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MT#4 keyless chuck for trade

grease monkey

grease monkey

down to the wood for a sister-in-law in 2015! :(
hey all, I recently got a deal on a very nice MT#4 key less chuck made by Validus, its a 3-16, 5/8" bit size?, anyway, I'm hoping someone has a keyless chuck with a #3 taper that would like to trade me for this? hate to machine it down to suit if someone needs this, knee jerk purchase not realizing I needed 1 size smaller taper. I'm southwestern Ontario
 

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Integral shank? Check to make sure it's not a JT taper holding the shank and body together. Can't tell from this angle, but that undercut there leads me to believe it's 2 separate pieces and you can wedge them apart and replace with a JT-Mt3 shank for little dollars (under $20). I had a nice golden goose I swapped from MT3 to MT2 a few years ago. I'll go check my MT3 shank and if it's the same as yours, you're more than welcome to it.

Edit: heres the pic, it's a j6 taper on the chuck side.
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If you remove the MT arbor, make sure you know exactly which taper the chuck itself uses - there are several different ones. It would be a shame to get the right taper to fit the drill press/mill/lathe, but end up with the wrong taper to fit the chuck! Best to check with the manufacturer if there are no markings.

My own experience with "chuck wedges" for removing chucks from their arbors has been, lets just say, "disappointing". Some chucks have a through hole and you can press the arbor out through that, which is much easier. In some cases, if they don't already have a hole you can make one, though you might be reluctant to drill a nice new chuck.
 
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This is a worthy discussion.

In addition to everything said above, there is the many different styles of wedges used to disassemble tapers. You can get specific ones to fit many different tapers. But it always seems to be that you need something they don't sell. So I ended up making adapters - basically C-clips cut from washers. I don't have a photo handy. The adapters make a bigger wedge work like a smaller one.

@grease monkey - I agree with @Dan Dubeau and @jorogi. That chuck of yours looks like the taper is removable to me. The neck is almost a sure give away. Why would the manufacturer make that neck if it was integral? The neck is there to take a pair of wedges for disassembly. I'd bet it's a JT6.

You have a nice mill. You can make a pair of wedges easy peasy. They don't need to hardened because you use a bench vise to squeeze them together. The biggest problem is when they spread out. But properly fit, they don't do that. The ones you buy are hardened.


This is likely the arbour you need.

 
Wedges don't need to be fancy. Don't even need a mill. Not ashamed to show these wedges i made from small beam offcut scraps. The tapered flange made a great wedge. All i had to do was cut the slot. As you can see, I used the angry beaver method....A mill would work too I guess.....
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The other larger side was the one that pressed off the other shank above.
 
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I do believe it does separate, without the slot in the side to insert a taper to separate, I wasn't sure how to manage this, looks like something I will have to try! I did try to find out more info on this keyless chuck, didn't really find anything other than parts for sale. angry beaver, that will never be misconstrued will it?? ;)
 
Susquatch said:
That's just plain hilarious! I hope my wife never sees that.....

I love that they are reversible for another size taper! Very nice Dan!
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Just a utilitarian tool. Shared to show that you don't need fancy tools to get stuff done sometimes, and even when you do have the fancy tools, it's sometimes simply quicker and easier to use other methods. Scrap, portaband, files. No actual beavers were harmed during the making of the wedges lol.
 
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