Parts washer solvent

ShawnR

Ultra Member
Premium Member
Hey guys
I picked up a small parts washer. Up till now in my life, I have used a small bucket with some leftover paint thinner in it. Always wanted an actual metal washer bin. But now wondering what the best solvent is for it. Varsol of course comes to mind first, then just paint thinner, (I have been told same thing, just different name) which is where my dirty brush cleaning paint thinner usually ends up. But it is a little strong in odour. And I wonder about flammability of course. Years ago, there used to be a "Safety solvent", high flash point so safer that way, don't recall how strong the odour was. A search today yielded a few options. I was wondering what most of you use.




Or other suggestions?
 

DPittman

Ultra Member
Premium Member
I've used varsol in a parts washer for years. I was always skeptical of the water based cleaning fluids but many on this forum have reported success with them. At the very least I wish hadn't been so cheap last time I replaced my varsol and bought the low ordor stuff instead, but it was twice the price.
 

phaxtris

(Ryan)
Premium Member
Premium Member
Simple green works well, I've had both solvent and simple Green, I much preferred simple green
 

Ironman

Ultra Member
I use the stuff sold by AIF / NAPA. I think it's varsol. Usually some diesel gets thrown in as well. I have a proper parts washer with a drain pan and a lid with a Woods metal fusible link. Smell is no issue as even if the lid is left up the solvent is covered completely by the drain pan.
I am experimenting with an inch of water in the bottom, as a way to let the sludge and solids drop out of the solvent. When I drain it, I can scrape up the goo.
 

DPittman

Ultra Member
Premium Member
I use the stuff sold by AIF / NAPA. I think it's varsol. Usually some diesel gets thrown in as well. I have a proper parts washer with a drain pan and a lid with a Woods metal fusible link. Smell is no issue as even if the lid is left up the solvent is covered completely by the drain pan.
I am experimenting with an inch of water in the bottom, as a way to let the sludge and solids drop out of the solvent. When I drain it, I can scrape up the goo.
Won't the water cause rust and goo formations in the bottom?
 

Ironman

Ultra Member
Why yes, that is the idea. It is to collect the goo and crud dissolved by the solvent.. It really will be difficult for rust to survive in a low/no oxygen environment.
At present the grunge has no where to go, but to stay in solution, or settle to the bottom til the pump sucks it up and re-distributes it.
 

ShawnR

Ultra Member
Premium Member
I was on my way to get the nemco before I saw these messages. I will give it a try and report back. Thanks everyone for the replies
 

ShawnR

Ultra Member
Premium Member
As to the water base, there is a good discussion over on shop floor talk about that
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
Why yes, that is the idea. It is to collect the goo and crud dissolved by the solvent.. It really will be difficult for rust to survive in a low/no oxygen environment.
At present the grunge has no where to go, but to stay in solution, or settle to the bottom til the pump sucks it up and re-distributes it.

I've never heard of anyone else doing this, but it's whacky enough to actually work. I'm looking forward to hearing how this works out for you.
 

Gearhead88

Super User
Whatever solvent winds up in a parts washer , wear your PPE , the long term effects are not pleasant ... I'm paying for it now , after being a mechanic , welder , trades guy since high school .

In the last year or so , I've had some skin issues on my hands , the severity of that varies if I do not glove up before even the slightest exposure , it's to the point now that I can no longer expose my hands to even a momentary exposure to , Varsol , brake clean , gasoline, diesel and , I'm sure I will find more products that burn my skin , cause severe itching , cracking of skin , bleeding .......

I use to not give it a second thought , I pretty much immersed my hands in and bathed in all of the products mentioned , starting ten or so years ago I began using gloves , but not every time ....... I'm thinking certain types of gloves are now causing a skin reaction .
 
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Ironman

Ultra Member
As to the water base, there is a good discussion over on shop floor talk about that
Ah, another SFT member:D. Yes, that was where the idea came from, but I'll be a few years yet befor I have to change out the 5 gallons of juice, and maybe by then I will not be able to afford the carbon tax on it.
 

boilerhouse

Ultra Member
Is your parts washer pump compatible with petroleum based solvents? When I went to replace my 20 year old failed pump, I was surprised how many pumps were for water based products only. For example, the replacement pump from Princess Auto retails for almost $45, and states not for solvent use. I spent a few big bucks to get one solvent compatible. As far as solvent goes, I used Varsol and Diesel mixed, mainly because I had a lot of zero cost Diesel on hand. If I were going the water based route, I would use Simple Green. I bought a jug of it a couple months ago, and was amazed how effective it was against dirt and grime.

I also looked after our parts washer at work (solvent based cleaner), and when I initially set it up, the manufacture directions recommended an inch or two of water at the bottom to help capture suspended debris.
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
I also looked after our parts washer at work (solvent based cleaner), and when I initially set it up, the manufacture directions recommended an inch or two of water at the bottom to help capture suspended debris.

Wow! Certainly gives credibility to the idea! Who was the manufacturer?
 

Doggggboy

Ultra Member
Why yes, that is the idea. It is to collect the goo and crud dissolved by the solvent.. It really will be difficult for rust to survive in a low/no oxygen environment.
At present the grunge has no where to go, but to stay in solution, or settle to the bottom til the pump sucks it up and re-distributes it.
If the washer pump feeds from the bottom it would still pump the crud around even if it was in the water, wouldn't it?
If the pump was suspended away from the bottom, wouldn't the eddy currents still mix the crud and water with the solvent and mix it all up every time you use it?
Or is there a baffle at the bottom to keep the two liquids more separated? My parts washer is an old office countertop with a kitchen sink built in. I put a 5 gallon bucket of solvent under the drain and plumbed the pump into the faucet.
 

Cryoine

Active Member
this is honestly what I use, though I want to step up my game with a vapor honing cabinet

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If the washer pump feeds from the bottom it would still pump the crud around even if it was in the water, wouldn't it?
If the pump was suspended away from the bottom, wouldn't the eddy currents still mix the crud and water with the solvent and mix it all up every time you use it?
Or is there a baffle at the bottom to keep the two liquids more separated? My parts washer is an old office countertop with a kitchen sink built in. I put a 5 gallon bucket of solvent under the drain and plumbed the pump into the faucet.
In order for it to work you need to draw from above the water level. We had I think a 15 gallon one, the type that sit on a barrel, we put about 10 gallons of water in the bottom and 5 gallons of varsol on the top and jut drew off the top few inches of the tank, topping it up any time it began to cavitate. If you start to pick up water, the bottom of the barrel is getting pretty full of crud, and very little varsol is wasted in the cleanup. Disposal of that is another matter, and since it wasn't one of my assets, it wasn't my problem. :rolleyes::p
 
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