfectly... There's something tricky, but I just cannot remember what it is. Gets me every time!
 
YYCHM

YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
Dabbler said:
FWIW getting it back together is harder. My old 6" the YYCHM has now, took me hours to get it back together perfectly... There's something tricky, but I just cannot remember what it is. Gets me every time!
Click to expand...

Ya, tell me about it:rolleyes: I took it apart to figure out how to adjust the table drag. Was a PITA to put back together and get the drag to where I wanted it.
 
Darren

Darren

Ultra Member
Premium Member
I still have to take my 12" table apart to clean it after resurfacing the table. Doesn't look too bad to do.
 
Tom Kitta

Tom Kitta

Ultra Member
I taken two 6" apart. Had no issues taking them apart and putting them together. Maybe 10" is different?

The top should just come off - it may need a little persuasion. The top part at least in 6" just rests on the worm gear. The bottom plate is what gives it "tension". the bottom part may be just tight fitting or rusted.
 
V

van123d

Well-Known Member
Thank you everyone for the suggestions.

I went out late last night and I was able to finally get it. Congratulations to Tom Kitta for being the person to correctly guess the correct solution. A bigger hammer. I am always hesitant to resort to brute force as usually it means I have missed a set screw or something locking everything in place but in this case it was the solution.

I am looking forward to see how this cleans up. When I saw the ad for this rotary table I thought it was fairly rusty but now that I have it in hand, most of what I thought was rust seems to be a heavy grease coating that has dried onto the surface. From the teardown the only obvious issue is the big main roller bearing has some cogging and will need to be replaced.
 
Gearhead88

Gearhead88

Super User
van123d said:
Thank you everyone for the suggestions.

I went out late last night and I was able to finally get it. Congratulations to Tom Kitta for being the person to correctly guess the correct solution. A bigger hammer. I am always hesitant to resort to brute force as usually it means I have missed a set screw or something locking everything in place but in this case it was the solution.

I am looking forward to see how this cleans up. When I saw the ad for this rotary table I thought it was fairly rusty but now that I have it in hand, most of what I thought was rust seems to be a heavy grease coating that has dried onto the surface. From the teardown the only obvious issue is the big main roller bearing has some cogging and will need to be replaced.
Click to expand...
I spent several years working as a Heavy duty Mechanic , anytime things got jambed , stuck , siezed etc , you'd hear someone shout from across the shop PUT DOWN YOUR PURSE , that would usually bring out the larger hammer and beating iron
 
H

Hacker

Super User
van123d said:
Thank you everyone for the suggestions.

I went out late last night and I was able to finally get it. Congratulations to Tom Kitta for being the person to correctly guess the correct solution. A bigger hammer. I am always hesitant to resort to brute force as usually it means I have missed a set screw or something locking everything in place but in this case it was the solution.

I am looking forward to see how this cleans up. When I saw the ad for this rotary table I thought it was fairly rusty but now that I have it in hand, most of what I thought was rust seems to be a heavy grease coating that has dried onto the surface. From the teardown the only obvious issue is the big main roller bearing has some cogging and will need to be replaced.
Click to expand...
It took me a while to learn the difference between rust and old coolant with grime and a light patina of rust. LOL
 
V

van123d

Well-Known Member
Hacker said:
It took me a while to learn the difference between rust and old coolant with grime and a light patina of rust. LOL
Click to expand...

Yes when I first scratched it expecting the usual scratchy rust feel I was surprised when it was more gummy. I do not know what this stuff was but it is unlike any old grease or oil I have come across. It is difficult to remove even with solvents and it worked better than any sleeve retaining compound ever could. Freeing the dials was a similar exercise in heat/brute force to get moving again.
 
trlvn

trlvn

Ultra Member
van123d said:
the only obvious issue is the big main roller bearing has some cogging and will need to be replaced.
Click to expand...
Rotary tables don't usually do all that many rotations in their life. I'll bet a donut that if you wash it out with solvent it will function just fine.

Craig
(Mmmmm, donut!)
 
V

van123d

Well-Known Member
trlvn said:
Rotary tables don't usually do all that many rotations in their life. I'll bet a donut that if you wash it out with solvent it will function just fine.

Craig
(Mmmmm, donut!)
Click to expand...

I hope you are right, I wont get to that bearing for a couple of days as I needed to order a pin wrench to get the preload nut off first.
 
V

van123d

Well-Known Member
Well just to update. Unfortunately no amount of cleaning got the bearing to smooth out. It was still cogging the same as before. Likely some grease stuck inside the bearing somewhere I could not get at. Luckily the local bearing shop had a replacement in stock and sold it to me at a good discount. When I first saw this rotary table I had expected to be doing a de-rust and paint. In the end it was mostly just a heavy dried grease on the surface and underneath the condition was surprisingly good. It is no show queen but plenty good to be put back into service as is. As everyone likes photos here is the completed clean up.

unnamed (6).jpg


Does anyone know if there is a specific type of oiler for those oil ports? Just trying to use my standard oiler it seems more difficult than it should be to force oil in and the ball seals are not stuck.
Thanks everyone for the help and suggestions.
 
RobinHood

RobinHood

Ultra Member
Premium Member
Anything that builds high pressure and seals well to the Gits style oil cup should work.

Like this:

1647122574303.jpeg

bigamart.com

High Pressure Lathe Mill Oil Gun Petroleum Precision Oiler Pump Action Model Engineering - BigaMart

British Made High PressureSteel ConstructionLathe Service Item
bigamart.com bigamart.com

I presume you cleaned out all the oil passages when you rebuilt the RT?

Oil can be tough to get into close tolerance plain bearings. Sometimes rotating the table while oiling makes it easier. Also, a lighter weight oil might be better to get it into the tiny spaces of a scraped surface.
 
H

Hacker

Super User
van123d said:
Well just to update. Unfortunately no amount of cleaning got the bearing to smooth out. It was still cogging the same as before. Likely some grease stuck inside the bearing somewhere I could not get at. Luckily the local bearing shop had a replacement in stock and sold it to me at a good discount. When I first saw this rotary table I had expected to be doing a de-rust and paint. In the end it was mostly just a heavy dried grease on the surface and underneath the condition was surprisingly good. It is no show queen but plenty good to be put back into service as is. As everyone likes photos here is the completed clean up.

View attachment 21907


Does anyone know if there is a specific type of oiler for those oil ports? Just trying to use my standard oiler it seems more difficult than it should be to force oil in and the ball seals are not stuck.
Thanks everyone for the help and suggestions.
Click to expand...
Nice job of cleaning it up.
For oiling I use these:
1647179298290.png

They can be bought at Canadian Tire for 10.49. I use them for way oil as well as ISO 68 and they work great. Seal up on the gits fairly well.
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-oiler-500-ml-0282510p.html?_br_psugg_q=oil+can
 
Susquatch

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
V

van123d

Well-Known Member
Thanks, I am trying to use a small golden rod oiler with way oil. It is similar to that Canadian Tire oiler linked above but with a rigid stem instead of flexible. It seems to have trouble forcing the oil through. The passages are clear and the balls move easily so maybe the oil viscosity is just too high. I will try and find one of those pump style oiler with the finer tip on it and see if that works better. Otherwise I can try a lighter weight oil.
 
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