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Looking for feedback on small milling machine

thriller007

Well-Known Member
I’m in the market for a small milling machine and space is a limitation that I have. I do have one of the combination lathe and Milling machines. From busy bee . I was looking at getting a more dedicated machine.
Some of the machines that I was exploring were the Craftex cx601, Craftex cx600, king Canada 20vs, and rong fu style mill drill.
I’m just trying to learn more with regard to these machines and what they can do as well as what they can’t do. Thanks in advance
 

Janger

(John)
Administrator
Vendor
Search the forum for these machines - we have discussed them quite a bit. Welcome aboard.
 
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Dabbler

ersatz engineer
@thriller007 there is a trade-off between size/weight and capability. You may spend a lot and only improve capability slightly. There are full sized machines with small tables that would do most everything you can do on a vertical mill.
 

Dabbler

ersatz engineer
I have an embarrassment of milling machines. my primary machine is a 9X49 BP clone. Three years ago I bought a 1930s horizontal mill (because it was cute). Last year I bought an 8X32 BP clone because I got a great deal on a basically new machine. Then Bert needed someone to buy his machines and move them out. So after 2 months of his 7 X 42 BP clone not selling I bought it. But it is not back together again (yet).

For almost 20 years I had a Busy Bee B048 8 X 30mill that didn't have a ram. it looked like this one. I got tired of not being able to tap holes using a full sized tap wrench, so around 5 years ago I upgraded it to the 9X49 and sold the old one to @Janger

TMI? sorry about that. Yes I have too many mills. Yes, soon I'll have to sell at least one of them. Every one of the vertical mills I have weighs over 2000lbs. If you have to go down to a basement, the go for at least a PM45 type, because the smaller ones don't get you much further than what you have now. Ask any of the guys that have RF30 mills. Most of them have been relegated to drill press duty.

I've never regretted upgrading to a full sized mill. Even though it is huge.

A good used 8X32 'big boy' mill will do better work faster and easier, with better resale value. But only if you down't go down stairs.

Just my 2 cents.
 

thriller007

Well-Known Member
Wow Dabbler you have had a lot. I had to do a quick google search to see pictures of all the mills you are talking about. I do not have to take a mill to the basement but I do have a small shop. Ironically I have to do some rearranging just to fit one like a PDM30 into my shop and still have enough room to get a vehicle in there when needed. I was concerned about the size being too big for my space. I was also concerned about the round shaft on the rong fu style and having to adjust the head.
I have an embarrassment of milling machines. my primary machine is a 9X49 BP clone. Three years ago I bought a 1930s horizontal mill (because it was cute). Last year I bought an 8X32 BP clone because I got a great deal on a basically new machine. Then Bert needed someone to buy his machines and move them out. So after 2 months of his 7 X 42 BP clone not selling I bought it. But it is not back together again (yet).

For almost 20 years I had a Busy Bee B048 8 X 30mill that didn't have a ram. it looked like this one. I got tired of not being able to tap holes using a full sized tap wrench, so around 5 years ago I upgraded it to the 9X49 and sold the old one to @Janger

TMI? sorry about that. Yes I have too many mills. Yes, soon I'll have to sell at least one of them. Every one of the vertical mills I have weighs over 2000lbs. If you have to go down to a basement, the go for at least a PM45 type, because the smaller ones don't get you much further than what you have now. Ask any of the guys that have RF30 mills. Most of them have been relegated to drill press duty.

I've never regretted upgrading to a full sized mill. Even though it is huge.

A good used 8X32 'big boy' mill will do better work faster and easier, with better resale value. But only if you down't go down stairs.

Just my 2 cents.
 

DavidR8

Scrap maker
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
Hmmmmm????? @David_R8 , @historicalarms Do you agree with that statement?
I don't agree. Mine works a treat. It is not a Bridgeport but it will do quite respectable work.
@thriller007 round column mills get a lot of bad press about the inability to hold head position. In my opinion a lot of it is hogwash. It is true that if one has to raise the head during an operation you will lose your X position relative to your work. Once strategy to avoid having to raise the head is to determine what cutting tools you need for a given operation and have the head at a height where the longest (typically a drill bit or reamer) will just fit when chucked in.

I have an ER32 collet chuck as my main tool holder for my mill. Works great but it does stick out from the bottom of the spindle about 2.5". When I'm pressed for space between the work and the spindle I switch to an MT3 taper collet which is essentially flush with the bottom of the spindle nose giving me back 2.5" of space.

If I have to raise the head in the middle of work on an item I use a dial indicator on a magnetic base on the table and indicate against the quill. Once located, I raise the head of the mill, lower the quill and then move the head so the DI reads the same as before I lifted the head. The hardest part is maintaining the reading when tightening the bolts that clamp the head to the column. I can very easily return the head to within .001" of where is was before.

I have seen some really slick setups that combine a vertical rods and linear bearings to fashion a sort of guide to fix the head in one position.
 

thriller007

Well-Known Member
thanks, what should someone expect to pay for a used rong fu style mill drill?
I don't agree. Mine works a treat. It is not a Bridgeport but it will do quite respectable work.
@thriller007 round column mills get a lot of bad press about the inability to hold head position. In my opinion a lot of it is hogwash. It is true that if one has to raise the head during an operation you will lose your X position relative to your work. Once strategy to avoid having to raise the head is to determine what cutting tools you need for a given operation and have the head at a height where the longest (typically a drill bit or reamer) will just fit when chucked in.

