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Miller 180 Autoset

Ironman

Ironman

Ultra Member
I recently sold off my Lincoln 180 and bought a new Miller Autoset. I have become totally unimpressed with the Autoset. It starts so hot that it burns back into the tip and then birdnests. I suspect they have incorporated a hotstart feature into it and it reacts too slow to deal with the wire.
If I set the machine as I normally would without Autoset, it does a great job.
I generally use this unit with .023 wire as my big Millar feeder is used for .040 and .035 wire.

I'm interested to hear if anybody else has this problem, or just me.
 
I have a Miller 211 Autoset that I bought many years ago (12 or more?). It has always worked like e dream, no problems using .023, .030, or .035 wire, auto or otherwise. But different model than 180, and likely the latest version of the 211 is also different from mine.
 
mickeyf said:
I have a Miller 211 Autoset that I bought many years ago (12 or more?). It has always worked like e dream, no problems using .023, .030, or .035 wire, auto or otherwise. But different model than 180, and likely the latest version of the 211 is also different from mine.
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This is what I have always heard as well, so I was eager to get it.
I did notice on old post that some people had figured out how to disable the hotstart feature by pulling off a wire. That whole curcuit board is different in this one.
 
I have a 180 that was bought new in 2009 and I can't comment on the autoset for gas but found the autoset isn't accurate for flux core, .032. The current and wire speed don't match and I was ending up with burn back as well. I use flux core and have become used to just setting it manually. I realize this defeats the purpose of autoset but I'm okay with it.

I just looked at the book and there is no mention of "hotstart", doesn't there isn't one I just never saw it in the book.
 
Yep, Mike same here. I saw that comment in an old forum post and I can't even remember the forum. Anyway, Miller was silly enough to send me a questionnaire about how I liked it. So I told them. And also about the unobtanium plastic hinges that broke on the side cover. Exactly like the Lincoln I had, but it tried to commit suicide and leaped off a combine, so there was a reason. This is in a heated building and has been in use only since November.
 
mickeyf said:
I have a Miller 211 Autoset that I bought many years ago (12 or more?). It has always worked like e dream, no problems using .023, .030, or .035 wire, auto or otherwise.
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I have the same machine and I've the same results as you, flawless. Maybe Miller has started to cut corners on their newer machines.
Buy up the old stuff before everyone else does.
 
If it is birdsnesting then the drive roll tension may be set too tight?

Do you have a picture of how tight it's set?

I would be very gentle with this adjustment as the 180 autoset I had egged the bushings & ruined the driveshaft in the wire feed gearbox and they are big $ to replace the whole assembly.

It should only need to be set just tight enough, if you need to crank it down either liner is kinked/dirty/too short/dirty tip/drag is set too tight on wire spool etc.

The next version autosets used a wire drive gearbox with a larger shaft/bushing so I'd bet it was a weak point.
 
Sorry to hear you are having problems with your Miller. That's not Miller-like. I very much like my Millermatic 220ACDC. It has Autoset and I use it all the time (got the machine 5 years ago I think). I like how you can easily adjust the feed and voltage a bit higher or lower than the Autoset setting.
My only two complaints about this machine are that the MIG torch is rather basic and that it only has 10 ft cables. Last week I priced-out & plan to get their MDX100 gun. It has a swivel head and also the liner is just one piece. The only gap in the liner is at the spool. There is no gap at the tip so that burnbacks are mostly eliminated (at least that's what they say & the MDX gets good reviews)
 
Jswain said:
If it is birdsnesting then the drive roll tension may be set too tight?

Do you have a picture of how tight it's set?

I would be very gentle with this adjustment as the 180 autoset I had egged the bushings & ruined the driveshaft in the wire feed gearbox and they are big $ to replace the whole assembly.

It should only need to be set just tight enough, if you need to crank it down either liner is kinked/dirty/too short/dirty tip/drag is set too tight on wire spool etc.

The next version autosets used a wire drive gearbox with a larger shaft/bushing so I'd bet it was a weak point.
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My drive is 100% metal, not like the 100% plastic one on the Lincoln.
If you set it real loose, once it burns in to the tip, you have to unscrew the tip and feed out the wire and hope you can get it out of the tip. I want to stop the burnback, so running without the autoset is the answer.
 
Ironman said:
My drive is 100% metal, not like the 100% plastic one on the Lincoln.
If you set it real loose, once it burns in to the tip, you have to unscrew the tip and feed out the wire and hope you can get it out of the tip. I want to stop the burnback, so running without the autoset is the answer.
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Mine was too, the problem is the small shaft and bushings in the wire drive motor gearbox on the 180 autoset

You could grab the roller and wiggle it up and down a fairly large amount(maybe 1/4") so no matter how much the drive tension was tightened down it would still slip when running autoset.

All from previous owner cranking tension too tight. Pretty easy to check there should basically be no/very little up/down movement in the bottom drive wheel

Welding normally the drive motor spun at a constant speed and was ok. Autoset when it tried to speed up would slip and weld like crap. In my case anyways

One I remade the bushings & shaft it would happily weld on autoset with minimal drive tension
 
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@Ironman - just to clarify, you are using shielded wire not fluxcore correct. I don't remember seeing .023 fluxcore but I would guess it's out there.
For fluxcore, did you get a knurled roller for your machine? Fluxcore is a real pita without this roller.
 
Downwindtracker2 said:
I have a Miller 250x and it blows holes when I start. You have to start somewhere else and come over.
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Have you tried wrapping the ground lead around a large chunk of steel?

My 250 sometimes has sporadic starts, it really likes the wire to be trimmed everytime. Never blowing holes or burning back unless tip is dirty tho.

I tried adjusting the inductance slightly wrapping the ground lead but didn't really notice much of a change, but I know some people say it helps.

I do find it welds better with straight CO2 vs c25 mix tho.
 
There is a hack from MIller that tames it, but that involves wiring in some electronics. I read about it on the Miller forum. I don't do electronics. They designed an"Easy Start". Opps. By the 251 they had the bugs worked out.
 
X2 on possible over tensioning drive wheels if bird nesting. Is polarity correct for flux core? I prefer hot start setting on my 251, even for .035 wire on 22 gauge. Cutting stickout before starts has pretty much become a reflex. Was always curious if auto set was legit, I usually start with door settings so kind of similar?
 
Downwindtracker2 said:
There is a hack from MIller that tames it, but that involves wiring in some electronics. I read about it on the Miller forum. I don't do electronics. They designed an"Easy Start". Opps. By the 251 they had the bugs worked out.
Click to expand...
How long is the ground lead on your 250x?

I swapped mine for 25' I believe
 
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