I have a shaft that got wore down .375, no chance of taking it out and welding and turning it in the lathe. 16ft long with a 4 ft dia reel welded to it. The plan is to use Belzona metal to repair the shaft, i have used this stuff before but not on as big a repair. Have any of the collective wise dome done a repair this deep using a similar method? The reel runs on a bronze bushing that gets greased so it doesn't run fast but all day long, reel is on a New Holland hay bine.
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Repair shaft with quick metal?
- Thread starter 6.5 Fan
- Start date
I have no wisdom on this -- replying to let you know it was read 
I have experienced similar type situations while helping out on my buddies farm...... I was surprised by the amount of hex shafting inside a modern Case combine..... and how often it seems to fail.....
Good luck
I have experienced similar type situations while helping out on my buddies farm...... I was surprised by the amount of hex shafting inside a modern Case combine..... and how often it seems to fail.....Good luck
DPittman
Ultra Member
No I was waiting to hear your report. It must be pretty good stuff to last with rotational forces and wear, even with good lubrication.
DPittman
Ultra Member
The nature if the repair I'd stated in post #1
historicalarms
Ultra Member
Actually its not much of a description to analyze an alternative repair...is the shaft wore at the bushing site or is there something else causing the wear.
Two fixes i have seen on old farm equipment that might help the situation.
The first is to cut the shaft completely off right at the reel if there is an inch of room or so. Weld a completely new section of shaft appropriately sized to the bushing...angle grind the weld smooth as you can and finish up with a file...no lathe necessary.
The second recommendation is to look at moving the bushing collar down the shaft to new shaft metal . i have seen this done a couple of times if there is clearance from other framework of the machine....might only involve a jack-jig being built with a couple of bolt holes in it.
Two fixes i have seen on old farm equipment that might help the situation.
The first is to cut the shaft completely off right at the reel if there is an inch of room or so. Weld a completely new section of shaft appropriately sized to the bushing...angle grind the weld smooth as you can and finish up with a file...no lathe necessary.
The second recommendation is to look at moving the bushing collar down the shaft to new shaft metal . i have seen this done a couple of times if there is clearance from other framework of the machine....might only involve a jack-jig being built with a couple of bolt holes in it.
Shaft was worn .375" where the bushings run, approx 2.5" in length, the reel turns slow and it looks like the bushings have worn out over several years eventually wearing thru the block holding the bushings as well. Unit is a reel on a hay bine, 16' in length 4' in dia, not easily removable so welding the worn spot is not an option. Used a epoxy type of repair from a company called Belzona out in Calgary, different grades of epoxy for different repairs. Not even sure they are still around. It would be nice if my phone talked to my computer i might have been able to post some pics. Not a lot of room to move the spot the bushings run on the shaft, solid plate on one side 2.5' dia and the drive pully on the other side of the bushings. Shaft is not removable from the reel, these are welded as a unit in the factory. Nothing that trading the machine with 20 thousand for a upgraded machine.
historicalarms
Ultra Member
Just mussing yesterday afternoon about your predicament and the weather we are getting right now. Don't know what its like were your at but here it is "haying weather" in the extreme. I'm sure, if we used a haybine crimper, we could cut one day, roll it at noon the next and bale before dark.... I bet the horse hay guys ae having the best year for a long time, should be no dust or mildew at all . Even hay done the old way with just a plain swather could be baled in 3 days i'm betting.
New Holland 116, worn pillow block is on left side behind shield and drive pully. Yes hay can be baled without sitting out more than a day, big problem is quantity. Cold dry May means a short stand of hay, brome grass in the ditches is only 12 to 15" high instead of 3' tall.
Is the stub shaft that comes out of the LH reel side solid? I would try and do a weld build up. Then grind it down to original shaft size. Replace (or make) the bushing [18]. [17] is the pillow block, correct?
https://avspare.com/catalog/newholland/51058/5466953/175997/
If you leave the RH side connected and support the LH side on rollers (so an assistant can rotate the reel) do a weld build-up. Then carefully grind the excess weld down. I would use a washer as a rough gage. As you get closer, switch to a sanding disk (more controlled material removal). Keep turning the reel as you “massage” the part to size. You should be able to get the shaft quite round with this method. Certainly good enough to fit the bronze bearing. Keeping it well lubed should give a lasting repair.
https://avspare.com/catalog/newholland/51058/5466953/175997/
If you leave the RH side connected and support the LH side on rollers (so an assistant can rotate the reel) do a weld build-up. Then carefully grind the excess weld down. I would use a washer as a rough gage. As you get closer, switch to a sanding disk (more controlled material removal). Keep turning the reel as you “massage” the part to size. You should be able to get the shaft quite round with this method. Certainly good enough to fit the bronze bearing. Keeping it well lubed should give a lasting repair.