I have an ER32 collet chuck as my main tool holder for my mill. Works great but it does stick out from the bottom of the spindle about 2.5". When I'm pressed for space between the work and the spindle I switch to an MT3 taper collet which is essentially flush with the bottom of the spindle nose giving me back 2.5" of space.

If I have to raise the head in the middle of work on an item I use a dial indicator on a magnetic base on the table and indicate against the quill. Once located, I raise the head of the mill, lower the quill and then move the head so the DI reads the same as before I lifted the head. The hardest part is maintaining the reading when tightening the bolts that clamp the head to the column. I can very easily return the head to within .001" of where is was before.

I have seen some really slick setups that combine a vertical rods and linear bearings to fashion a sort of guide to fix the head in one position.
 

DavidR8

Scrap maker
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
thanks, what should someone expect to pay for a used rong fu style mill drill?
Where are you located? Pricing is very regional.

I paid $1300 for my RF clone. But my market is extremely limited and accordingly prices are high. I passed on a used RF40, basically a geared head round column, that was for sale at $2600. There was a fellow on the island selling a Lagun clone for $8500. :eek:

I've since added a 3-axis DRO and I'm in the midst of switching to a 3 phase motor and VFD so I can have variable speed.
 

Dabbler

ersatz engineer
I've never owned a round column mill. I've seen 5 or 6 in other guys shops, and in every case they've bought another mill. Not disputing @David_R8 experiences. my observation is that they're great for doing what they do.

All my work is much bigger - the 9X49 is barely big enough for some of my projects, and I wonder if I should have bought the 10 X 50 for 2K$ more instead. Decisions, decisions!
 

thriller007

Well-Known Member
Ok thanks, changing gears here a bit is it even worth it to go from something like the combo machine I have to something like a king Canada 20vs or cx600. Also considering I have a small lathe as well?
I've never owned a round column mill. I've seen 5 or 6 in other guys shops, and in every case they've bought another mill. Not disputing @David_R8 experiences. my observation is that they're great for doing what they do.

All my work is much bigger - the 9X49 is barely big enough for some of my projects, and I wonder if I should have bought the 10 X 50 for 2K$ more instead. Decisions, decisions!
 

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thriller007

Well-Known Member
The only one I have seen come up is this column mill and all I can tell is it was from house of tools originally. I don’t have any actual work to do just learning.
 

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DavidR8

Scrap maker
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
I think that would be more capable than what you currently have.


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trlvn

Ultra Member
All my work is much bigger - the 9X49 is barely big enough for some of my projects, and I wonder if I should have bought the 10 X 50 for 2K$ more instead. Decisions, decisions!
The work you want to do makes a huge difference, obviously. If a guy wants to build scale models, a huge mill is going to be more liability than asset. @thriller007 what do you see yourself doing?

Craig
 

trlvn

Ultra Member
thanks, what should someone expect to pay for a used rong fu style mill drill?
There are a few models of RF mills. I believe the RF-20 & RF-25 are much smaller than the more-common RF-30.

Condition is a huge price driver. A little surface rust is no big deal. Damage, worn-out screws, loose quill or spindle would really drive the price down.

Accessories and tooling can be worth the price of the bare machine. Vise and other clamping stuff, collets, chucks, DRO, power feeds, yadda yadda. Then, of course, cutters. A single quality carbide end mill can be a pricey thing.

BTW, keep in mind how you are going to move the machine. I rented a lift-gate box truck for a day to retrieve mine. Maybe you already have access to a truck or trailer.

Craig
 

historicalarms

Ultra Member
Hmmmmm????? @David_R8 , @historicalarms Do you agree with that statement?

I have owned both a mini-mill and the RF 30 that I currently still own (exact same machine as the "House of Tools photo" $1200 new in Y2K or thereabouts), I do mostly agree with David, with a choise between the mini & the RF, the RF wins hands down. I did add a power feed to the long axis and consider that money well spent.
However they do have some shortfalls that come into play at time's. The two biggest to me are the belt speed changes and the fact that the head cant be tilted at all. The column locking mechanism has never been a problem for me. The shorter table travel than a bigger machine has its limitations but with a bit of forethought and judicious clamping arrangements this can usually be mitigated down to no problem at all.

All in all I would give my left nut to have a gear driven BP...but as my left nut is worthless & I don't have the cash....Ill happily use my RF 30...
 

DavidR8

Scrap maker
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
I’m mitigating the belt change by switching to a 3 phase motor and VFD.
Tilting head... well I suppose I’d have to build/buy an angle vise or something


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turner

Active Member
I as well have a RF30, if you have a good one available... buy it. Thought process is....its better than nothing!
A lot can be learned on this little machine while you abide your time learning what big machine would best suit your needs.
Re-selling the RF30 will not be a problem when you graduate from the bench top models.
Yes, I would have a RF45 in a heart beat...if one came my way. RF45 = square column.
Some day we will have a knee mill, but not so for today.
Todd T.
 
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