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Mill top of anvil flat?


Ultra Member
Hi Group,
We re finished a 120# Peter Wright anvil for our blacksmith area. Over all it was not in too bad of shape but the edges were rounded over. The top plate was about 1/2" thick
We built them up by tig welding stellite in small beads about 1" long then ground it with flap wheels if I can recall
We were very careful not to over heat it but at the end still saw a very fine hairline under the top plate.
I sold the entire blacksmith area to custom bike builder Roger Goldammer.
I will never find or be able to own an anvil of this type in my lifetime
Meh. Never say never. Had too many 'nice things' get dropped in my lap, because I was the first guy that the donation source had met that was actually interested in whatever it was, and 'just wanted it to go to a good home'.

Personally, the limiting factor for me, would be whether the anvil was actually sound or not (ie: the forge welds holding the tool steel plate on the top of the anvil were still intact). After that I would be assessing my welding skills, availability of suitable rod, etc.

Mill work comes after the dirty job of repairing the damage and chipped off corners gets done! :)


Well-Known Member
Interesting read on stellite. Especially the part on stellite in nuclear reactor.

@wmetfab where did you get stellite for tig welding? is it available as a tig rod?
We did the repair around 2006.
We got about 8 or 10 rods?
5/32 bare rods about 30" long they were a bluish color and odd looking like segments that were fused together.
Cant exactly remember where we got them we had a real good guy that was salesman for the welding supply I think he made them appear from somewhere


Active Member
I use h.s.s. drill bits for hardfacing with my Miller tig welder. You could just tap the flux off of a hardfacing stick rod and use that for tig, depending on the rod size and amperage of your machine.