I don't plasma cut frequently, but I have been recently, while modifying my workbench. I've narrowed the bench and was ready to cut down the 1/8" top, so I did a few test cuts to setup the machine. Air pressure is right in the middle green LED (Hypertherm T45). I tried currents from 25-35 and different travel speeds at each current, but my cuts aren't penetrating. Do I just need a new electrode and shield on the torch?
-
Scam Alert. Members are reminded to NOT send money to buy anything. Don't buy things remote and have it shipped - go get it yourself, pay in person, and take your equipment with you. Scammers have burned people on this forum. Urgency, secrecy, excuses, selling for friend, newish members, FUD, are RED FLAGS. A video conference call is not adequate assurance. Face to face interactions are required. Please report suspicions to the forum admins. Stay Safe - anyone can get scammed.
Plasma cut quality
- Thread starter ColinB
- Start date
FatherWes
Wes
Why not up the amps to 45?
Personally, I’d try to start at an edge or a hole. If you have to start on a flat surface, angle the torch so the slag is blown away from the cut until you get full penetration. Once you’ve got full penetration and the slag is blowing out the bottom, the start moving, allowing full penetration all along the cut as you proceed.
I find cutting without full penetration just fouls up my tip pretty quickly.
Compare your electrode with a new one. If the old one has a much larger or elongated hole, replace and try a cut again.
EDIT
I agree with both of Tom O’s suggestions. Looking closer at your cut, it looks like the slag is not being blown out —> more air. And yeah, check the ground (It’s always a bad ground…). And I believe you can get a pretty nasty zap if you become the ground.
Personally, I’d try to start at an edge or a hole. If you have to start on a flat surface, angle the torch so the slag is blown away from the cut until you get full penetration. Once you’ve got full penetration and the slag is blowing out the bottom, the start moving, allowing full penetration all along the cut as you proceed.
I find cutting without full penetration just fouls up my tip pretty quickly.
Compare your electrode with a new one. If the old one has a much larger or elongated hole, replace and try a cut again.
EDIT
I agree with both of Tom O’s suggestions. Looking closer at your cut, it looks like the slag is not being blown out —> more air. And yeah, check the ground (It’s always a bad ground…). And I believe you can get a pretty nasty zap if you become the ground.
Last edited:
I have a Lotos 40, with no pilot arc start. It uses the drag style castellated tip. The last time I used it, I was getting a lot of slag on the back side and inconsistent cutting. I tried different cutting speeds, currents and air pressure with no luck. After I replace the castellated tip I got a much better consistent cut.
I have a Hypertherm 45XP - I don’t know the 45T model you mentioned but my 45XP will cut through 1/2”or even 5/8” with ease and cleanly. I agree with all the comments and suggestions above.
Other than the obvious importance of using new consumables, a good ground and clean dry air is often overlooked.
Other than the obvious importance of using new consumables, a good ground and clean dry air is often overlooked.
Ground moved to a more bare area. I've got good compressor capacity (vertical 2hp, 10cfm, on 220v) which switches on at 90 psi, local regulator (set to 87) and trap (It's dry) and the T45 power supply (requires 80+ psi) built in regulator set so that the built in gauge is in the green (I've now also tried raising to the high end of that).
My cut has dross but going as steadily and not too slowly (makes a wide kerf), it's usable with a little angle grinder touch-up.
The electrode has a just visibly out of round orifice and quite a bit of wear on the castellated cap. I'm going to order a new set for future cutting.
My cut has dross but going as steadily and not too slowly (makes a wide kerf), it's usable with a little angle grinder touch-up.
The electrode has a just visibly out of round orifice and quite a bit of wear on the castellated cap. I'm going to order a new set for future cutting.
It definitely kicks up from the pilot to a plasma jet. It does cut, but then tends to fill in behind the cut. The last inch of cut, before I stop, is always quite clean.
Yes, I was thinking non OEM would be fine. I'm still working out the subtleties.