Looks like a Big Boy” base, rated at 1,300N (292 lbf); the arms & holder are rated for a 20kg load:
If you mean the connection between the Noga arm and camera mount, I used an internal toothed lock washer on mine. You’ll have to wait until both my arms can reach above my head so I can see what I did with the other connections.I'd hazard a WAG that the weakest link in all these units is that 1/4" stud. Even a thin lock nut would help. Some day I'd like to cobble up something better. Project 42f3b.....
If you mean the connection between the Noga arm and camera mount, I used an internal toothed lock washer on mine. You’ll have to wait until both my arms can reach above my head so I can see what I did with the other connections.
Per Stefan, the big problem at the arm/base connection is the paint on the base (starting at 5:00):Nope, I mean the 1/4 inch stud at the mag base itself. The further you get from the indicator or the camera, the more rigidity matters. That puny little 1/4 inch stud couldn't be in a worse place. It's not that 1/4" is all that weak, it's that it's also a crappy design that can wiggle around like a post in a hole with no dirt. I favour a big flat base on the screw that provides more rigidity without a bigger screw. Fisso does a good job of this but could be even better.
Per Stefan, the big problem at the arm/base connection is the paint on the base (starting at 5:00):
Just to clarify, the stud on the bottom of the arm and the hole in the Mag Base is M10. I know because the adapter I made so I could mount the Big Boy arms to a Kant Twist has an M10 hole (from a post with videos from back in September that I haven't completed; I guess since I can keyboard I can go ahead and get this finished):Without watching the video (I'll do that later), I have zero problem accepting the paint as an issue. A simple big washer should clobber that problem.
Never saw a m10 stud on any holder. I wonder what it would take to upgrade existing 1/4 studs to M10 or 3/8?