MONARCH 10BE, TOOL ROOM LATHE WITH 6" 3 JAW CHUCK, 20" IN BETWEEN CENTERS, 12.5" SWING, 1.5" BORE
Lot 5 at J & J Tool & Mold Limited from Corporate Assets Inc..
www.bidspotter.com
Oldcastle, ON
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Monarch 10BE, Tool room lathe on bidspotter. Auction is tomorrow
- Thread starter Gennady
- Start date
www.bidspotter.com
Oldcastle, ON
What is the difference between ee and be ?
trlvn
Ultra Member
Isn't this the era of the funky analog variable speed motor/drive system? On Youtube, Keith Rucker, with support from an electrical engineer, started a modernization project on a 10EE but I don't think they ever got it working to a decent standard. (Maybe I missed the joyful conclusion?)
Nonetheless, I think that machine looks outstanding for its age. Also nonetheless, it is too big and too far for me.
Craig
TorontoBuilder
Ultra Member
Yep and the rigging fees tell you that they expect well heeled commercial dealers to be buying everything for more than typical hobbyist can afford.
Corporate Assets auctions are the steepest on bidspotter. I've never managed to get a "really" good deal at one of their auctions, but I've gotten items not available used elsewhere
I mean how greedy is it to have a $15USD rigging fee for a raduis dresser that comes in a box and the purchaser can just pick up in one hand
TorontoBuilder
Ultra Member
yep they are when they apply them to every lot, on top of their buyer's premium... which is supposed to cover their costs of running the auction and hiring runners to grab lots and hand them to buyers
Originally with the round dials it was a motor generator, MG, (Ward Leonard) drive, with a very large diameter DC motor. iirc 3.5 hp. Lots you can read about that set up, but it performs! 10 rpm to 2500 with two speed back gear (designed in the lathe '30's!). That is very difficult to replicate. On mine, I had the two speed gearbox box but not the MG. I went with a 5hp AC motor and VFD and made the two speed gearbox the front of the motor. It does well for the practical purposes to which I'll put the lathe (I have another lathe that will go down to 17 rpm via gearing when very slow speed is needed) but it does not equal the original MG drive's performance. The criticism of the MG drive is its noisy.
That is just rude. Why not price it in Pounds Sterling or Swiss Francs? Zero interest in participating in that nonsense. Foreign currency? 19%? I'm out.
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trlvn
Ultra Member
Thanks for that. I located Keith's video series:
NOTE that the series really doesn't come to a conclusion. He says the replacement drive system is working "90%" but that there are some tweaks and fine-tuning to be done. (And Keith has lost a tremendous amount of weight in the last year!)
Also, Keith was working on a 10ee from 1956. He describes it as 'being from the era with the Works in a Drawer' which includes some whopping big vaccum tubes, etc! Is the external box connected to the lathe at auction the motor generator unit? I've never seen one before and didn't realize it was that huge.
Re it being a "BE" model, I browsed some documents on VintageMachinery and couldn't see anything mentioning such a machine. At least one of their catalogs, though, did indicate that they would customize machines to the customer's specifications. Maybe the "B" indicates the machine was bastardized!
Craig
(Still not bidding!)
That's the square dial with the tubes, bit of a different beast than the one for sale above. I'm less familiar with them, except know that have even better performance (up to to 4000 rpm). Keep in mind all of this is belt driven, no transmission except for the backgear in base. Done this way no gears are contact with the spindle (unless threading)
My conversion. I replaced the back of the gearbox and front of the motor with a single plate and turned the motor shaft part to become the bottom gearbox shaft. The electrical controls slide in the tailstock end of the base casting. The base is really wide to accommodate the giant DC motor, but the wide section is not that deep, this seemed to be best arrangement to fit everything.
My conversion. I replaced the back of the gearbox and front of the motor with a single plate and turned the motor shaft part to become the bottom gearbox shaft. The electrical controls slide in the tailstock end of the base casting. The base is really wide to accommodate the giant DC motor, but the wide section is not that deep, this seemed to be best arrangement to fit everything.
Attachments
How it works on low RPMs with WFD? is that enough torque? how about overheating?
Torque is good enough. As I noted, performance will not be the same as the MG drive, but it will good enough. If very low speeds are needed I'll do it on the other lathe. As for overheating, I used a motor I had and didn't bother getting an inverter duty motor. Again, just because I have another slow option, so can live with that compromise rather buying a new motor.
I don't know what that thing is. the MG drive was a 3P AC motor driving an exciter, basically DC generator then the DC motor (I'll stop there as I do not claim DC/exciter/Ward Leonard drive expertise). It was all crammed in the base of the machine. I had a second one for a while, think it was a '43 that had the MG drive. Brilliant piece of kit but noisy. Picked it for $400 as the guy said he had several electricians look at it all of who failed to make it run and basically each gave up. Brought it home with the view of cnc'ing it, hooked up my shop made RPC an away it went. Perfectly. Eventually sold it, needed the space more than another project.
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