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Revisiting single points conversion. XS650.

toglhot

just a Backyard Butcher.
I previously made a points cam from 304 stainless, which seems to wear alright, but my research revealed phosphor bronze to be the best material for wear against fibreglass laminate epoxy, depending on where you research of course. The original single ramp cam was made of carbon steel. Despite the research, I had my doubts the phosphor bronze would wear as well, so, decided to make one in carbon steel first. I have several old lathe dead centres so I cut a small section off the end of one, annealed it and formed the cam. That came up excellent, timing of points opening and closing and dwell on both ramps was spot on.

Now I've done some blacksmithing many years ago, mostly knives, so I was aware that heating and hardening/tempering does warp, stretch, swell, shrink the metal to some degree. Knives and stuff like that the warping is not enough to affect the finished product, however, the points cam has to have very tight variances in sizing, .02mm out means one side of the cam will give a points gap of .013, while the other .011. Doesn't sound like much but that points gap also affects the opening and closing of the points and therefore the dwell of the points, so, the timing of the ramps could vary 5+ degrees., that'a a guess by the way, I never actually measured it.
With this in mind when I heated the cam I did it as carefully as I could just using a torch and rotating the cam as I went. I then quenched it, cleaned it up, assembled it on the advance rod and checked the points timing - terrible. The heating threw the sizing out by up to .05 mm, close but not close enough, so that carbon steel attempt went in the bin.

I went to my exotics shop the next day and bought some phosphor bronze, some aluminium bronze and some cast iron. The AB and cast iron were as cheap as, but the PB was not: $30 for a piece of 25mm about 3" long was $30. For stock, I bought a few pieces of PB, one piece of AB and one of cast iron for an all up cost of $150. Machining is not a cheap hobby.

Anyway I spent an afternoon making another cam from PB, it came up nicely, but I have my doubts it will wear even as well as the stainless, it is super easy to work and seems much softer than the stainless. Still my research revealed fibreglass laminate epoxy rubbing on PB was the best, possibly due to the lubricating properties of PB. Time will tell.

I still have some cast iron and some AB, so at a later date I may try these metals out as well.

I used the mill this time to form the ramps, first filing a flat on the cam in the appropriate position, then vicing that on the mill, milling a flat 180.degrees opposite, then turning over 180 degrees again and milling the filed section to make it perfectly flat and the same thickness either side. To give you an idea how important sizing is on a points cam, the difference in thickness of the two ramps, ie, from the central hole to the face of the ramp, was .01mm, but that threw the timing out considerably on one side, so I finished off by rubbing the flat on 240 grit emery.

Anyhow, here's the PB cam, nicely polished.
 

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With this in mind when I heated the cam I did it as carefully as I could just using a torch and rotating the cam as I went. I then quenched it, cleaned it up, assembled it on the advance rod and checked the points timing - terrible. The heating threw the sizing out by up to .05 mm, close but not close enough, so that carbon steel attempt went in the bin.
I wonder what the native cam was made of? If was something like 4140 with minimal carbon % you may have stood a chance by re-heat & quench presuming you didn't manage to remove carbon in the process. If it was something like mild steel & factory surface hardened (and now worn through) then heat & quench would have no effect. Typically bronze makes a happy surface alongside steel or cast iron not because of relative hardness but its anti-galling (copper & some tin), some lubricity, it better handles micro debris & corrosion resistance. But I think in most cases it is the designated sacrificial part of the two. I dunno, maybe in a distributor there are other electrical insulator related pros & cons to certain material combinations. Or 'wear dust' is a generally a bad thing inside the sparky housing. I didn't think stainless was a particularly good 'wear' material & actually not as strong as 4140. But it is corrosion resistant. Laminate materials can do a number on metal. Its a near perfect abrasive - very hard glass or equivalent does the scrubbing & within an epoxy matrix which keeps the abrasive exposed & holds onto even more residue dust junk. Well its cool you made a replacement. good luck!
 
The original cam despite being 50 years old showed absolutely no wear, could have been surface hardened I suppose, but I'd put my money of carbon steel of some sort.
The dead centre I used was carbon steel, the deposit left after quenching proved difficult to remove which also could have affected sizing, particularly in the 7.97 bore, that was difficult to remove, and could have enlarged the hole, I never measured.
I still intend on trying some AB and some cast iron I bought for the job. I may even try some 316 stainless. 316 is a bugger to work with as stainless work hardens, 316 more so than 304, which could work in its favour for this job.
 
303 is a lot more forgiving to machine than 316 / 304. If you want better, 416 SS is nice. Slightly less corrosion resistant because other elements are added & less chromium. But your distributor should be a pretty dry environment. I don't think I would use work hardening as a useful byproduct to the end result hardness. When you have materials like that, its also more challenging to hit precise dimensions & surface finish. You can get pretty good dimensional/surface results with tool steel like O1 & still side step post-grinding which is how most 'through-hardening' parts are made. Or machine it directly from semi-hard 4xxx series which can be lapped to a mirror. Or a lower carbon alloy but use a surface hardening compound which is lower temp & might be enough to withstand wear. I think the leaded alloys like 12L14 should be avoided with this in mind, but I've have to check.

1756140072484.png1756140101053.png
 
Hmm, my exotics. Shop is not as exotic as it coould be. Stainless, 304 or 316, that's it. Looking at the charts, I think the go might be cast iron or bronze.
Do you have any similar charts for aluminium. i use 6061, but can get other grades. After something that doesn't weather as badly As 6061.
A link to these charts would be nice, my googling has not revealed any of these charts.
 
My PDF where those screen grabs came from has a different color than this but I think its the same

I don't have an aluminum document but this one turned up in a search. Interesting I always preferred 2024 over 6061 but maybe there are more parameters. You might have to dig into what makes up that metric.

1756162043673.png
 
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