Metal Saw Adjustable Prop

[thestelster]

I got frustrated the other day trying to position a small piece on the saw, at an angle, with a jacking screw on one end of saw jaws, while trying to position the blade where I wanted the cut. Using both hands, and holding the upper saw cradled in my lap. What a PITA.

So today a quick job. Using a broken camera tripod that I had lying around for years, (you never know, I you could use that! I'm not a hoarder, but....!!)
Using one of the legs, bolted it to the saw base, and now I can raise the saw and keep it in any position by locking it in place until I'm ready to cut, then unlock it and the leg segment can be lowered out of the way.

 

[DPittman]

Those saws mustn't have the air/hydraulic cylinder that controls the downward movement of the blade??

 

[Susquatch]

Those saws mustn't have the air/hydraulic cylinder that controls the downward movement of the blade??

Nothing like that on mine. Just the weight of the saw.

 

[Former Member]

Thats one of the small saws and the only assist they have is the counter balance spring, it isn't until you get a 7x12 that you have hydraulic cut control as the head is significantly heavier.

Nice idea for the prop. for the increased production rate.

 

[Dan Dubeau]

I like it!. Glad I'm not the only one that saves all that weird telescoping material from consumer goods. I can use that for something.....

 

[thestelster]

Thats one of the small saws and the only assist they have is the counter balance spring, it isn't until you get a 7x12 that you have hydraulic cut control as the head is significantly heavier.

Nice idea for the prop. for the increased production rate.

Thanks.

Yeah, that counterspring is useless. I have it completely loose, so it allows maximum weight downwards, (feed control). And when I cut thick aluminium pieces, I'll add a weight, about 2lbs, hanging off the tension knob for extra feed.

 

[Susquatch]

Thanks.

Yeah, that counterspring is useless. I have it completely loose, so it allows maximum weight downwards, (feed control). And when I cut thick aluminium pieces, I'll add a weight, about 2lbs, hanging off the tension knob for extra feed.

Good tip.

I just lean on mine with an old man's calibrated knuckle weight. Works ok for me cuz I'm not leaving it alone anyway.

 

[Former Member]

Thanks.

Yeah, that counterspring is useless. I have it completely loose, so it allows maximum weight downwards, (feed control). And when I cut thick aluminium pieces, I'll add a weight, about 2lbs, hanging off the tension knob for extra feed.

For thick cuts go with the largest tooth count you can get, it increases pressure per tooth and gullet leaves space for scarf. I never had to add wts on my first small saw. I had enough tensions so only the last 2" of drop was balance a little.

 

[thestelster]

For thick cuts go with the largest tooth count you can get, it increases pressure per tooth and gullet leaves space for scarf. I never had to add wts on my first small saw. I had enough tensions so only the last 2" of drop was balance a little.

I use the Starrett Intenss Pro-Die 10-14 bi-metal blade, and is a great all-rounder. If I was to do a lot of thick aluminum at one time I would get something coarser, but my needs vary, so I just leave that on and improvise as necessary.

 

[Former Member]

You'll find that the coarsest Starrett (you are limited by blade depth) you can get will do almost anything except for fine material.

Also you'll find the M42 blades are better but cost more.

 

[thestelster]

You'll find that the coarsest Starrett (you are limited by blade depth) you can get will do almost anything except for fine material.

Also you'll find the M42 blades are better but cost more.

Yeah, that's what it is:

"Intenss PRO-DIE band saw blades have bi-metal unique saw technology, triple tempered M-42 cobalt HSS teeth combined with alloy steel backing strip for heat, abrasion and shock resistance, longevity and chip clearing. Ideal for tool, die and mold steels, stainless and nickel based and non-ferrous alloys."