Parts Washer Solvent

[thestelster]

On a regular basis, every couple days, I have to disassemble firearms, put all the parts into a parts washer and scrub clean.

For 30+ years I've had my bare hands in that parts washer full of Varsol. I've tried to use gloves, latex and nitrile gloves, but the majority of the parts being washed are quite small, and I can't feel or control those parts with gloves on.

What non-toxic parts washer/degreaser which is affordable and does as good a job as Varsol do you guys recommend?

 

[6.5 Fan]

Varsol has been my goto cleaner for many years. I have tried other water mixable cleaner/solvents like simple green but was disappointed with the results.

 

[DPittman]

I've always used varsol in the parts washer. I also use gasoline in a pan/bucket outside when I have some major degreasing to do. I know neither are likely the best thing to bathe in but have done it for years.

I used to be suspicious of the water based cleaning fluids in fear that they just would be inadequate but I've seen recommendations for them on this forum. I think Simple Green was one of the brand names suggested and I believe @Dabbler had something else he liked. I think next time I need to change out the varsol in my parts cleaner I will try one of the water based less toxic options.

 

[Former Member]

Depends on what I'm doing and cleaning. If cleaning like @thestelster I use a mix of kerosene mixed with Hoppes #9 for initial soak followed up with Breakfree CLP.

Lube Breakfree CLP - almost everything.

Other parts again depending on application.

Mr Muscle Oven cleaner (yellow can) baked on and grease.
Lanolin clean (no grit), great for about everything (soft on hands) oilly.
Laundry Soap (great for oil removal).
Dawn.
WD40 on occasion for wipe downs.
Cooking oil. (De skunking a dog, oil to suspend the scent (oil based), Dawn to wash the oil (scented) out, one maybe to treats required, dog smells great again). Again this oil helps with all oil based grime, but requires a 2 part approach.

Sometimes multiple combinations of the above. You have to know what you are trying to remove and the sequence that is most effective with the least negative impact.

Varsol is one of my least choices as it is a neuro-toxin is readily aborbed through the skin.

 

[Susquatch]

I use low odour varsol cuz it works.

I sometimes use diesel oil inside in very small quantities.

Like you, I use gasoline outside. Lots of fluids are just as effective, but gasoline is always handy.

When things get snarky and stubborn on me, I use brake cleaner outside.

I spent a huge chunk of my career chasing environmental and safety stuff. Sometimes people (both users and regulators) are stupid - in both directions. Can't fix stupid.

 

[Dabbler]

While the oil and swarf mixture has some 'moisture' left I find that both simple green and purple power give decent results. Zep Canada used to have a degreaser labeled something like '5285' that worked even better, but they have rebranded their products into "Purple" and Citrus". They have a degreaser that is branded "505", but I have no idea if that is the same one.

None of these products will get rid of the fully dried oil/swarf mix, or the thin black dried oil deposits.

My go-to for that is xylene and a brass brush. Caution: most 'brass' brushes are carbon steel with a brass coating - great for scratching your ways and machines, but very abrasive. JohnN and I have used to good effect soft steel brushes in a drill chuck to remove stuff quickly. This works best on surfaces that are pitted by rust and gunk.

Any of these requires protective barriers. xylene needs breathing and eye protection in addition EVEN IF YOU DO IT OUTSIDE. Xylene attaches to the water molecules in your eyes, and enters your blood stream from there. Besides being cancerous, xylene does quite a bit of tissue damage once inside you.

 

[Proxule]

DIesel?

 

[DPittman]

DIesel?

Ya I'd think that would just add to the oily mess.

 

[thestelster]

Remember, I need to have my bare hands in the stuff for 30-60 minutes at a time! And used indoors (garage).

I know that I haven't died from using Varsol for 30 years, but who knows the effects of long term exposure.

Though, I haven't kicked the bucket, I'm pretty sure I've killed a whole whack of brain cells, and my liver has probably been working overtime!! (From a number of other reasons too!!)

 

[Proxule]

While the oil and swarf mixture has some 'moisture' left I find that both simple green and purple power give decent results. Zep Canada used to have a degreaser labeled something like '5285' that worked even better, but they have rebranded their products into "Purple" and Citrus". They have a degreaser that is branded "505", but I have no idea if that is the same one.

None of these products will get rid of the fully dried oil/swarf mix, or the thin black dried oil deposits.

My go-to for that is xylene and a brass brush. Caution: most 'brass' brushes are carbon steel with a brass coating - great for scratching your ways and machines, but very abrasive. JohnN and I have used to good effect soft steel brushes in a drill chuck to remove stuff quickly. This works best on surfaces that are pitted by rust and gunk.

Any of these requires protective barriers. xylene needs breathing and eye protection in addition EVEN IF YOU DO IT OUTSIDE. Xylene attaches to the water molecules in your eyes, and enters your blood stream from there. Besides being cancerous, xylene does quite a bit of tissue damage once inside you.

I use toluene, like xylene its an aromatic solvent so grease don't stand a chance, toluene evaporates faster but both are equally toxic.

