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New Projects New Challenges

carrdo

Super User
Hi All,

At it again, giving myself more heartburn. I am egotistical enough that I want to see this locomotive running in my lifetime and not someone else's. And time is not on my side.

I need to precisely machine these two silicone bronze castings to be a very precise (tap) fit in the locomotive smokebox barrel as the smokebox itself has to be under a slight negative pressure to help draw the combustion gasses through the boiler tubes (it is not the only mechanism used to achieve this but it is an important factor) with absolutely no leaks in or out of the smokebox itself.

So the first operation was to mount the smokebox door mounting ring in the 4 jaw and machine the inner face of the mounting ring and its ID all at one setting. Just make sure to give the casting a good once over with a relatively coarse tooth file to remove any and all casting irregularities first.

To do the facing/boring operation, one had to set the casting out from the reversed jaws ever so slightly so the boring bar would just clear the backing jaws. I used 1/16" thick packing pieces all SG to be exactly the same thickness (saved by the SG again) as one should not introduce any more wobble than is in the casting itself.

The silicone bronze skin of the casting is very hard and tough on regular HSS unless your HSS tools are kept very sharp so this is one of the few times I go with carbide cutting tools (C2 non ferrous). I kept the cuts light and the 4 jaw clamping pressure low as I did not want to distort the ring. Mount the ring with the backing pieces and centre it as close as possible first.

The setup shown in photo 11 is far from ideal but when space for machining is very tight you do what becomes necessary. I had to sharpen/relieve the carbide blank in order to be able to get into the tight inner corner and this was done on the Quorn using a small diamond wheel by hand. Single point cutting tools are so easy to sharpen so I try and use them wherever possible and in ways they were never intended to be used.

All setup work but it made for a beautiful job.

Next was to machine the ring dead parallel on thickness. It could have been done in the lathe but having a SG.... Silicone bronze grinds just like mild steel with a standard aluminum oxide wheel but the part has to be thoroughly blocked first as seen in photo 12. I took very light cuts of 0.0005" per pass as nothing can move . Tedious work but what a finish.

to be continued.
 

Attachments

  • 6 Hoffman Hudson Smokebox Door and Backing Ring Castings.jpg
    6 Hoffman Hudson Smokebox Door and Backing Ring Castings.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 10
  • 11 First Turning of the Smokebox Door Backing Ring Casting.jpg
    11 First Turning of the Smokebox Door Backing Ring Casting.jpg
    157.2 KB · Views: 12
  • 12 Surface Grinding the Smokebox Door Silicone Bronze Backing Ring Casting.jpg
    12 Surface Grinding the Smokebox Door Silicone Bronze Backing Ring Casting.jpg
    151 KB · Views: 12
Hi All,

Continuing.

I decided to face the smokebox door rear flange next. I used the same setup as for turning the backing ring (photo 13). This was not an easy setup either as the door casting OD flange was quite thin and so I had to use the 1/16" thick backing spacers again but this time there was no machined surface to make this a straightforward operation. Also, to get the smokebox door casting to run true without wobble - a lot of fiddling involved but in the end I managed.

Next was to turn the OD of the backing ring to be a tap fit in the smokebox shell. This time I used my best 3 jaw chuck and reversed the clamping from the inside machined ID, again using the thin standoff spacers under the jaws. (photos 14,15). This setup actually worked quite well but the issue was what final OD to make the ring as I didn't trust my vernier caliper to be good enough for the tapping fit I wanted and then I found that the smokebox tube itself was somewhat out of round due to the previous machining operations or at this level of accuracy nothing is truly round, square, etc. And on both of these parts I was very close to the lathe capacity over the cross slide, to fouling of the chuck jaws and to topslide/cutting tool interference so one had to be really careful with the setups.

For any large diameter very close fits, I always use a slight lead in taper (1 degree) when turning a part to know when I am getting really close but still what ring OD to final turn to? I was really guessing here but in the end I decided to make it a shade less than 1/2 of the out of roundness (maximum ID to minimum ID) of the tube itself. I had no idea if this would work and one does not get a second chance here but with the ring out and with very careful aligning of the ring in the end of the tube, (and giving the end of the tube a light circular filing followed by some fine emery paper, steel wool polishing and then a light oiling), on my second attempt, it fully seated under medium circular tapping with a non metallic mallet. If the end of the tube was out of round before, it certainly isn't now (photo 16).

Happiness!

to be continued.13 Facing the Rear Outer Flange of the Smokebox Door Casting.jpg14 Turning the OD of the Smokebox Door Backing Ring.jpg15 The Miniscule Clearance from the Chuck Jaws.jpg16 The Turned Smokebox Door Backing Ring Finished as a Hard Tap Fit in the Smokebox Shell Maki...jpg
 
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