 

[Larry_C9]

When I worked at a diesel shop years ago we would add a litre of automatic Transmission fluid to the new varsol when cleaning the wash tank. This cut the sting out of the new varsol and the high detergent in the ATF actually helped the cleaning. A litre in a large quantity of varsol didn't leave any oily film. I don't know whether that really helped your skin much but it really took the bight out of the varsol. These tanks were probably the size of your desk.

 

[Susquatch]

Ya I'd think that would just add to the oily mess.

It does. But I just use it to loosen things up and/or soak them to get the goop off. Usually, risidual oil is not a problem. When it is, the parts still need be degreased.

 

[DavidR8]

All you folks using gasoline and varsol must have high tolerance for the smell. I stopped using anything but simple Green because the smell of petroleum based solvents just does me in.

 

[Dabbler]

in my parts washer tank I use low odour Varsol. it stings a lot less, but parts still need a wipe down with alcohol or xylene to get rid of the residue. it has way less volatile content and is safer for your lungs. I 'm now experimenting with ammonia wipes for degreasing. In theory they should work, but I prefer to prove it before recommending it.

@thestelster It is not hand immersion that will get you -- it is the Varsol fumes in your lungs... I've had lung problems all my life, and so I have tried to take care of them, as I can tell right away if any irritant is in my lungs.

 

[PeterT]

Remember, I need to have my bare hands in the stuff for 30-60 minutes at a time! And used indoors (garage).
I know that I haven't died from using Varsol for 30 years, but who knows the effects of long term exposure.

I'm a glove convert & use them whenever I can. That includes the so called eco friendly cleaners. Its really not healthy absorbing hydrocarbon solvents into your nervous system or initiating skin issues. Degreasers readily remove oil in your skin & for me that initiates skin issues. I've always used them for composites work to keep the epoxy or acetone cleanup off my skin & just got used to wearing them. The good fitting nitrile ones are my go-to & I do a lot of fiddly small mechanical parts or even certain machining ops. I had to experiment with the right size & mil thickness & unfortunately they vary my manufacturer & cloners. Personally I think some of the lack of direct tactile feel was all in my head. Its a different feel but its not a total loss of feel. Especially for parts cleaning but even for assembly/disassembly.Nitrile even offers a bit of stiction that skin does not. You see watch makers using the finger version of these & their parts make ours look ginormous. Now if they are too thin & using wire brush or something, that's different again, but that's a rougher environment. I find most all of the 'mechanics' gloves are either too thick or just not stretchy enough for finicky work although they are a tougher material. When I tried a slimmer size it actually gave me kind of a overall hand numbness, next size up was too sloppy.

Nitrile does not hold up to lacquer thinner which requires something tougher, fortunately I just use that for cleanup of spray guns. I cant stand the smell of the stuff anyways so have switched to a gun cleaner where they must have varied or masked the recipe. One of the ingredients toluene maybe? is the foul smelling because these washes are a blend of acetone & other stuff. Maybe gasoline & similar is the same, haven't tried.

For degreasing, mild washing I have been using what's called 'low odor' paint thinner from Home Depot. Works pretty good for my purposes certainly has less smell. Its somewhere in between very light end evaporative solvent like acetone & regular thinner which has a slight greasy feel (& residue). Sometimes residue is a good thing if you want that, other times not. You might also want to experiment with automotive degreaser paint prep solvents but degreasing is different than washing.

 

[thestelster]

I've tried often using gloves. It's a no go. Here is the basic set up I use.

Disassembled parts go into a pan of Varsol and left for a couple minutes. Then the parts are cleaned with either or all of the brushes, paint brush, tooth brush, stainless wire brush. Sometime the crud is so caked on, I'll use the fine wire wheel on the grinder. With gloves on, I can't feel those parts, the gloves also become slippery because of the Varsol, and it will go flying. And the gloves get ripped up from the wire wheel. On the last photo, when wire wheeling thin parts like screws and pins, I'll place the part under my fingernail to support it and rotate the part with the other hand. A quick dip into the Varsol to get rinsed off.
They then go into another pan with paper towels to dry off, then into another pan with acetone to remove any residue from the Varsol.

 

[Susquatch]

I've tried often using gloves. It's a no go.

Ya, been there, done that, didn't even want the t-shirt.

Only thing I can add is to consider trying surgical forceps to hold small parts. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Fingers and fingernails are incredibly versatile.

Chrome Mosquito Hemostat Forceps 5" Straight Pliers Stainless Steel https://a.co/d/02AZp64

Amazon.ca

Etc etc

 

[robert million]

Try a small ultra sonic parts cleaner

 

[van123d]

Try a small ultra sonic parts cleaner

That is what I use for cleaning gun parts. Works great. It doesn’t completely remove the fouling from the surfaces but what it leaves is usually easily wiped away.

One caution of water based degreasers, it seems most of them are not safe for aluminum. The ones commonly mentioned, Simple Green, Zep Purple etc will all attack aluminum.

Even the purple simple green which is often said is safe for aluminum online, seems to cause a white powdery surface afterwards. They make an aircraft specific simple green that is branded as aluminum safe but I have not tried that one.

 

[Dabbler]

Aluminum is tricky. It is porus, and abosrbs hydrocarbons readily. It is so easy to contaminate. I never use my parts washer for aluminum.